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Is there room for another Thinline P90 build? ;)

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by sergiomajluf, Nov 2, 2015.

  1. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    I finally man'd up to glue the binding. I confess in the meantime reading +150 pages of the "emeraldcaster" post, while figuring out if I wanted to sand the binding or not.... For the record, if there's any gloss coat on, sand away!

    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1454964733.112920.jpg

    I still need to figure out how I'll take the headless bridge screw (second from right).

    Bonus points for finding the hidden cartoon character beneath
     
  2. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    It seems that a build is not complete until you strip the finish a few times into bare wood.

    Using a lot of CA can get messy. I could have tried to be more careful but wanted to ensure a better adhesion instead of tidiness I could clean later
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    This wasn't that bad, but still needed cleaning.
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    And after cleaning surface was even more flat
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    There's a balance with binding: how deep is the channel cut to have a flush binding to begin with, vs how much work you are willing to do to level and clean up
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    I was a bit ambitious as to try to keep most of the binding and thus routed a deep channel. There are a few spots where the plastic is below the surface of the wood. I still need to keep sanding so it's not gonna be a problem, but my next one will certainly be a bit shallower so there's binding to scrape all around the body.

    Regarding taller binding than body, scrape, don't cut. You are welcome :D
    [​IMG]


    Finally, work in steps. That is, don't start and finish a certain spot and then move on. Do the opposite. Do all coarse contour first. Then move onto cleaning all around a bit more, then finally do the finer details. That way you won't go too much on a specific place.
    [​IMG]

    BTW, the broken bridge screw I posted on this other thread is out :)
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2016
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  3. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    Electrosocket hole

    Next I drilled for the electrosocket.
    [​IMG]

    When I opted for this instead of the tradicional flat jack plate, I didn't think about how to match the cilindrical part into a curved body. I just worried about having the proper drill bit. Couldn't find a 22m forstner bit, but did have a 7/8 flat bit... almost the same.
    [​IMG]

    Nice!
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    You see, if you just drill the hole, the socket will protrude on the horizontal axis, will sitting flat only at two points of the body curve
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    My first thought was to countersink it, so placed some masking tape, traced how much I'd have to take out
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    and then dremel away
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    This doesn't fix the issue. It just moves it a few mm into the body. So I had to deform the inner rim a little bit.
    [​IMG]

    What this does is counteract the contour of the guitar, giving the electrosocket a flat wall to sit into. Not perfect, but works
    [​IMG]
     
  4. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    Shellac is building up again, and I'm done for tonight

    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1455076659.329430.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1455076754.640972.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1455076714.034365.jpg

    Will I ever fill that grain?
     
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  5. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    Wet sanding after shellac

    Shellac dries really fast, but I let it sit overnight and started block/wet sanding. I've applied it with a soaked rag
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    I used from 400, 600 and 650. Nothing magic about the numbers, its just what I had.
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    I did sand through a few spots –*no pic. A little brush with more shellac quickly fixed that.

    Then, a little more with 1200 and we got shine and reflection!
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    WOW, I loved working with shellac (I've read it's also dubbed French polish). Before sanding, it just seemed a nice sealer, but to this point this could very well be a finished body.

    But I already set my mind on doing lacquer over it. I went for water based lacquer. I could have gone with "Duco", or pyroxylin or nitro which all seem to be the same, but let's not have nasty fumes at home this time
    [​IMG]

    It's weird how white, milky this lacquer is. Never used it before, but on same scraps I've been shellacquing it went ok and transparent, so off to the sanded body. Instructions on the can call for a brush and I can't spray here.

    Instead of that I kept my previous approach, but instead of using a simple rag, I prepared this applicator, a pantyhose stuffed with cotton waste. How do you call this in english? In spanish it's called "muñequilla" (from muñeca - wrist)
    [​IMG]

    I quickly regretted masking the sides, so removed it, and did the whole guitar, top, bottom and sides with a few, maybe three or four passes. That will be lacquer coat number 1.

    I'll let her cure for a few days, repeat the sanding until flat matte, and do a second hand.
     
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  6. Arch Stanton

    Arch Stanton Tele-Meister

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    I'm really loving this guitar Sergio ;}
     
  7. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    Thanks Arch!

    This is were I left
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    not too shabby...

    So I sanded some more, 600 grit again
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    It feels like if I keep sanding up to 1200 it would shine, but I want a thick lacquer coat, the kind you get after the spray wet coat. Would that be possible without spray equipment?

    Let's figure out, and warning, I'm about to do something really stupid.... or genius
    [​IMG]
     
  8. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    so far, not so much stupid...

    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1455504057.130754.jpg
     
  9. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    About 14 hours later, lacquer is transparent, of course dry to the touch, but very flexible still.

    I took the masking tape off to clean the blobs while still fresh, so when later on I let the lacquer cure it will harden as flat as possible before final sanding.

    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1455551950.832013.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1455551966.306364.jpg

    yep, it looks bad, although not as bad as in the photos. As if I was cleaning binding scraps, I contoured every edge with a fresh black olfa blade, and got to this.

    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1455552048.864467.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1455552064.087553.jpg

    I get that the better result you have at each step, the easier the next one. I'll have to wet sand a lot to even out the surface, but there's enough lacquer in there to afford that.

    If I get a spray gun in the following week can I just spray over this or should I sand flat again and start over?
     
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  10. R. Stratenstein

    R. Stratenstein Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Sergio, what a fascinating build. Awesome CNC machine you've got there!
    Elegant is the word that comes to mind when seeing photos of the later stages of your guitar !

    As far as the finish applicator pad, "application pad" is what I've always heard it called, but apparently has several names in several languages--from Wikipedia:

    "The rubbing pad is made of absorbent cotton or wool cloth wadding inside a square piece of fabric (usually soft cotton cloth) and is commonly referred to as a fad,[1] also called a rubber,[2] tampon,[2] or muñeca, Spanish for "rag doll".[3]"

    Regarding the finish now, most of the people on the forum who have used water based lacquer have found that it does not have the same "burn-in" capabilities that solvent based lacquer does. Water based lacquer, when level sanded ,can leave witness lines between the coats, which does not happen with solvent lacquer. For that reason, my advice would be to sand the current surface level, and carefully review what your lacquer manufacturers instructions are regarding burn in. With water base, it seems to have time limits, beyond which it has little, or no burn-in ability. Spray and sand within the burn-in limits to avoid witness line and other problems.

    Can't wait to hear this one sing!
     
  11. Zepfan

    Zepfan Doctor of Teleocity Gold Supporter

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    Lookin' good.
     
  12. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    Thanks!!! didn't know about differences in burn in ability.

    They recommend 1 or 2 hours of dry time at 20 degrees Celcious before sanding. Also they suggest sanding with 360 grit between each coat, cross brushing, and doing at least 4 coats.

    Because of my stupid/genius thick coat, I wanted to wait at least a week before sanding. It's a dry hot summer down here. But maybe I'll follow your advise and sand it level this afternoon when the heat comes down a bit. I'll go my standard, 400, 650, and 1200, 2500 if it feels worthy

    If I hit the lacquer with my fingernail it feels a bit elastic, but it doesn't leave a mark, so it is kind of dry.

    If all fails, we'll see

    Again thanks all for your comments!
     
  13. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1455657697.467201.jpg
    level, flat and hazy again :)

    this was the first stroke after the lacquer pool from a few days ago
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1455657732.964722.jpg

    and then some help arrived... she securing her inheritance hahaha
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1455657774.718534.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1455657845.318957.jpg
    In need to fix this shiny traces around the border, and this unfortunate burn through :( but wow what a learning experience this has been!
     
  14. DannyJustQuit

    DannyJustQuit Tele-Meister

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    Love this guitar!
     
  15. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1456093817.135557.jpg
    It couldn't wait to have its own, so this Thinline borrowed a1997 American Standard Strat neck.

    Electronics are soldered and working, maybe a bit hissy, but working.

    If I can manage to fit these ferrules without hurting myself or the guitar, will be close to done
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1456094002.693883.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2016
  16. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    Last edited: Feb 26, 2016
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  17. Zepfan

    Zepfan Doctor of Teleocity Gold Supporter

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    Sounds very good.
     
  18. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    [​IMG]
    I got to play my new Thinline in front of ~140 people today. I first showed the incoming undergrads the whole building process, then I played. Magic moment :)
     
  19. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Nice!
     
  20. oldrebel

    oldrebel Friend of Leo's

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    That looks great!!
     
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