If you were going to spray daphne blue nitro . . . . .

[ChicknPickn]

Would you use anything other than grain filler and sealer beneath it? White? Primer?

 

[Timbresmith1]

Would you use anything other than grain filler and sealer beneath it? White? Primer?

White primer. I’d skip grain-fill on fine grained wood (alder, poplar, basswood, maple…). I go white primer, then color.

 

[ChicknPickn]

White primer. I’d skip grain-fill on fine grained wood (alder, poplar, basswood, maple…). I go white primer, then color.

Thank you, sir!

 

[Sea Devil]

White primer for sure, and I'd finesse the hell out of it. When you think you're done, walk away and come back later, raking a bright light across your previous work and fixing any flaws. Repeat. Only then will you be ready for the color, and it will be totally painless as a result of your fastidious, uncompromising prep work. Be ready to sand aggressively at the primer stage, and use a large-ish block for flat surfaces.

 

[ChicknPickn]

White primer for sure, and I'd finesse the hell out of it. When you think you're done, walk away and come back later, raking a bright light across your previous work and fixing any flaws. Repeat. Only then will you be ready for the color, and it will be totally painless as a result of your fastidious, uncompromising prep work. Be ready to sand aggressively at the primer stage, and use a large-ish block for flat surfaces.

I might as well follow up on this good advice: is there a primer the experienced finishers here prefer?

 

[Timbresmith1]

I used Kilz original aerosol on my last couple and it was fantastic. It sanded level like plaster of paris.

 

[Sea Devil]

I like Mohawk products a lot. You can get a surface like polished marble with their white primer.

 

[fenderchamp]

I'd follow the schedule described on the reranch website

 

[Killing Floor]

White primer. I’d skip grain-fill on fine grained wood (alder, poplar, basswood, maple…). I go white primer, then color.

I think it looks good without filler. I’m realizing the color in this pic is washed from glare but it is Daphne single shot over unfilled ash of some variety.

 

[Timbresmith1]

I think it looks good without filler. I’m realizing the color in this pic is washed from glare but it is Daphne single shot over unfilled ash of some variety.
View attachment 1146297

That does look good!

 

[ChicknPickn]

I think it looks good without filler. I’m realizing the color in this pic is washed from glare but it is Daphne single shot over unfilled ash of some variety.
View attachment 1146297

Wow - - that IS cool.

 

[dasherf17]

White primer for sure, and I'd finesse the hell out of it. When you think you're done, walk away and come back later, raking a bright light across your previous work and fixing any flaws. Repeat. Only then will you be ready for the color, and it will be totally painless as a result of your fastidious, uncompromising prep work. Be ready to sand aggressively at the primer stage, and use a large-ish block for flat surfaces.

Fer sher...I did my first guitar where the finish was super glossy when I first applied it...came back to see the dry work, it had sunk into the grain...>ich!<

 

[AS193]

Would you use anything other than grain filler and sealer beneath it? White? Primer?

I think I would use a silver base color over the white primer and under the Daphne Blue.

 

[Sax-son]

Depending on the wood, I would first shoot a couple coats of sanding sealer over the bare wood and then use BINS shellac white primer (great for solids) and fine sand it with 320 grit before shooting the Daphne Blue. I used the same products with Fiesta Red and the Daphne Blue should pop out nicely.

 

[David PNW]

I used Kilz original aerosol on my last couple and it was fantastic. It sanded level like plaster of paris.

Kilz works great, used it on this guitar:

 

[Sea Devil]

That LPB Mustang looks fantastic!

I don't think they ever did Mustangs in that color. Pretty sure there was a "competition stripe" model in a darker metallic blue, which they may still have called LPB even though it wasn't, but no single-color LPB version.

 

[stylemessiah]

You could always paint it sunburst first, you know, just in case you want to relic it later to reveal partial sunburst so you too can have that fake "its been refinished" look liked by some people who need therapy

 

[Commander]

Would you use anything other than grain filler and sealer beneath it? White? Primer?

First, stain the guitar yellow. Then, use sanding sealer or white primer. Then paint your topcoats and finish with a clear coat. When it ages, you will see the blue worn to white, then yellow. From what I have read, Fender used to stain all of their bodies with yellow stain, whether or not they would be sunburst or a custom color. I saw a friend’s mustang that had been well worn with that color scheme, which seems to validate what I read. I painted my Jazzmaster build in that manner. It’s not a true Daphne blue, but very close.

 

[Commander]

That LPB Mustang looks fantastic!

I don't think they ever did Mustangs in that color. Pretty sure there was a "competition stripe" model in a darker metallic blue, which they may still have called LPB even though it wasn't, but no single-color LPB vsersion.

Actually, Fender painted them red, white or blue in the early years before the competition stripes. The three colors were actually pretty close to, if not actually Dakota Red, Olympic White or Daphne Blue. The metallic blue was called “Burgundy.” For some reason.

 

[Sea Devil]

I had a mint-condition red 1966 for a while. Definitely Dakota. Daphne Blue varies a lot, but the light blue Mustangs I've seen seemed to fall within that color's range, on the darker side.