because the EPA has put the clamp on sales of the product.
OK, time for the LONG "California lacquer" epistle:
I've been involved off-and-on with the South Coast Air Quality Management District in their review of the 3 primary paint-related rules: 1113, Architectural Coatings (primarily buildings), Rule 1107 (Metal parts and products) and Rule 1136, Wood finishing products. All these rules govern emissions of VOC's (Volatile Organic Compounds - sometimes worded as "content") during specific types of coatings application and is broken down by product type.
The EPA only handles enforcement - they have a model rule but California (especially the L.A. Basin, San Francisco and San Diego) generally has tighter locally-administered rules. From top to bottom in order of precedence are Local, State (CARB) and EPA rules/models. The rule numbers I gave are for the SCAQMD only - each District has its own numbering system.
Rule 1136 link: (link removed) )
This rule is VERY complicated and applies to production shops (Fender and G&L plus cabinet and furniture manufacturers - many of whom moved coatings operations and then all manufacturing to Mexico; it's part of the reason for Fender's Ensenada plant) down to individual applicators.
The rule is so complicated most regular paint stores do not understand it - and most of the regional and local manufacturers with stores, if they make lacquer at all, generally have a separate sales division that handles it (usually the industrial division that calls on OEM accounts - i.e. product manufacturers). Their store people usually have no or very limited education in lacquers and don't stock them except in a few aerosols.
The disconnect between divisions is so bad the store people will generally say "we can't sell it because of VOC regulations" - but ask them which one and you'll get a deer-in-the-headlights look. They won't special order laquers either.
One critical part of the rule concerns spray equipment and "transfer efficiency", or the percentage of coating that actually stays on the piece. Generally 66% transfer efficiency is required, and it's mandated to use electrostatic, HVLP spray equipment (the equipment with the highest percentage of units that meet the transfer efficiency requirement) and brush/roller/dip methods. There are a few specific exceptions based on lab test results (expensive!) - some high-pressure units and a couple of air-assisted airless systems.
One very important note - legally, any unit providing pressure in excess of 10psi is NOT AN HVLP! This really screws everyone up, as Harbor Freight, Home Depot and many others sell gravity guns as "HVLP" units - which they can the way the law works.
So you can be sold something using the right terms but that has the wrong specs for legal application. And this is ANOTHER part of the rule none of the paint stores (and certainly not the Mensa-candidates at Home Depot, nor the people at Harbor Freight who aren't paint people) comprehend.
An interesting part of the law is that applicators consuming less than one gallon per day are generally exempt from the product VOC restrictions and transfer efficiency parts of the rule, but the way its been interpreted (due to some conflicting paragraphs) the reality is you can apply up to one gallon (total) of lacquers and/or other products that exceed the limits set forth in the rule, but true HVLP (<10 psi) is the only acceptable HVLP equipment (OTOH the >40 psi guns can be used on certain Architectural applications and shop metal finishing, subject to compliance with other parts of the law.
Chances are nobody is going to cite you for spraying with a 40-50 psi unit at home, but SCAQMD and EPA inspectors HAVE chanced upon people spraying furniture in a paint shop or garage with such equipment, and if they could not supply recordkeeping showing less that a gallon a day application there have been citations written. The only occurrences those of us in the industry are aware of relate directly to the spray equipment used...not the coating, since it's hard for them to prove you used more than a gallon/day - but they CAN prove you used otherwise non-compliant equipment.
My suggestion in SoCal is for newbies to stick with ReRanch materials - you can get them no problem, they're easy to use and you do not have to worry about Rule 1136(generally!). For more experienced applicators Cardinal, Sherwin Williams (ask a store to contact one of the industrial sales reps - I work with Eric Anderson, who may be hard to reach as he's buried in large projects...but if you can get him he'll either help or find someone for you), order Stewmac or Mohawk/Behlen's (same thing), or go to an auto paint store - several of them also sell industrial lacquer coatings, but using auto-grade bulk acrylic/nitro lacquer sure as heck isn't a bad thing. Many of them can also tint custom colors (I think D'Angelos and Fountain Valley Paint might be good sources). There are others locally - most are small blenders and I don't keep track as they tend to come and go.
But forget buying from big-boxes or local paint stores - they flat will not understand the rule and will tell you no. Also - SOME out-of-state lacquer manufacturers will not sell to anyone in California because they THINK it's illegal to do so. You can try explaining it to 'em - heck, fax or email them this post, I don't mind.
Hope that gives a little insight - the materials are out there, you just have to work at finding them.
(FWIW I don't always use lacquer - sometimes I'll buy a fairly new aerosol line at Aaron Brothers (Montana Gold - wild stuff!), use ReRanch materials - but mostly I tint my own color coats using Breakthrough Gloss Industrial Enamel followed by whatever clear gloss lacquer I have on hand (and I NEVER have Deft or Watco - both brush-grade and far too slow-dry for me. The last couple relic jobs I posted were Krylon primer, Breakthrough (tinted with artist's acrylics) - one was some old Guardsman lacquer I'm using up before it goes bad, the other Ace Hardware aerosol (I was in a hurry - and it worked great!)
There ya' go!