As a human of large proportions, I approve this message!
For the love of God please don't put a ceiling fan down there!
In which our hero needs carpentry advice, naturally consults a guitar forum.
- Thread starter Rich_S
- Start date
For the love of God please don't put a ceiling fan down there!
flathd
Poster Extraordinaire
I'm a little late chiming in, but I used to cut down doors, bi-folds etc. all the time. I always scored the doors with a utility knife and a straight edge, about 1/16" above the cut line to prevent splintering on the door. You only have to do it on the top side, the bottom won't splinter, unless you're using a rip blade. Also masking tape to prevent the saw from scratching the door. I always cut a new filler piece instead of trying to peel the veneer off the cut off piece. Also file the cut edge to prevent splintering and give it a finished edge.
Also, I didn't see a finished photo of the door, but cutting 10" off the bottom of the door is going to make your door handles look extremely low if they're already cut in.
Also, I didn't see a finished photo of the door, but cutting 10" off the bottom of the door is going to make your door handles look extremely low if they're already cut in.
Last edited:
I took 10” off the top of the door and carefully measured to know where the block for the lock set is inside the door before I glued the filler piece back in.
As a 6’2” tall, 26 yr tile and stone man - I approve of none of what’s been done and would’ve handled the whole thing differently !
By the previous homeowner that is…
tfarny
Poster Extraordinaire
A thought, if you're handy - make a solid door from a sheet of 3/4 sanded plywood. Cut two to size and glue them together, you'll have a 1 1/2" (almost) full solid door that will not only be very stable but also provide much better soundproofing than a standard door. If you want it to look a bit dressier you can by 1/4" by 2" maple strips at Lowe's and glue them around the perimeter.
Drilling out for a standard door knob might be tricky, I have not done that part. I have just used pulls designed for cabinets and little magnets to hold the door closed - this is for a basement and an attic door.
Drilling out for a standard door knob might be tricky, I have not done that part. I have just used pulls designed for cabinets and little magnets to hold the door closed - this is for a basement and an attic door.
Lies&Distortion
Tele-Afflicted
Heck, I'm only 5'6" and I don't either ...
catseye360
TDPRI Member
Best solution is to take a jack hammer and lower the floor. 
Yeah sure I have cut down all sorts of doors and glued new ends into hollow core doors.
But guess what?
Door companies take orders for any size door you need, right down to itty bitty crawl space under the eaves doors.
Home Depot or legit building supply places will not stock custom size doors, but a legit building supply place should have a windows & doors guy in an office somewhere who can order your custom size needs.
And not at FCS prices, very typical innrenovation trades to need one or one hundred non stock door or window sizes.
Agree on the louvers if the equipment requires ventilation.
Not all those things do though and for example some may be vented to outside via bathroom style 4" aluminum duct, may need a fan or not.
Here we see a gas hot water heater in a basement level hotel room, door is an exterior door with weather seal and due to a bit of noise I added corrugated foam on the inside of the door.
No venting into the interior room.
Depends on the equipment requirements.
But guess what?
Door companies take orders for any size door you need, right down to itty bitty crawl space under the eaves doors.
Home Depot or legit building supply places will not stock custom size doors, but a legit building supply place should have a windows & doors guy in an office somewhere who can order your custom size needs.
And not at FCS prices, very typical innrenovation trades to need one or one hundred non stock door or window sizes.
Agree on the louvers if the equipment requires ventilation.
Not all those things do though and for example some may be vented to outside via bathroom style 4" aluminum duct, may need a fan or not.
Here we see a gas hot water heater in a basement level hotel room, door is an exterior door with weather seal and due to a bit of noise I added corrugated foam on the inside of the door.
No venting into the interior room.
Depends on the equipment requirements.
Cellordin
TDPRI Member
At our office there was a low corridor leading to the fire escape, the inspector made them lower the floor so that there was 6’6” of clearance.
The first tenant that moved into the space was 6’8” tall.
The first tenant that moved into the space was 6’8” tall.
Greggery Kokkery would approve. He's 6'8". I'm 6'4" and felt like I was standing next to a freaking sasquatch.
