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Discussion in 'Stratocaster Discussion Forum' started by Ronkirn, Jul 1, 2008.
You're the king Ron. Nice build once again!
That's such a good description! It is inspiring to see people do things they love so masterfully. I hope one day to be able to play guitar as well as you build them, and make it look so easy!!
boy am I glad I checked in tonight! Beautiful.
Well.. Nothing too exciting….. I’m into the boring part… sand and squirt….. I have let the body sit for a few days so the lacquer would harden enough to sand without “loading up” the paper.
So, I sand… with 320..
sand thoroughly. . .
then, dust and check for anything I missed..
you can barely see at the edge an area that has not been touched by the sandpaper.
And here too. . .
while not hyper important, getting is all flat now makes the final sanding much easier..
Now simply go over any areas that need further attention, betting them all “blocked out”.. the process of sanding with a flat, very flat sanding block until the entire surface is evenly matte.
and the front…
Now, I begin spraying wet coats of lacquer…. I’ll spray several, wait a while, spray a few more, until I have about 5 good coats. Then I let it dry and harden for a day, check for coverage, and if any is needed, I’ll give it a few more coats, checking the overhead lighting’s reflections to verify the coat.
after which, it hangs for a few weeks…. Sorry… I don’t make the rules…. This is the same kinda stuff Leo used 50 years ago, and he had to let ‘em hang for a few weeks too…
I’ll fool around with the neck this weekend..
looks fantastic. waiting is hard, but with your builds, its definitely worth it!
Interesting build love this kind of thread.
Ron, help me understand. When you sand the color coats are you wet sanding? Also, do you sand between applications? On another note, do you begin to clear coat directly onto the "scuffed" color coats? Or does the color have to be "buffed out" so to speak? Sorry for all of the questions. Thanks.
I'll apply several good wet coats of clear.... then let it dry for a few days then dry sand with 320, 400, whatever is handy.... then resume clear, and continue applying until i feel it's had enough.
So I sand the raw wood... apply dye, lightly sand... apply sealer, several coats, then sand (all sanding is with dry paper about 320 grit) put down the color coats.. NO SANDING before going to clear... several coats of clear, sand again, few more coats of clear... no more sanding, finish spraying clear, let harden for a couple of weeks, wet sand, I go directly to 600, then 1000 grit... and polish. It's so easy an old fart like me could do it...
There's nothing easy about sanding. It's work. Lots and lots of work...
maybe a little advise.
let the sanding paper soak a day before you use it.
won't scratch and is stronger lasts longer
Yeah, soaking the paper is the norm, if using water. I use Mineral spirits, it's much faster cutting, but requires experience and familiarity to keep from cutting through the lacquer...
Gotta love that mahogany. Fantastic burst.
Is it getting a 'Hog neck, Ron?
Great work, Rob.
Obviously the lacquer you are using is better formulated than the rattle can stuff we others may use. I have to wait longer than you to sand, and I must use mineral spirits for virtually any stage I do sand, once the finishes start going on.
I have had some folks tell me mineral spirits leaves more residue than will the expensive naphtha or lighter fluid. My solution is to use partially used 800, 1000, 1200 paper as a sort of a tack cloth. Without more fluid applied, and yes these sheets still contain some spirits, but I can get a lot of the residue of the fluid, the "dust", debris from the sandpaper and so forth off the surface, and onto this tired sandpaper which was gonna be tossed anyway. In addition to clean cloths. A little loading of doomed paper is ok.
I guess the point of my comment is for years I've been afraid of sanding fluid residue acting as a release agent. I'm not gonna be afraid any more, I'm just gonna do my best to get off what I can.
maybe a bit off topic but did you ever used danish oil to?
i am trying to find out a way to colour the wood and than use danish oil.
(why, because i am alergic to most of the solvent (i think one calls it that way in englisch)that are used in todays finnish products)
Boris, I have never used naphtha, I find mineral spirits does the trick for me. But yes it does leave mere residue, this due to the speed with which it cuts.
If you want something a bit more manageable, try putting a drop or two of dishwashing liquid in a bottle or water and using that. The soap breaks down the surface tension. I’ll use that on some “power” techniques I haven’t shown, simply because is does not cut as fast.
Hopdy, I don’t typically venture into “off the wall” finishes, it’s a sure way to elicit gripes and complaints. If you’re allergic, try an automotive poly urethane. They’re as chemically inert when cured as possible.
You can color the wood, let it dry, and then clear coat it with the poly. But if you’re allergic, I would strongly urge you to have someone else do it. Breath a little of this stuff, and you could have a very bad day..
i know all about that so that is wy i was looking for another way
so this is where i am now
pine from an old bed with a top of oak floar pieces.
painted with black acryl hobby paint, washed in with thinner(don't know what you call it in english) sanded it littly than some gold powder wax rubbed onto than the danish
Hey pardner this ones looking "Real Sharp" indeed!
Hope all is well with you and the kin. I have been a fishin fool lately and Friday starts the official vacation (even though it actually started 2 months ago) so I will be an even bigger fishin fool.
Did you get the little surprise I sent ya? Scotty sent you a box of goodies as well.
Always a pleasure to see a new build thread from you Ron!
Here's tippin a glass of Glenmorangie Sherry Wood to you bro.
I got the stuff from Scotty, but I haven's seen anything else. I've been busier 'n a long tail cat in a room full of rockin' chairs...