Is there any way to make this go away?

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by slick4772, Oct 8, 2021.

  1. slick4772

    slick4772 Tele-Meister

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    I bought an Epiphone worn finish Casino because I didn’t want the thick poly finish on the non-worn ones. I had visions of refinishing with nitro. This particular guitar was olive green. I’m quite sure the body is covered with a thin veneer. Worst case I’ll refinish an opaque color - but if I wanted a natural maple look could I -

    1. Keep sanding and hope it goes away without going through the wood?
    2. Fill with a maple tinted grain filler to cover the green
    3. Apply a piece of veneer

    I appreciate any thoughts.
     

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  2. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Poster Extraordinaire

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    Almost all semi hollows are laminated plates and sides. The usual thickness is about 1/8 inch meaning that the the plies are around 40 thou, sometimes the center is thicker and the veneers are thinner. That doesn't give you much to sand. The other problem of course is that poly finishes are notoriously difficult to remove - chemical strippers don't work. Bottom line is that a refinish is very difficult.

    None of you options is very good - if you keep sanding you will go thru the outer ply. There is no such thing as "maple tinted grain filler" that will cover the green. And trying to veneer the curved surface, deal with the binding and f holes and neck fitment will be a nightmare. My humble opinion, cut your losses and finish it in a nice opaque color that will hide what you have. If you are lucky the grain figure might show thru the finish and look OK. Nitro is a viable options.
     
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  3. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Friend of Leo's

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    ^^^^
    +1
    You might be able to use the accentuated grain pattern that is developing by using a wash or translucent finish. Other than that, go with a solid color.
     
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  4. NoTeleBob

    NoTeleBob Friend of Leo's

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    Yep. You won't get the bare wood look without sanding through the veneer or at least dangerously close to it.

    You could have something interesting by sanding it all like the rear, leaving the green in the deep grain. Leave as is and finish clear.

    Or restain a deep color so the dark green color goes close to black and looks like intentional grain.
     
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  5. Boreas

    Boreas Poster Extraordinaire

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    ^^^^^^^^^^^
    First I would try sanding the dark edges that remain (to match the center) and see if you like the look of the dark grain on the maple. It may just begin to strike you as interesting and unique. I think it looks pretty cool. Then just throw a clear or olive tint finish (perhaps even a burst) over everything and rock that grain.
     
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  6. Sea Devil

    Sea Devil Friend of Leo's

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    I agree with Boreas. If you try to get the green completely out, the odds are good that you'll ruin it. Just make it even and then do something cool with what you've got.

    The sides are going to drive you crazy!
     
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  7. Boreas

    Boreas Poster Extraordinaire

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    A good burst should help with that!
     
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  8. Mike Simpson

    Mike Simpson Doctor of Teleocity

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    Paint it a solid color.
     
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  9. Boreas

    Boreas Poster Extraordinaire

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    That would be giving in!!
     
  10. dconeill

    dconeill Tele-Afflicted

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    I have three thoughts:
    1. sanding won't work well, for reasons cited previously
    2. paint it a solid color and be done with it
    3. this seems like a disproportionate amount of effort to put into a $500 guitar
     
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  11. Mike Simpson

    Mike Simpson Doctor of Teleocity

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    That would be winning... not screwing around until you mess it up real good trying to make it something it will never be...
     
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  12. Old Deaf Roadie

    Old Deaf Roadie Friend of Leo's Gold Supporter

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    Step 1 - Paint it
    Step 2 - Sell it
    Step 3 - Get a different guitar

    $0.02
     
  13. Mike Simpson

    Mike Simpson Doctor of Teleocity

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    Or... leave the green in the grain and make it a "feature" maybe with a green or blue tinted clear.
     
  14. ScribbleSomething

    ScribbleSomething Tele-Holic

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    If I had a vote I suggest to embrace it. Finish sanding the rest of the guitar. Then do a few coats of Mary Kaye white or TV yellow until the grain is subdued enough.

    Then if those don’t work go solid like candy apple red.
     
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  15. stratisfied

    stratisfied Tele-Afflicted

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    No there isn't any way. Don't waste your time trying to sand it. Veneer is too thin to get that level of color penetration out. Just paint over it with a solid color, sell it and buy a guitar in the finish you actually want.
     
  16. schmee

    schmee Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    High risk, Go solid color. You could try some kind of burst like perimeter with grain showing in the center part maybe...
     
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  17. slick4772

    slick4772 Tele-Meister

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    Thanks for the replies. I got it for a good price, I wanted to see if that "worn" finish would just sand right out. It is easier to deal with than the traditional gloss poly but I quickly discovered that this green isn't coming out of the grain. I was hoping that there was some miracle that you guys knew about that I didn't.

    I don't like the green because it's too "modern" a finish. I would like it to be more "vintage" looking. I'm going to paint it either black or pelham blue and be done with it. Depending on how it looks, feels, etc, I'll sell it or keep it.
     
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  18. Mark617

    Mark617 Tele-Meister

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    I agree with trying to get the edges sanded down to match the inner body. Go slow, take your time
    Perhaps using dyes you could do a burst that highlights the grain . A reddish/ brown tint would hide the flaws and make what’s left pop
     
  19. Boreas

    Boreas Poster Extraordinaire

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    Well, you gave it a shot and learned something. That has value as well. Keep us updated.
     
  20. old wrench

    old wrench Friend of Leo's

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    The Gibson semi-hollows, like the ES series, are made from wood built up from 3 plies.

    Back when I was looking into this, they had just changed from using maple and basswood for the plies, to maple and poplar.

    Not sure what Epiphone does, but I'd think it would be a similar construction.

    So - you don't have much thickness to work with before you've gone through the surface lamination and into glue and/or the middle lamination ;)


    .
     
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