Jigs using 80/20 T slot (1.5''x1.5")

I'm sure a real nice router/planer jig can be built using that stuff.

I used linear rails to build my latest one, but there are so many different fittings and accessories available for the 80-20 stuff that it would probably be easier and cheaper to use 80-20.

Especially if you already have a pile of the 80-20 extrusions on hand .

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You could also easily build a fret board radiusing jig with 80-20.

You'll need some of the bearings (first choice) or sliders (second choice) that run in the extrusion's channels to control and regulate the linear movement.


These may not be the exact bearings I'm talking about, but they are similar enough to give you an idea -

VGroove Bearings (vxb.com)



edit: If I had a pile of it, I'd find a way to incorporate some of it into the top surface of a work bench so you could have un-limited points for clamping or anchoring work pieces too.

Here's a place that offers lot's of fittings and accessories for a fair price -

TNUTZ



another edit: The extrusions will also work real well for building a side bending jig for bending acoustic guitar sides.

LMI sells a nice side bending jig that uses 80-20 stuff for it's adjustable parts.
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I made a planer jig for my router out of some: https://www.tdpri.com/threads/just-another-router-planer-jig-from-the-upper-midwest.977299/

Then I made a specialized version for necks: https://www.tdpri.com/threads/yak-shaving-rig.1029951/

 

The latest version of the Erlewine Neck Jig for setups and fretwork uses a decent amount of this stuff. You can find it on Stew-Mac's website. https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...ar-building-and-repair/erlewine-neck-jig.html

 

If I had a bunch of it, I'd also build a nice adjustable go-bar deck system with it .

Or, add a motor, two pulleys, and a couple of regular wheels and one contact wheel, and build yourself a nice 1-1/2"x60" or 2"x72" (any size you want) custom belt grinder.

The extrusion system is very versatile.

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Use one piece at the front and one piece at the back for edges - no counter-sinking.

A couple more pieces long enough to span from front to back and a few fittings - you've got a clamping system that covers the entire surface of your bench .

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Couldn't you just split it down the middle? I bet you could easily cut it on a table saw. (Although, I would probably get a non-ferrous metal saw blade if I was gonna do a lot of it)

 

A go-bar deck system is just an easier way of holding parts together while gluing, rather than using clamps.

Really handy for acoustic guitars where you have all the bracing and stuff that spans out across the width and length of the body where it would be difficult to get a clamp on it.

It uses thin dowels or strips of wood or fiberglass that you wedge into place between the glued parts which sit on the lower deck and the top deck.

Here's a pic of one sold by LMI -





If I had a bunch of the extrusions, I'd use some of them for the vertical members which could easily give some height adjustment between the two decks.

The "go-bars" are the rods or strips that you wedge in between the decks and your work piece


That skate board work sounds pretty interesting .

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Looks like all-terrain tires on that board ^^^ .

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That's right along the lines of what I was picturing.

You could also do more than just clamp with that or a similar configuration .

If you place two of the longer pieces of 80-20 in the right place or spacing, they could double as the "X" axis of a router planer jig.

The support pieces that would slide in them (and also attach to the two pieces that would form the "Y" axis) would need to be tall enough to clear the work-piece that you are planing, or whatever operation you might be performing.

If all the connections are firm enough, without slop, you could use a router/planer jig as a copier or duplicator, too.

Very doable - just keep the pieces stout enough so they don't flex, and the connections tight enough so there is a minimum of slop.


edit: You could make the planing (or whatever) jig so it's easily removable. That way you could clear the bench for regular work. One possibility would be to leave one end of extrusions open so you could slide a planing (or whatever ) jig in from the side.



Make some sketches of your design and prove it out on paper first, so you know it'll work .

I make at least as many mistakes as anyone, and probably more than most.

But on most of my projects, I'll sketch them out first, before I build them.

That gives me a chance to catch most of the mistakes before they become problems.

Folks like Leonardo Da Vinci, who was a incredible inventor, always sketched out their work before constructing the real thing. I've looked at a lot of his work , it just blows me away - that guy was a real, honest - to - goodness genius

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The way I think about naming the different axis' on a router/planer jig is pretty much like the way axis' are called out for a CNC or a manually controlled milling machine where the cutter can operate in three different planes or three dimensions or three axis'.

The longer path of horizontal travel, or "back and forth" is "X". This would be the lower set of linear rails or extrusions.

The shorter path of horizontal travel, or "from side to side" is "Y". This would be the upper set of linear rails or extrusions.

The path of vertical movement, or "up and down" which would be either the height adjustment or the plunging action for the routers cutting bit would be the "Z" axis.



If you look at the way this jig is built and setup, it might be a little clearer than I can explain it -

New and Improved Precision Router/Planer Jig | Telecaster Guitar Forum (tdpri.com)





Pretty much everything that goes on in the world takes place and happens in (at least ) three dimensions.

Everything we do when building a guitar, every operation, is done in three dimensions.

Even applying a finish is done in three dimensions - the finish has length, width, and depth .


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