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Discussion in 'Telecaster Discussion Forum' started by alexlpak, Jun 5, 2016.
Most of the time, your gut feeling is the best indicator.
OP don't be afraid to ask again, 99% of forum members are happy to help if they can
You could also look at the 12th fret dot spacing which is too wide
Fenders are so cheap today, should be inexpensive enough to go to GC, SA or Sweetwater.
Yes, this is "some type of buyer protection site". It's an excellent place to ask about these kinds of things by the experts here - and yes, I'd consider these people to be experts.
Also, I am not an expert, but the decal placement looks a little weird - too close to the tuning keys?
You from the Fender forums bro? That's the kind of unhelpful, unfriendly BS that usually gets passed around there. Be nice to people, and they'll be nice back.
Well, yeah, but hh does kind of have a point, which is that it's pretty important to know your cheezwhiz before you jump into the treacherous waters of buying used Fenders. I don't object to people coming on and asking about stuff like this; they can be fun and useful threads. But it's also true that often the advice you get is worth what you paid for it. ;-) I know mine is!
It's always helpful to be detailed about what is incorrect. If someone just write "FAKE!", the buyer won't know what to look for next time. It's nice to know what points are incorrect and what they should be.
In this case I see a decal that is too close to the tuners, an incorrect font for "Telecaster" (too bold), the "Fender" should be silver instead of gold I'm pretty sure. As mentioned the saddles look like old 80s Japanese hardware. They should be either bent steel or those big block saddles - not a six-barrel set up (also how could that possibly be intonated correctly the way those are set up?). Pretty sure it should only have one string tree, which should not be a butterfly style, but instead one of those that looks like a little rolling pin. Last thing I see is the plastic insert in the truss rod adjustment.
There are a bazillion permutations of "USA Telecaster" but the giveaways are usually that the fakes are likely to have that Asian bridge, bad logo placement/font, and the ubiquitous plastic truss rod insert.
It wasn't like the OP was clueless, he was "uncertain and very skeptical". He just wanted confirmation and used his noggin to get a second opinion, (nothing wrong with that).
Anyway a full is of what is wrong with this item:
Decay placement iffy
Decal font wrong and looks blury
string trees look too close together
Black plastic surround at the truss rod access
12 dot marker spacing is too wide
neck pickup is mounted to the pickguard not the body
bridge misplaced too close to the pickguard (probably trying to match up a modern bridge to string thru holes for a vintage bridge layout)
bridge is an obvious import type with those saddles
the pickguard doesn't lay flat (look near the bridge)
on top of that it looks like it's never been set up before, neck pickup is really (higher than the fret board), the saddles are all over the place.
One more thing, what the hell is that,
Big circular stain right in the body under the bridge? I thought it was a cluster of dead pickels or dirt on my screen then but enlarged it and yes it is a big mark on the body.
To be fair there was a lot wrong with this guitar for there to be any doubt about this guitars genuineness but saying that I also think this is the best way to learn what to look out for. I've learnt from these threads, not through posting myself but just by watching the ones that pop up and I think it's a useful thing to learn.
I can't add much to the fake/real discussion, but I am pretty sure that circle you are looking at is the reflection of a hanging light fixture.
looks like a sticker that was left on for a long time
I'd agree with Bones, I don't think you'd get the light fitting reflection in that light with that lighting maybe I'm wrong but oh well, it'll be the smallest problem that the poor buyer will have.
Wow, I'm loving these posts as I'm realizing the number of fakes out there today. Although I've been playing Fender's for decades I'm not sure I would easily spot the fakes.
Thanks to all the contributors here!
I suggest for a rookie fake-spotter it should be the first thing they see. Fakes almost always have a plastic insert or none at all. Other signs such as logo placement/fonts, dot spacings etc. can be confusing but the truss rod slot insert is straightforward. Of course if the walnut insert is there, then you start looking for other red flags.
I knew nothing about fakes until I spent time here and over on Strat Talk. The wealth of information and the amazing attitude of those willing to share is mind blowing.
Yeah, we do seem to serve that function.
Despite how off the hook this one is, I worry that we are monitored and that we provide guidance to would be counterfeiters and they use our insights to hone their skills. Some of these outfits are doing some scary accurate fakes.
Sometimes I wonder if there isn't some way to cajole new posters to come here and contribute - and not wait until they're tempted to buy a sketchy guitar. The Best way to buy these guitars is to acquire more knowledge in advance. Suppose the guitar IS real and you're waiting for confirmation and some lurker buys the guitar out from under the new guy? It has happened before.
Well, it's a fake Fender, but a real partscaster. If you like it and it plays well, it's not the worse thing in the world. I would estimate the cost of the parts at around $200; if you can pick it up for around $100, why the heck not? If they're representing it as a real one, with a price over 200, well then, I might even think about rattin' 'em out to someone. Call Fender maybe.
When we cross the line into fakes that are indistinguishable even by experts, is that what they call "The Singularity"?
This forum has the accumulated experience of some of the real experts on Telecasters from all over the world and I would trust their judgement implicitly.
The seller himself may have been burned and doesn't know he has a fake. Or he bought it found out it's a fake and is trying to pass his loss on to you.
If that isn't the best buyer protection I don't know what would be.
I don't mind partscasters and I suppose that's what we will call what I have assembled until I awaken one day to find I have been transformed into the finest assembler in the World by some supernatural turn of events. :^)
But I make a point of just refusing to bid on, buy, accept in trade, review, play, or even accept as a gift, a guitar with a counterfeit brand decal on it. Anyone who wants to deal in these things needs to remove every trace of false branding - then and only then IMO does a guitar even get plugged in by me. Discussion of their value until they are cleansed of all the fakey ID stuff is purely hypothetical.
If I found such a guitar in a ditch, abandoned, I might get out the sandpaper and take every bit of "filth" off of it. Then I'd inspect it - and maybe throw it back in the ditch. :^)