- Sep 13, 2008
- Lansing, MI
Pink? You mean violet?@printer2
doh! of course it was something simple and stupid of me. this makes a lot more sense now....
any help in understanding how these color codes are supposed to read?
Pink Red Pink Green? or is it Green Pink Red Pink? and what value is Pink?!? i dont know what end to start with with these old resistors
Pink? You mean violet?
Take those shades off there buddy.
OK, so what's the Rickenbacher vs Rickenbacker story? Doesn't seem to be acknowledged here:
On the same website that Printer2 linked to, there is another entry for Version 2 of the same amp. The schematic is very similar, uses 47 tubes, and shows a 200 ohm resistor for the center tap of the filament winding. 223 ohm is not that far off and from Jewellwoks photos it appears to be a wire wound resistor. In my experience, when a wire wound resistor goes bad, its goes open, i.e. it not longer conducts anything. I have never seen one drift. I am not saying they don't drift, just that I have never seen one.
Sorry, fools rush in -- I've been trying to ID in the photos the 'flat resistor' you mention. Did someone decode this text on the schematic from @printer2 ?
View attachment 1082416
FWIW, y'all will have sussed that the star / asterisk leads to this helpful suggestion: "see notes in manual."
Those wax coupling caps will have to go as they are surely leaky by now. All electrolytic capacitors will have to be replaced. All screen resistors should be tested and replaced if needed. Finally check the power supply resistors and bias components. Also check tubes. Don’t fire it up without a current limiter light bulb.I spent many hours looking up older amp schematics. The problem is I tend to forget where I saw the stuff and over the years links go dead. Glad that one was still going. I would guess whoever drew up the layout might have figured out the values.