Journey of my Bassman Micro build
- Thread starter joulupukki
- Start date
joulupukki
Tele-Meister
Not sure. The person I'm thinking of having them create the panels requires EPS or Corel Draw.
I'm not sure I follow. What do you mean?
KeithDavies 100
Tele-Meister
I feel woefully inadequate when I read these threads! These are just gorgeous. If I tried this it would have wonky corners and bits of sticky tape at the edges. We're in a rental house at the moment - just moved back to the UK - and I told my wife I want a workshop at our new place. I thought I'd have a go at some kit builds - guitar and amp. My wife thinks that's hilarious, which is not unreasonable! Anyway - following this with interest.
wangdaning
Tele-Meister
He means using a DPDT for the power switch and connecting both PT lines to it so neutral and hot switch at the same time.
Good work, I have been bashing my head over here to get a decent setup to do some cabinets. It has been really hard to get things delivered recently where I am and they do not have hardware supply places you can just go buy a power tools. Hopefully, by summer I can glue some stuff up and the two amps I have built can get a home.
joulupukki
Tele-Meister
Ah, I see. I would if I had one of those switches, but don't, so I'll go with just switching the load line.
Thanks. Yeah, I initially was going to build my cabs with just some biscuit joints and not bother with the finger joints but then a friend offered to let me borrow his router jig. I couldn't resist ... and went a little crazy building all these cabs. Good luck with your cab builds. Hopefully you'll be able to figure out something that'll suit them well. What amps did you build?
joulupukki
Tele-Meister
Alright. I think my panel designs are about ready for etching. The front panel I've gone over and triple-checked the measurements. The back panel I'm not sure about the spacing of everything, but I think it'll work. Does anyone spot any issues? I'm not planning to sell this commercially or anything, just want it to look good. It'll be etched on gold with black lettering. The red-colored lines will be cutouts.
wangdaning
Tele-Meister
Have a bassman and deluxe micro just hanging out naked
Will revive the threads when I have cabs and finality for them.
Hyakuya
Tele-Meister
Your NFB switch says BF6A... Shouldn't that be 5F6A.
andrewRneumann
Tele-Afflicted
I like BF6A. Sounds... bigger.
joulupukki
Tele-Meister
@Hyakuya great catch! I don't know what I was thinking. Glad I didn't hit that submit button yet. I'll get it fixed up. I've tried to triple/quadruple check everything, but here goes...
The contents of both panels are slid down a bit from what they'd normally be because the front and back panels of the amp head overlaps the top about 1/4". I'm not sure if this is how it's normally done, but that's how I built it. Hopefully the panels will work out well.
Glad I didn't hit that submit button yet. I'll get it fixed up. I've tried to triple/quadruple check everything, but here goes...The contents of both panels are slid down a bit from what they'd normally be because the front and back panels of the amp head overlaps the top about 1/4". I'm not sure if this is how it's normally done, but that's how I built it. Hopefully the panels will work out well.
joulupukki
Tele-Meister
I decided to go for a Marshall-style square pilot light. Is there any advantage one way or another 120V vs 6V?
120V:
www.amplifiedparts.com
6V:
www.amplifiedparts.com
120V:
Indicator Light - for Marshall, Red Square, 120V | Amplified Parts
Indicator light, square. 120 Volts. Measures: 0.47" Length x 0.47" Width x 0.09" Depth (3/8" mounting hole)
6V:
Indicator Light - Marshall, Red Square, 6V | Amplified Parts
Indicator Light - Marshall, Red Square, 6V - Indicator light, square. 6 Volts. Measures: 0.44" Length x 0.44" Width x 0.27" Depth
Nicko_Lps
Tele-Meister
Your amp is Marshall style so... The Marshall style light suits better aesthetically in your case
A small suggestion: I would place presence and Tonestack Grnd+NFB switches next to that pilot light and keep "Master" as far away possible from 120V light and On/Off switch plus have effects loop away from output jacks! Something like this:
joulupukki
Tele-Meister
Ah, interesting. Noise reduction strategy?
Nicko_Lps
Tele-Meister
They are AC sources so i guess that you will introduce hum to sensitive preamp-parts like your MASTER pot.
Is this change messing alot with your layout plan or potentially drilled chassis/faceplate? If it doesn't, id say don't risk having MASTER close to AC sources.
Alternatively you can wait until someone debunks this theory of mine!
In a modification ive made on my amp(PCB) when i added a pre-PI Master volume, to play it EXTRA safe i used Mogami 2330 to send signal to the pot and return it to the PI.
https://tubedepot.com/products/mogami-w2330-interconnect-wire
Your work is insane so far, hope ill see it till the end!
joulupukki
Tele-Meister
Gotcha. Well, the panels are made already so I will hope for the best. I do plan on using a number of RG174 shielded lines and I’ll experiment and see what happens. Thanks for the explanation.
joulupukki
Tele-Meister
What do most people do with the unused secondary wires of the 125B output transformer? Cover the ends with heat shrink tube and maybe zip tie them to the other wires so they don’t dangle around?
wangdaning
Tele-Meister
Yes, tie them off and isolate them. Your plan is right.
sds1
Friend of Leo's
These are nitpicks:
- remove the "Indicator" label (obvious)
- change "Preamp" to "Normal" (preamp describes both channels really)
Speaking of Bright/Normal -- with only one instrument input and no switch how do you select between them?
Nitpicking = brainstorming seems useful; a Bassman Micro is a bit tricky. So I'm just thinking out loud, not suggesting. For sure Indicator is redundant but does Marshall do it? Still, despite my long posts I'm not a fan of pointless ink.
For obvious reasons Rob has made the single input the original 'hi bright', but as the only channel, it might just be called Input or In. Likewise, I think Rob calls that pot 'Bright Volume' just to show how it came over from the full version; 'Volume' might work on the label.
As a detail, Rob's writeup has the option for a bright switch, but IIRC Rob also notes the stock bright cap value is pretty puny. Even more to the point, I don't know how attractive/useful the non-bright 'normal' channel would be, so how much a switch helps.
The amp also has two masters; one Rob labels on the pots as Preamp MV, the other as PI MV. I'm not sure what the most accurate and informative frontside labels would be.
For obvious reasons Rob has made the single input the original 'hi bright', but as the only channel, it might just be called Input or In. Likewise, I think Rob calls that pot 'Bright Volume' just to show how it came over from the full version; 'Volume' might work on the label.
As a detail, Rob's writeup has the option for a bright switch, but IIRC Rob also notes the stock bright cap value is pretty puny. Even more to the point, I don't know how attractive/useful the non-bright 'normal' channel would be, so how much a switch helps.
The amp also has two masters; one Rob labels on the pots as Preamp MV, the other as PI MV. I'm not sure what the most accurate and informative frontside labels would be.
joulupukki
Tele-Meister
Ok, perfect. Thank you.
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