Not sure. The person I'm thinking of having them create the panels requires EPS or Corel Draw.Looking good. Can't you export straight to PDF? Worked for me . I need to find a new panel maker with the gold option.
I'm not sure I follow. What do you mean?Might be just as easy to switch both live and neutral with your power switch.
I feel woefully inadequate when I read these threads! These are just gorgeous. If I tried this it would have wonky corners and bits of sticky tape at the edges. We're in a rental house at the moment - just moved back to the UK - and I told my wife I want a workshop at our new place. I thought I'd have a go at some kit builds - guitar and amp. My wife thinks that's hilarious, which is not unreasonable! Anyway - following this with interest.Burning the midnight oil today to wrap up the Bassman Micro amp head cabinet. I’ve gotta find some black screws for the handles and maybe some black screws for the back, but other than that it’s ready for whenever I can get the chassis put together.
Also, part of the electronics came today … and the rest should arrive tomorrow.
I documented most today’s steps in that Volley thread I linked to earlier in case you wanna see more details. But, here are a bunch of pics from today…
View attachment 984252 View attachment 984254 View attachment 984255 View attachment 984256 View attachment 984257 View attachment 984258 View attachment 984259 View attachment 984260
Here’s the two amp head cabs I’ve built. This one for the Bassman Micro and the British style 18w. I hope I can get the actual amps put together soon!
View attachment 984261
Oh, and the metal mesh is now installed on my 18w head as well (finally got some and took care of stapling it into both amps tonight).
View attachment 984262
He means using a DPDT for the power switch and connecting both PT lines to it so neutral and hot switch at the same time.I'm not sure I follow. What do you mean?
Ah, I see. I would if I had one of those switches, but don't, so I'll go with just switching the load line.He means using a DPDT for the power switch and connecting both PT lines to it so neutral and hot switch at the same time.
Thanks. Yeah, I initially was going to build my cabs with just some biscuit joints and not bother with the finger joints but then a friend offered to let me borrow his router jig. I couldn't resist ... and went a little crazy building all these cabs. Good luck with your cab builds. Hopefully you'll be able to figure out something that'll suit them well. What amps did you build?Good work, I have been bashing my head over here to get a decent setup to do some cabinets. It has been really hard to get things delivered recently where I am and they do not have hardware supply places you can just go buy a power tools. Hopefully, by summer I can glue some stuff up and the two amps I have built can get a home.
Your NFB switch says BF6A... Shouldn't that be 5F6A.Alright. I think my panel designs are about ready for etching. The front panel I've gone over and triple-checked the measurements. The back panel I'm not sure about the spacing of everything, but I think it'll work. Does anyone spot any issues? I'm not planning to sell this commercially or anything, just want it to look good. It'll be etched on gold with black lettering. The red-colored lines will be cutouts.
View attachment 985279
View attachment 985281
Your amp is Marshall style so... The Marshall style light suits better aesthetically in your caseI decided to go for a Marshall-style square pilot light. Is there any advantage one way or another 120V vs 6V?
Ah, interesting. Noise reduction strategy?A small suggestion: I would place presence and Tonestack Grnd+NFB switches next to that pilot light and keep "Master" as far away possible from 120V light and On/Off switch plus have effects loop away from output jacks! Something like this:
They are AC sources so i guess that you will introduce hum to sensitive preamp-parts like your MASTER pot.Ah, interesting. Noise reduction strategy?
These are nitpicks:Does anyone spot any issues?