scat4me
Tele-Afflicted
I have 2 Teles a 72 Thinline and a 62 Reissue. Both have intonation problems on the Low E String. I have adjusted the saddles back as far as they will go and both are still sharp on the 12th fret. Any ideas what's wrong ?
Intonation Problems
- Thread starter scat4me
- Start date
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Steps to intonate:
Did you do the first 3?
Steps to intonate:
- Fresh strings
- Adjust truss rod so neck is as straight as possible
- Adjust action at bridge and nut
- Set intonation
Did you do the first 3?
jefrs
Doctor of Teleocity
Are the other strings intonation correctly set?
How high is the action?
The nut adjusts intonation and action over frets ~ 1-7
The truss rod adjusts action over frets ~ 5-14
The saddles (& neck shim) adjust intonation and action over frets ~ 12-22
If the action is too high then the string stretches as it is fretted and pulls sharp.
You can only adjust intonation after the action is correctly set by nut, truss rod and saddle height.
If the nut slot is too shallow then you will never get the intonation at the 12th because action is too high.
You really can only set intonation using an accurate tuner such as a Peterson set to chromatic, even then it is a compromise. Do not only use the 12th fret but (e.g.) 10th, 15th and 17th too.
How high is the action?
The nut adjusts intonation and action over frets ~ 1-7
The truss rod adjusts action over frets ~ 5-14
The saddles (& neck shim) adjust intonation and action over frets ~ 12-22
If the action is too high then the string stretches as it is fretted and pulls sharp.
You can only adjust intonation after the action is correctly set by nut, truss rod and saddle height.
If the nut slot is too shallow then you will never get the intonation at the 12th because action is too high.
You really can only set intonation using an accurate tuner such as a Peterson set to chromatic, even then it is a compromise. Do not only use the 12th fret but (e.g.) 10th, 15th and 17th too.
scat4me
Tele-Afflicted
Yes first 3 are done.
Fresh strings
Neck is straight
Action @ bridge. ( not sure how to adjust the nut.
All other strings are right on with no intonation problems.
Low E is sharp all over the board. Open string shows in tune with 2 different tuners.
Action is low with no Buzzing.
rolling56
Friend of Leo's
Back all the saddles towards the butt of the guitar before you put the new strings on so the strings don't get bent if you need to back them up. If you move the saddles forward to start your intonation then the bend won't effect the strings. That way the only way to get the string to intonate is to move them forward. Make sense?
scat4me
Tele-Afflicted
The strings aren't bent. They were changed one at a time. 5 of the 6 strings intonate perfectly. It's only the low E that's harp.
rolling56
Friend of Leo's
When you changed strings was the saddle for the low E back as far as it will go? or did you move the saddle back after you changed strings and tuned it to pitch E?
When you put on new strings and tune to pitch they get bent on the saddle(s). They may not look like it till you take them off.
I'll stay off of this thread and let the pros have it.
scat4me
Tele-Afflicted
No I didn't back the saddles up.
jefrs
Doctor of Teleocity
You have a point there, and the 6th is the one string that is thick enough that the tension won't pull a kink out. But this can be ironed out by rubbing a steel rod (e.g. a biggish drill shank) over the kink up the string into the saddle.
I do however find it odd that all the other strings intonate except the 6th.
How far back is the saddle on the 5th A string? :?:
- this should be the second longest
Can you post up a pic of the saddles from straight down from above so we caqn see the problem? :?:
Re the nut - nuts are adjusted with nut files. Nut files are expensive. Not difficult to do but there is a learning curve. If you have but the one guitar then it is probably a job for the guitar technician. All new nuts on new guitars have the slots cut too shallow - they don't know what strings you're going to fit, and you can only file material off, this leads to the strings pulling-sharp over the first few frets (especially 1st).
Can you post up a pic of the nut from the bass side so we can see the gap over the 1st fret? :?:
scat4me
Tele-Afflicted
I have nut files but am not sure how the nut should be cut. I am intonating to a fretted note.
You're on the front pickup, with the tone rolled off, right? The guitar isn't being supported under the neck? Fretting pressure isn't shifting or bowing the neck?
If you tune the E to pitch, and play the heck out of it, does it(the open E) return to pitch? If not, it's binding in the nut or saddle.
Try cranking the E saddle way down, and reintonate (even if it buzzes a little). If it helps, you may need to add a little relief to the neck, or shim the peghead end of the neck pocket and compensate by lowering the saddles.
I also wonder about your tuners. Do you know someone with a strobe tuner? I'd just about bet a strobe tuner will show a very different - and more accurate - result.
If you tune the E to pitch, and play the heck out of it, does it(the open E) return to pitch? If not, it's binding in the nut or saddle.
Try cranking the E saddle way down, and reintonate (even if it buzzes a little). If it helps, you may need to add a little relief to the neck, or shim the peghead end of the neck pocket and compensate by lowering the saddles.
I also wonder about your tuners. Do you know someone with a strobe tuner? I'd just about bet a strobe tuner will show a very different - and more accurate - result.
Sounds like Stratitus to me...... the magnets in the pup is causing the string to vibrate in an asymmetrical wave.... lower the pickups.... intonate then raise them... checking..... particularly the Loe E at the 12 th fret....
also do not support the neck on a work bench with a block at the nut.... that causes the neck to bow slightly screwing with ya......
Ron Kirn
also do not support the neck on a work bench with a block at the nut.... that causes the neck to bow slightly screwing with ya......
Ron Kirn
Bartholomew3
Friend of Leo's
One bad E string ?
bingy
Friend of Leo's
Cut the spring so the saddle will go back even further.
Or... does the the string really have to intonate correctly. (How high up the neck do you actually play string 6?)
Or... does the the string really have to intonate correctly. (How high up the neck do you actually play string 6?)
scat4me
Tele-Afflicted
I am using a snark clip on tuner. I have checked 4 other guitars 2 tels a strat and a jazzmaster and they have no problems.
mellecaster
Former Member
What Brand of String ?
bingy
Friend of Leo's
I wouldn't attach too much significance to the fact that some other guitar doesn't have the problem.
fezz parka
---------------------------
First off you need to place the saddles @25.5. Then check where you're at. Move as necessary. E/A will go back a little. D/G will go back a little less. B/E could stay here it is.
That happened to me once, too. At that time I didn't know enough to figure out that it could be other factors, I figured it was the guitar. I suggest changing the low E string and trying it again. You could simply have a bad string. Snarks are great; I have four of them, but a strobe tuner will be a little more accurate for intonation work. I have a Planet Waves strobe which I use for intonation because I can't afford a Peterson.
