Jag build!

Discussion in 'Other T-Types and Partscasters' started by Matthias, Mar 2, 2019.

  1. Matthias

    Matthias Friend of Leo's

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    I thought I’d share progress on my Jag parts build!

    Spec so far is a lovely flamed 9.5” radius Classic Player neck with Kluson single line tuners and a PV string tree for a pretty old school look.

    The mute is a Fender, as is the trem and Mustang bridge, for which I added aluminium shims to compensate for the flatter radius. I have the stock trem from my JM on here at the mo, but might take the AVRI trem off that and put it on this. Knobs are some leftover from a Jazz Bass.

    The plates are Axesrus chromed steel jobs and the pickguard is a Musiclily parchment, which to me is a better nitrate guard colour than mint.

    The insides will be vintage-spec’d and multicolour cloth-wired. I have a set of Pure Vintage 65s ready to go in. Currently working out if I can improve on the grounding and shielding scheme. I got the same tone caps as Fender use but did some research and bought the same parts from a general electronics supplier so saved about £10 in total!

    I got a Squier body as they’re pretty good, but mine has a sloppy neck route with a 2mm Broadcaster-style lip and the general routing is a bit off 60s spec so a good pickguard/mute/bridge alignment isn’t possible without serious modification. So, I’ll pass this on and I’ve ordered a 2-piece alder vintage spec body that’s going to get sprayed in Nitro.

    Currently strung up from checking alignment etc. I’m in love with the colour scheme... It’s basically a ‘62 Strat look on a Jag, which looks unusual but authentic at the same time. I look forward to posting updates! :D
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  2. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity Vendor Member

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    Brilliant! I've always loved the Jaguar.... your's is looking superb

    rk
     
  3. Matthias

    Matthias Friend of Leo's

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    Thanks Ron. I’m hoping it turns out well. Certainly seemed worth getting a decent body for it... which the current Squier one would have been if the cavities were closer to spec.
     
  4. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity Vendor Member

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    They do that on purpose... it's just part of the deal.... :rolleyes: don't sweat it.. just remove the excess carefully and rock on..

    r
     
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  5. Matthias

    Matthias Friend of Leo's

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    I would if it wasn’t for the neck pocket (and therefore all the cavities) being routed a couple of mm to the left, leading to the big lip. If it was a Tele, I’d roll with it and celebrate my vintage accurate Broadcaster body :D
     
  6. Matthias

    Matthias Friend of Leo's

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    The better body arrived. A lovely piece of alder (well, two lovely pieces). I’ve done a hardware test, and in general everything fits great! The thimbles I have are a bit loose, one more than the other. That’s fine — I can tape those and it might be the modern thimbles rather than the body. The only other issues is that the diameter of the mute hole is about 0.2mm too narrow for the AVRI slug that I have. My inclination is to find something cylindrical that’s a hair smaller, wrap it in sand paper and sand the inside of the hole a little. No need to redrill, surely?

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  7. mistermikev

    mistermikev Tele-Holic

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    solid looking build.
     
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  8. Matthias

    Matthias Friend of Leo's

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    Just weighed the body. Bang on 4lb before a nitro finish. The (finished) basswood body is 5.2lb :eek:

    The neck is about 1lb with all hardware. I reckon this might end up on the light side for a Jag.
     
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  9. Matthias

    Matthias Friend of Leo's

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    After some research, my bridge thimbles are definitely smaller than US spec. Might get some proper AVRI ones. So the holes have actually been drilled a little on the tight side, which is the better way round.

    It also looks like a non-tapered, 1/2” hand reamer would be the best tool to finish off the mute slug hole. I know to both go in and come out clockwise with those, but would I use a straight or fluted one on wood for the best finish? Or as the slug is designed to move up and down, should I just sand it?
     
  10. Matthias

    Matthias Friend of Leo's

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    Oh, I think this has been moved to the wrong forum... It’s still a build in progress. Not even started on the many joys of Jag wiring. I wondered why no woodworkers had bitten yet on my last question :D
     
  11. 24 track

    24 track Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    Jags are my all time favourite , hands down ,I've owned2 early 60's jags and between that and letting my 65 BF super and my 60's BF bassman 50 ,I regret it it to this day , nice work and a n excellant project ( now only if they came in lefty in the 60's .........sigh!)


    my brother playing mine inj 70'

    K2.jpg
     
  12. Matthias

    Matthias Friend of Leo's

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    So, I used various tubular objects and some 40 and 80 grit sandpaper to carefully enlarge the mute hole. Took two hours. It now goes in fine and it’s still just about circular! A tip for anyone trying this is to test fit the plunger upside down so you can use a screwdriver to pry it out again! The body is a copy of a 66 down to the router marks... you can see in the pic that the plunger sits well below the body. This is because although the AVRI springs have the same relative tension, they’re about 10-11mm shorter than the vintage springs! I would be interested to see exactly how deep the AVRIs are drilled.

    2218A88C-00B9-48AE-932F-34C8001A34D3.jpeg

    I also cleaned up the cavities and wiring channels, which to be fair we’re already very clean already. However, I like them to be tidy on the inside!

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    Ready to get sent off to get painted, I reckon. Unless, that is, there are any screw holes that would be good to drill before finishing... The jag has so many... But I have always been under the impression it’s best to paint with as few holes as possible, and just drill very carefully once done.
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2019
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  13. Matthias

    Matthias Friend of Leo's

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    Small update. Finally got the body in the post today to get painted in nitro Olympic White. I also got the bridge cover and AVRI trem.

    That means the spec stands at:

    - MiM flame maple classic player 9.5” radius neck
    - nitro Olympic White 2-piece alder body modelled after a real ‘66 Fender (Guitarbuild.co.uk)
    - Pure Vintage 65 pickups
    - AVRI trem, mute and bridge cover
    - Nickel Kluson Deluxe single line tuners
    - Pure vintage string tree
    - Chromed steel plates
    - Mustang bridge (shimmed)
    - vintage spec wiring, including multi-coloured cloth wire, ceramic disc capacitors and NOS Allen Bradley treble bleed resistor
    - sheet copper for shielding plates

    For the colour/radius/spec combo I think I’m getting decent value. I could probably get 2/3 back on this without parting it out.

    Now, I still have that Squier body I didn’t like, and loads of other spare parts... I’m wondering if I go for a Jagmaster side project... :eek:
     
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  14. Matthias

    Matthias Friend of Leo's

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    BTW, can anyone please move this to either the depot or other instruments?... I stuck it in the wrong forum!
     
  15. Matthias

    Matthias Friend of Leo's

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    A7C0FF88-A2D6-4FE2-9769-688EB435C2B9.jpeg Of course, having a spare body of the right colour means I can do a mock-up with the completed chrome stash. Full metal Jaguar! Also, here’s a comparison of conditioned pao ferro (“lemon” oil) vs rosewood. I find MiM fretboards are universally bone dry. I’ve done about 7 applications on this since I got it a few months ago... It’s really that thirsty. I got the neck out of its box today and it looked as dry as when I first got it.

    The colour isn’t bad. I used to have an SG Special about 20 years ago that had a fretboard this pale. That was very closed grain too... It makes me wonder if Gibson was experimenting with other types of “rosewood” back then.
     
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  16. Matthias

    Matthias Friend of Leo's

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    Not much to do while the body is away, so smoothed the fretboard edges. They were quite sharp and even a little ragged where the finish was taped.

    I tried the screwdriver edge trick to roll them, but it struck me there was too much chance of lifting the finish. So instead, I used one of those 4-stage nail buffers. It did a great job! Feels like a much more expensive neck now with minimal reshaping.

    I also ordered a couple of types of solder tags. The vintage Jags use tags that goes between the plate and the switches, held on by the screw, to ground the lead and rhythm plates. Anything that saves untidy blobs of solder is good by me. As my copper plate is thin, I’m going to screw the grounds to the plates rather than solder. Once I’ve got those, I’m going to pre-wire the control plates. After I soldered a ton of LEDs for a project, I should be a bit tidier than I used to be... Hopefully :D
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2019
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  17. john kleeman

    john kleeman Tele-Holic

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    My '96 WM 45 has a Pao ferro bridge and fingerboard, so we know they had some in the Montana factory at least. The Jag is really looking great!
     
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  18. Matthias

    Matthias Friend of Leo's

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    I was talking to my dad, who’s a decent electrician, about this project and decided to show him the wiring schematic for one of these. It took him a while to work it out! It took me a while when I first saw it... It’s quite a clever design.

    Hopefully I’ll get time to start working on the wiring subassemblies on Monday. I think the key is to have patience and focus on one at a time. And test continuity on everything as I go!
     
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  19. Matthias

    Matthias Friend of Leo's

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    Let’s make spaghetti!
     
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  20. Matthias

    Matthias Friend of Leo's

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    All's going well... Except I broke a lug on a mini pot. When I bent it out to make room for other wires I could feel bending it back might not succeed... And it didn't. So a new one's ordered. My solder joints still aren't the shiniest they could be, but I have got better over the years and they're reasonably neat. They're hidden under that multicoloured heat shrink so out of sight, out of mind... But unfortunately out of a multimeter's reach!
     
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