Jig For Strap Button Holes?

[Beebe]

Anyone have one of these?

I'm envisioning something positioned using the bridge holes on a body with no hardware.

Something to make the drilling of these holes more enjoyable would be great.

 

[Telekarster]

I've never needed any such thing. Just a good, sharp, drill bit and a little tape on it to gauge the depth and run it by hand after dimpling the spot... screw in the screw and call it done

 

[Beebe]

I've never needed any such thing. Just a good, sharp, drill bit and a little tape on it to gauge the depth and run it by hand after dimpling the spot... screw in the screw and call it done

It's the positioning I find cumbersome.

Getting the centerline for the back one... I'm marking the middle of the center two string through holes and finding another center point to lay down a straight edge to find the center at the back.

And finding the center of the thickness with the body rollover... I'm laying the body on a flat table placing something flat on the top and measuring halfway up from the table to the flat object.

It's too much. How do I get accurate holes with fewer steps? Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.

 

[archetype]

I was writing this while @Beebe posted. I think the drill jig is an interesting idea for the reasons Beebe stated: it's the vertical and horizontal layout that's a bit of a pain. If the string holes are correctly located by the body maker, a jig that locates on those holes with a couple of pins would be groovy. At the other end of that would be two holes: one for a full-thickness body and one for a less-than-full-thickness body like the lower end Squiers.

 

[trev333]

how ever you do it... toss the puny screws that come with them and put a fatter /deeper screw into it...

it has to hold your guitar, after all..

 

[willietheweirdo]

I must confess I've boogered a body freehanding this...

Also, don't try doing the upper strap button with the neck attached (unless you have a low-profile drill and a shortened bit)!

 

[trev333]

I've done that, man...dohh.

 

[eallen]

I just marked the locations in my body periphery routing jig. Lay a square on to and mark down the edge. Go in the middle and stick an mark deep with an awl.

To keep the dril straight take I have a simple 1" or so wide block of 3/4" thick legs on top and bottom leaving a 1-3/4" gap between the legs and a hole the drill size middle. Stick the drill thru the hole & place it in the awl indent. Tap the drill to start the bit in the center. Push the block against the body and keep equal gap on any curvature side to side.

Eric

 

[tdoty]

I obviously don't put enough thought into this..............

 

[jkingma]

I'm pretty good at eyeballing it.

 

[RickyRicardo]

I drill small holes before routing the roundover. Easy.

 

[Beebe]

Thanks for all the ideas. My temporary solution is going to be using a scale print of the body drawing. Then at least all I'll have to do is line it up and measure to the center of the body thickness. ...a little bit more fun than my old way.

I sent the drawing that I downloaded from the site below to BlueprintsPrinting.com.

It shows the front strap location and a 10 deg screw angle, so bonus!

I ordered two prints on heavy 32# paper. Each print was around $2, but after a print set up charge of $8 and $13 for shipping it came out to more than I wanted to pay. I'm sure I could have acquired a print for less if I searched around or went with Office Depot or something like that.

I'll put one up on the wall in the shop!

Fender Telecaster Guitar Templates | Electric Herald

Printable templates for the Telecaster (Custom, Deluxe, Thinline). Routing guides for pickups, electronics, body cavities / f-holes, necks, and fretboards.

www.electricherald.com

 

[Beebe]

EDIT: Looks like it posted that last one twice. So I'm deleting this one.

 

[nnieman]

With all due respect you are over thinking it.
When I am making a body i anyways mark a center line - that gets sanded off before finishing.
Use that center line to mark your strap button.
Heck you could drill for a strap button before you do the final sanding & edge routing.


I actually prefer a tele strap button slightly higher than center line.
It hangs nicer on a strap - especially if it’s a light weight body.

Nathan

 

[Beebe]

With all due respect you are over thinking it.
When I am making a body i anyways mark a center line - that gets sanded off before finishing.
Use that center line to mark your strap button.
Heck you could drill for a strap button before you do the final sanding & edge routing.


I actually prefer a tele strap button slightly higher than center line.
It hangs nicer on a strap - especially if it’s a light weight body.

Nathan

I'm not making the bodies. And my supplier doesn't offer marks for strap buttons.

 

[Timbresmith1]

I'm not making the bodies. And my supplier doesn't offer marks for strap buttons.

You’re missing out

 

[adjason]

heck just put another tele on top of it and mark off of that- don't overthink it. You can make or buy a device that draws a line in the center of something but just measure it and call it done- heck if it looks right to your eye then its fine

 

[guitarbuilder]

You know a combination square can be adjusted to half the depth of a body. Then it's just a matter of deciding where you want it and those dimensions are found on the drawing I believe.

6 in. Combination Square

Amazing deals on this 6In Combination Square at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[RickyRicardo]

If someone is making the body I don't see why they can't drill the holes for you. This isn't rocket science. It's 7/8" from the the top or bottom in the center on the bridge side and the same on the upper bout. Why would you want a jig for that?

 

[stratisfied]

Seriously?