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Is there room for another Thinline P90 build? ;)

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by sergiomajluf, Nov 2, 2015.

  1. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    Then onto neck fabrication.
    This is what has gone worst for my process. Flipping the stock after the 2.5D or 3D processing didn't work as it did before for a flat cut.

    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452632097.974103.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452632139.532374.jpg

    I don't have pictures of the run from the other side, but the idea was to carve the fretboard radius, thin the headstock height, and finally cut the profile.

    That last part didn't work and this is what came out of it once I took it off the table
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452632174.747778.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452632187.856810.jpg

    And then it got loose
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452632230.996809.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452632302.612597.jpg

    I wish it did work, but I also realized that a single piece neck would not work with the double action truss rod I bought, sonIll have to change strategy anyway and do a two piece neck (maple neck, maple
    fretboard?)
     
  2. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    I moved onto prepping body blank.
    Cut into half, cleaned side cut to have a straight edge, using a table saw
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452632704.531790.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452632716.446648.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452632730.248298.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452632744.553582.jpg

    Sides didn't come out clean, so of course I'll go over the top and use the CNC to clean the edges.

    I'll add a 1cm maple strip separating both pieces to have a light wood center spine.

    The top, on the other hand, will have a wider maple strip around 7cm, and a thin 1mm jatoba centerline.
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452633293.994319.jpg
     
  3. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    This is what I did a few months ago. I cut the truss rod slot and then flipped it over. I cut the perimeter of the neck back facing up. I then carve the neck and rout/drill tuner holes . Then I glue on the slotted fretboard, set it back up and do the peghead thickness and transition. It works pretty well that way. I did (6) 2 piece necks leaving about 1/16" uncarved near where the fretboard surface to hold it into the waste.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Tele-Explorer

    Tele-Explorer TDPRI Member

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    Fantastic!!!
     
  5. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    Thanks @guitarbuilder!
    How/where did you keep the necks from falling away? Is it from the heel? Does it hold well enough to keep the piece from moving when you do the peghead thickness?
     
  6. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    When carving the neck, I restrict the carve depth so that it only goes down about 5/8-11/16" of the 6/8 thickness of wood. That means it still is attached all the way around to the waste. Then I cut it out with a utility knife and then scrape off the remainder.
     
  7. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    Great tips! will do that soon, meanwhile...

    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452710093.925672.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452710105.963777.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452710129.558924.jpg

    and because we all love clamps, big and small...
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452710155.856264.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452710178.633365.jpg
     
  8. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    Had little time today, but enough to glue the top, and prepare for the big CNC run tomorrow routing the body

    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452816182.494719.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452816195.396995.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452816208.088833.jpg
     
  9. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

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    Looking good.... I've got a couple thin line styles going my self. I had telenator chime in on one of my threads talking about not routing out the small cavity under the bridge and leaving it solid. He said he found that the guitar projected it's sound better when that part remained solid. I've yet to finish mine but I have 1 with that cavity routed and one without to see if this is true. (probably won't be able to tell, but who knows) Anyway another reason to leave that un-routed is that you'd be able to put a bigsby on there no problem.... just some food for thought.
    Anyone else go an opinion on what material to remove on a thinline and what should not be removed?
     
  10. Telenator

    Telenator Doctor of Teleocity Vendor Member

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    I find that Thinlines are the most challenging of all Teles to get a good sound from.
    I would leave as much of the lower bout solid as possible and remove the bulk of the wood from the upper body around the neck and down to the waist of the guitar. My experience is that having a good wood mass around the bridge helps the sound, and that it doesn't matter as much when it's chambered in the upper bout.

    The other factor is, weight bias. The further back you keep the body the solid, the better chance you'll have that the guitar will balance properly on a strap and not be prone to neck-dive.
     
  11. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    Thanks for the feedback! I'll definitely take that into account. Today I routed most of the body onto a spare MDF, as a detailed and final test before using real tonewood, and will pay attention to body balance.

    The good thing is that the precision you get with the CNC is amazing.


    It was also a day of mistakes :(

    I took the weight off the top, shown in previous pics, but I forgot to take one of the side clamps because turned my attention elsewhere. Result? a very aggressive arch top.

    I'm trying to fix it, put some water into it, added weight on top and will let it rest over the weekend.

    At least I got to see how it might look after a clear coat finish
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452897051.806274.jpg
     
  12. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    Here are some shots for the day.

    After the cavities where hollowed I flipped the stock and drilled neck and string holes:
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452897263.878640.jpg

    Then routed wider holes for the ferrules, and a small cavity on each so they sit flush with the body:
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1452897274.550832.jpg

    This also let me test how snug they fit. Next I'll post some measurements, because had a hard time finding good ones for the All Parts ferrules. Will also post my routing strategy, as it might help future newbies like my present self.
     
  13. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    so this happened today
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1453231223.766588.jpg

    which led to this
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1453231246.397214.jpg

    and this
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1453231265.835978.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1453231281.613994.jpg
     
    nickhofen likes this.
  14. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1453231332.236850.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1453231359.283014.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1453231386.865400.jpg

    note traditionalists: strat failed neck is just a proxy. Tele neck on the way
     
  15. adirondak5

    adirondak5 Wood Hoarder Extraordinaire

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    Nice !
     
  16. Zepfan

    Zepfan Doctor of Teleocity Gold Supporter

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    That's going to look great.
     
  17. DannyJustQuit

    DannyJustQuit Tele-Meister

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    You should start a television series!! I could watch this stuff all day long!
     
  18. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    Holy Smokes Batman!

    what a beautiful grain is emerging
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1453320204.372656.jpg
     
  19. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1453321564.411048.jpg
     
  20. sergiomajluf

    sergiomajluf Tele-Meister

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    done for today!
    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1453325604.432276.jpg

    coming up next, glueing the top, some more routing :)
     
    nickhofen likes this.
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