Just started my first build (5E3)

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by TobyZ28, Jan 23, 2020.

  1. TobyZ28

    TobyZ28 Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    129
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2020
    Location:
    Vancouver
    Sounds good, think I'll drill a hole near the AC cable hole. Should be ok drilling slow and making sure it's lubed well... Chassis Is steel I think (tested with magnet). I don't think it's chromed, just polished ...
     
  2. TobyZ28

    TobyZ28 Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    129
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2020
    Location:
    Vancouver
    Just drilled some holes in the steel chassis for the ground - it actually went really smooth without any mess. A few tips for anyone who stumbles on this thread:
    • Use a hole punch so you're not wandering with the drill bit
    • Drill as slow as possible, heat will dull your tip - I went as slow as possible but pulsed it a little bit - this seemed to work great!
    • Any tip will drill steel just fine, some may last longer than others - for just a few holes you shouldn't need more than 1 bit!
    • You don't need a lot of pressure, a light steady pressure is more important as the bit should be doing the work.
    • Lubricate the bit! There are some fancy dancy lubricants you can buy for this that are like grease but have a lower melting point. Using oil will work but can be messy. I made my own "drilling lub" with 3 parts motor oil and 1 part marine grease - it worked amazing! If you're not sure if its lubed enough just add more (i dipped the bit in my mix every so often)
    • Use a larger bit on the holes by hand on both sides to take the sharp edges off
    • Prep the area just incase - painters tape is your friend!
     
  3. TobyZ28

    TobyZ28 Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    129
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2020
    Location:
    Vancouver
    Today's progress! This is a hellovalot of fun, sure hope I don't f' anything up on the way haha... Jumpers are solder to the lower part of the turrets. Tomorrow will be time to measure all the leads and solder the components down!
    20200125_000912.jpg 20200126_001153.jpg 20200126_013250.jpg 20200126_013226.jpg
     
    BigDaddy23 likes this.
  4. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    276
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2019
    Location:
    california
    Toby,
    Swap places! Put the bias cap next to the big filter cap. Have the caps touch each other, if you can. Put the bias resistor far away from the bias cap. The resistor is a source of heat. The leads to the resistor should have a nice bend so it. The leads will flex as it heats and cools. (caps too!)(from the pix I can't see if you have nice bends in the leads. If they do have a bend disregard my concern.)

    It is nice to see you keep the labels up so they can be read.
     
    King Fan likes this.
  5. Uncle Daddy

    Uncle Daddy Tele-Afflicted

    Posts:
    1,103
    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2015
    Location:
    Maldon, England
    On turrets with wires underneath the board, I like to push back enough outer covering and solder the inner to the top of the turrets from the front.
     
    TobyZ28 likes this.
  6. TobyZ28

    TobyZ28 Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    129
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2020
    Location:
    Vancouver
    Thanks for jumping on that - fortunately nothing soldered yet so still time to adjust! Is the worry here that heat from the resistor basically going to prematurely kill the caps(s)? I had assumed it would be ok after seeing this layout earlier in the thread. Is this what you were thinking of (the cathode bypass polarity is backwards in pic - haven't bent the leads the other way yet.):
    20200126_122828.jpg 20200126_122903.jpg
    If the heat is that significant should I consider attaching heat sinks like these to the far left of the resistor? (would shed it as far away from the caps as possible - these are almost exactly the width of the cement block resistor).
    20200126_123117.jpg
    Thanks for the speedy replies!
     
  7. TobyZ28

    TobyZ28 Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    129
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2020
    Location:
    Vancouver
    Thanks Uncle! I don't think the turret holes on my board would have enough room for the leads and the components through it but i'll use that technique if i can! I've drilled a couple of holes to route the leads from the Power Tube Grid leak resistors from the turret on top back down under the board...
     
  8. TobyZ28

    TobyZ28 Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    129
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2020
    Location:
    Vancouver
    What kind of MONSTER would put the labels on the other side?!!? ;):lol::lol::lol:
     
  9. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    276
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2019
    Location:
    california
    Yes. With the resistor near the end of the board it is less likely to heat the caps. No need for heat sinks.
     
    TobyZ28 likes this.
  10. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    276
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2019
    Location:
    california
    Monster amp repair. Main St. USA
     
    TobyZ28 likes this.
  11. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    276
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2019
    Location:
    california
    Not terribly important in a 5e3, but I use hi temp silicon goo to stick the caps to the board. Vibration- movement type reasons. Some use hot glue gun. I stick the bias cap on the first filter cap.
     
    King Fan and TobyZ28 like this.
  12. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    276
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2019
    Location:
    california
    You are using a ten watt bias resistor. The heat is spread over a large area.
     
    TobyZ28 likes this.
  13. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    276
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2019
    Location:
    california
    Try to use more of a bend rather than right angle when preparing the leads of caps and resistors. The parts need to be able to move with the heat/cold cycles providing a little less stress on the component.
     
    TobyZ28 likes this.
  14. King Fan

    King Fan Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    4,585
    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2013
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    Toby, did anyone mention all your e-caps on the board are upside down? (Maybe you caught it?) That would make a nice bang when you fired it up...

    It's great to look at build pics -- as long as you look at dozens *and* figure out if differences matter, and if so, which choices are best. If in doubt, use the Force...

    Rob_5e3_Updated_Layout copy.png
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2020
  15. TobyZ28

    TobyZ28 Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    129
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2020
    Location:
    Vancouver
    *facepalm* thank you from saving me from certain disaster! My head had it reversed - and i thought someone would have pointed it out with all the pictures so far if i had it backwards :|! lol
     
  16. The Ballzz

    The Ballzz Tele-Afflicted

    Age:
    64
    Posts:
    1,502
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2016
    Location:
    Las Vegas, NV
    @TobyZ28
    My sincerest apologies, as I never would have expected anyone to use my pics as an intended "layout!" I don't recall the exact reasons, but I do remember moving around the positions of a couple components, due to the turret board use causing a little bit of "crowding" near that end. It may have also had something to do with a more convenient way to arrange the power amp vs preamp ground busses!

    Definitely a great catch/call by @King Fan on those caps

    Build On!
    Gene
     
  17. TobyZ28

    TobyZ28 Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    129
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2020
    Location:
    Vancouver
    All is well! I managed to desolder and reattach everything without a hitch a few minutes ago (Used heat sinking where components were close). Fortunately a week or two ago I had been desoldering old PC power supplies mostly for practice (what a PITA!)- turns out desoldering is a very useful skill to have on tap when you really need it the most. However... my OCD is a bit bothered by the resistors bands facing the other direction... *breathes calmly*

    Please jump in if anyone spots any other "first timer" mistakes!
    20200127_095424.jpg 20200127_095429.jpg
     
  18. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    276
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2019
    Location:
    california
    The long yellow wire laced thru the board. (Connects to V2 pin 2.)

    The yellow wires.(connects to vol pots.)

    I thought your plans were to use shielded in these locations.
     
  19. TobyZ28

    TobyZ28 Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    129
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2020
    Location:
    Vancouver
    I only had plans to shield the two input jacks -> Preamp connections. I didn't realize that the volume pin 2 connection would have significant benefits as well. Is this something i should do for both normal and bright volume or just worry about the long run going through the board? I'm guessing the logical place to ground the shield would be to pin 1 on the corresponding pot?
     
  20. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    276
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2019
    Location:
    california
    I would shield the long run. The other two would be easy to do later if noise became a problem. The shield can mount to any ground. (Only one side of the shield is grounded.)
     
    TobyZ28 likes this.
IMPORTANT: Treat everyone here with respect, no matter how difficult!
No sex, drug, political, religion or hate discussion permitted here.


  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.