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Let's make a neck!

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by guitarbuilder, Aug 2, 2017.

  1. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I use a small triangular file to create a little v with a couple swipes on the fret slot. Somebody in another thread said this was a Dan Erlewine tip. Fretwire is extruded so it has a fillet ( fill -it) at the tang and bead intersection. This helps start the fret and also supposedly helps with chipping if you need to remove the fret. No pic of the file, but it is about 3 -4 inches long and not too wide. This is a couple with the v and a couple without the chamfer. The slot isn't really as wide as it looks.



    DSC05803.JPG
     
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  2. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    The last half of the neck required that the frets be installed with a hammer as it wouldn't fit under the arbor press. I make sure to pound with a real solid surface underneath so the hammer doesn't bounce.

    DSC05807.JPG


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  3. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    The front half of the neck can fit under the arbor press, so I switched to that method for those frets.


    DSC05811.JPG
     
  4. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I like to nip off the fret ends while the press is holding down the fret. I use stewmac nippers. These are really high quality cutters. I'd buy them again.


    DSC05813.JPG
     
  5. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    On the side of the neck that got hammered frets, I clamped a piece of wood down to keep the frets in place during nipping.


    DSC05812.JPG
     
  6. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    All the frets are in. Tomorrow I'll bevel and maybe glue the ends with some superglue.


    DSC05814.JPG
     
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  7. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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  8. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Fret ends filed flush to the side and beveled.


    DSC05816.JPG
     
  9. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    This is the small triangular file I used to chamfer the fret slots. I use it to knock off the sharp corners of where the fret bevel meets the fretboard edge. Those get sharp. Its a rolling motion of the wrist as you move from the front to back of the file. I didn't mention it, but I rolled the fretboard edges when I sanded the radius. Comfy.



    DSC05817.JPG
     
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  10. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    After the fret ends are rounded, I hit the whole edge with some abrasive by hand without a block, to get it all cleaned up.


    DSC05824.JPG
     
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  11. slick4772

    slick4772 Tele-Meister

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    I posted on the other forum - DIY Tool Shed - but I believe this forum gets more visitors so maybe someone here has experience. I'm gathering up my tools to take the plunge and build my first neck. I'm looking at the various tools necessary to level and dress frets. I saw that StewMac sells a "normal" fret end file for $15. They also sell a "concave fret end file" for $50. I'm wondering if anyone here has used the concave version and if it is worth the $35 premium. My question isn't necessarily if it's worth it, but rather does that file really provide additional functionality through that concave side. Also - does it do the job of the regular file PLUS the concave side or would I need both files to do the best and easiest job?
     
  12. slick4772

    slick4772 Tele-Meister

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    74B2552E-B6F9-4F0C-AFBA-2AF53EDAFF9F.jpeg Here’s a picture for reference.
     
  13. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I use this type which I bought years ago.



    http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tool...aping_and_crowning/Double-edge_Fret_File.html

    It came in two sizes with each side different, from mandolin wire to jumbo. I just use the jumbo side and use it with a rolling motion. I have the shorter gurian type files too, but I don't like the way it cuts or the resulting finish it leaves. I haven't found a need for anything else. If I had to try another, it would be a diamond version. The concave one looks pretty nice too and would fit all fretwire. It boils down to what you feel comfortable I guess.
     
  14. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Here is the neck attached to the box of the guitar.

    maple parlor 2.jpg

    maple parlor1.jpg
     
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  15. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Pretty much done with the neck and the guitar...I just need to glue the neck and bridge on, sand it all, and finish it, not in that order though..... I had to remove the back and mess with the arch along the length as it had a slight dip to it. I made a longer and wider version of my fretboard radius jig for that task, although with a really big radius. It worked well. but took me a while to get up the enthusiasm ( 2-3 weeks) for the redo. I should have been at this point a month ago.


    n1.jpg

    n2.jpg .





    I went with .060 cream binding as I didn't want a dark and light contrast to it. This meant ordering a new bearing for my binding rabbeting bit set. The binding came off of Ebay. I ended up buying the stewmac ABS weld- all cement and their suggested binding tape. Both were excellent and I'd recommend them.
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2018
  16. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Sweet!
     
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  17. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Part 4. How I make a tele neck model for my cnc machine.
     
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  18. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Last edited: Sep 27, 2018
  19. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Open the drawing in Rhino. Your line colors may vary as I've manipulated this a lot. ehawley drawing.JPG
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2018
  20. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I use the top view a lot and then bring in other lines from the other views. I get rid of the other two views and the frets for a while. I move it so the neck shaft is centered on the Y axis and the edge of the peghead is touching the X axis.


    necktut2.JPG
     
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