Is it safe to move down a grit and re-sand?

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by brokenbones, Sep 17, 2021.

  1. brokenbones

    brokenbones Tele-Holic

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    Backstory:

    -Stripped painted Alder body using heat gun and scraper
    -Orbit sander w/ #220
    -Hand/block sanded w/ #320
    -will be dyeing w/ analine wood dye

    I am just not pleased with the sanding results from the #320. Any downside to starting over to 220 by hand?

    My main issues are the constant white blotches that have shown up and will not sand out with #320. The end grains have this sort of wave pattern and there are small scratch marks where the waves switch from down to up. Should these be sanded with the grain or should the entire ends be sanded horizontal to the rest of the body?

    *I change paper and have popped the grain a couple times.
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2021
  2. Timbresmith1

    Timbresmith1 Tele-Afflicted

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    Go for it. You could try 180 if you want. Hard sanding block recommended- just follow through with the 220 and 320 after.
     
  3. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Friend of Leo's

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    Are the white botches some sealer that is still there or is it just part of the Alder?
     
  4. brokenbones

    brokenbones Tele-Holic

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    I haven't put any sealer on.
     
  5. Timbresmith1

    Timbresmith1 Tele-Afflicted

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    He means from before you stripped it.
     
  6. brokenbones

    brokenbones Tele-Holic

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    I'm not really sure. This is my first attempt at a refinish. The guitar was factory painted black with polyurethane finish. Is sanding sealer what i'm up against??


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2021
  7. Timbresmith1

    Timbresmith1 Tele-Afflicted

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    No sanding sealer under urethanes afaik.
    It’s probably a clear basecoat/ sealer. You might try a chemical stripper to clean up those areas.
     
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  8. stratisfied

    stratisfied Tele-Afflicted

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    What brand of body is that? It looks like it was primered first.
     
  9. brokenbones

    brokenbones Tele-Holic

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    It's a Line 6 Variax JTV-69, MIK.
     
  10. AAT65

    AAT65 Poster Extraordinaire

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    My Squier bass looked similar when I stripped it - it was a very even coat, which showed the grain through but if you scraped it then it showed white. I guess it's a sealer or primer coat, maybe dipped.
    (I'm going for solid colour so I just sanded to reasonably flat before I started spraying. You can see it in post 9 on my refin thread.)
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2021
  11. brokenbones

    brokenbones Tele-Holic

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    What are my options at this point? A chemical paint stripper followed by more sanding? 120(180)/220/320? Any recommendations on type or brands of paint stripper?
     
  12. tomasz

    tomasz Tele-Meister

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    I guess, whatever brand of sandpaper you will choose, the real answer is: more elbow grease is needed. Those "blotches" need to come off, if you are not planning on a solid color. I'd start with some 80 or 120 grit even, put some good music on and just sand away :)
     
  13. Peegoo

    Peegoo Doctor of Teleocity

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    How do you know when you've sanded through all the sealer?

    Wipe the wood with alcohol. If the wood turns a shade darker, you're down to bare wood. If the color does not change, there's still sealer on the surface.

    Do not be smoking when doing this unless you like playing with fire o_O

    You can use water and get the same effect, but it swells the grain and takes a whole lot longer to dry.
     
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  14. brokenbones

    brokenbones Tele-Holic

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    Jim or Jack?

    But seriously, is denatured alcohol or isopropyl okay?
     
  15. Peegoo

    Peegoo Doctor of Teleocity

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    Yep!!
     
  16. Sea Devil

    Sea Devil Friend of Leo's

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    Isopropyl is better, IMO. Cheaper, non-toxic, and unlikely to do weird things to any chemical residue on the body.
     
  17. RodeoTex

    RodeoTex Doctor of Teleocity

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    Maybe just ditch the dye.
     
  18. Nickfl

    Nickfl Friend of Leo's

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    IMO, 220 is too fine a grit to start with. I'd start with 120 at least, or even 80, and work up from there. Put a lot of effort and attention into getting everything perfectly sanded at your starting course grit and then it will be relatively easy and quick to work your way up through the finer grits after that.
     
  19. Hags

    Hags Tele-Meister

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    Kinda looks like it’s not fully sanded
    Hard to tell from a pic, is the white bare wood and the rest left over residue? Maybe DA the top w/120grit to see what happens
     
  20. Mark617

    Mark617 Tele-Meister

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    No you can go down and rough it out. It’s all how you handle the finishing and buffing that matters . Remember higher grit between coats
     
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