Inductive Cooktop Not Working

Discussion in 'Bad Dog Cafe' started by Gardo, Jul 9, 2020.

  1. Gardo

    Gardo Tele-Holic

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    Does anyone have any experience with inductive cooktop problems ? I sure could use some help We have a GE Inductive cooktop model PHP900DMBB . It's about 7 1/2 years old and always worked great. Today my wife was boiling water in a large pan and heating oil in sauce pan when I heard some popping from the sauce pan. I reached over and lifted it uo a little and saw what looked like an arc between he glass surface and the pan The cooktop lost power. I walked to the basement to check the breaker and found it tripped. I reset the breaker and headed back to the kitchen Treid the cooktop again but all we got was all of the fashing E . I hit the control lock and then unlock, no more E until I tried to heat a pan then the E came back on that burner only. Result is a non functioning stove . the timer works and so does the control lock but no heat
    Thanks
     
  2. stxrus

    stxrus Poster Extraordinaire

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    Not any help here. Totally propane. But the few inductives I know about here are not looked on favorably.
    I look forward to the replies
     
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  3. Peegoo

    Peegoo Friend of Leo's

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    Search for a schematic for your model online (or dig out the manual if you have it). It will show a circuit breaker or multiple breakers in the diagram. Sometimes they're manually resettable, and sometimes they're simply a thermal fuse that pops and must be replaced.

    Thermal fuses are a big failure mode for glass cooktop stoves and automatic coffee makers.

    They good news is a replacement fuse costs about a dollar. The bad news is you have to take it apart to get to it. The bad fuse is clipped out and the replacement is crimped on using steel crimp sleeves because a solder connection will melt on use. If you figure out one of the thermal fuses is bad (use a meter and check continuity across it), don't replace that one. Replace 'em all because they have a life span.
     
  4. Gardo

    Gardo Tele-Holic

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    Hey Thanks ,I'm on it and I will let you know what I find
     
  5. otterhound

    otterhound Poster Extraordinaire

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    I'll stick with gas and cast iron . Good luck .
     
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  6. HoodieMcFoodie

    HoodieMcFoodie Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Have you lost cooking function across all the hotplates or just on one?
     
  7. Peegoo

    Peegoo Friend of Leo's

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    Sometimes the heat element goes bad and must be replaced.

    The E code is an error and the controller may have a hidden reset function that's published only in the factory service manuals. Which can really suck for us DIY types.
     
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  8. HoodieMcFoodie

    HoodieMcFoodie Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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  9. HotRodSteve

    HotRodSteve Friend of Leo's

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    I can't help you either but my new house came with an inductive stove and it sucks. Boiling water with a copper bottom tea kettle takes forever and cooking on the range the pan temp is either too low or red hot, very hard to control. My next house will have an electric stove with the coils.
     
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  10. koen

    koen Friend of Leo's

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    Sounds like advice for a 5E3 that's not working - lol
     
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  11. Peegoo

    Peegoo Friend of Leo's

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    "IMPORTANT: If the “E” flashes alone, without alternating to a “c” or “o”, a hardware error has occurred. Call for service."

    Well there ya go. Something has hard-failed and needs servicing.
     
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  12. Gardo

    Gardo Tele-Holic

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    Lost cooking on all
     
  13. scooteraz

    scooteraz Friend of Leo's

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    If you saw arcing of your inductive element, it is fried. Hopefully it did not take the control board with it.

    Looks like inductive heating elements are between $100 and $250 each, depending on wattage. Couldn’t find the cost of the control board. The induction assembly kit appears to be about $300.
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2020
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  14. 61fury

    61fury Friend of Leo's

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    I know those open coils are cheap and unloved but I have come to appreciate mine.The heat is steady and very controllable and you don't need much of it after it comes to temperature. When I'm cooking on my friend's gas stove I'm always fighting with/adjusting the burners.
     
  15. Gardo

    Gardo Tele-Holic

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    We discovered that pressing and holding the control lock and timer together causes an alternating flash of E and 5. If this is the correct way to get a code it would indicate internal electronic failure on filter board
     
  16. Gardo

    Gardo Tele-Holic

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    Thanks I have this already but didn't find too much real help in it
     
  17. Gardo

    Gardo Tele-Holic

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    i was surprised to see n arc through the glass top
     
  18. Gardo

    Gardo Tele-Holic

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    i really like the stove overall. copper bottom kettles are not the best choice though. The stove cooks with magnetism and copper is not magnetic. I set my frying pan to 71/2 give it a minute or so to heat and I'm frying spam and eggs
     
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  19. HotRodSteve

    HotRodSteve Friend of Leo's

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    Well that makes sense if magnetism is involved, I'll have to boil water in the microwave for now. Not sure what 71/2 means, the stove burners (and that's what they do) have dials that go from Hi to Lo. I'll live with it until I build my house and get a proper stove.
     
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  20. scooteraz

    scooteraz Friend of Leo's

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    If that is really what happened (actual heater to pan arc through the glass) that would be bad. Really bad. As in replace not only the affected element, the inductive assembly but also the glass top bad, at least potentially. Hopefully that was some sort of optical illusion.
     
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