If you are considering the $3.49 Harbor Freight T-Handle Reamer, you may wish to reconsider

[TF from MN]

After an hour of futile attempts to widen a hole in the endblock of my guitar for an endpin jack, I realize that the Harbor Freight T-handle reamer may be better suited for reaming holes in Cheerios or Kleenex boxes. Your $3.49 can be spent better elsewhere.

I like Harbor Freight, but I think that their strong suit is cable ties, sandpaper, LED flashlights and work gloves.

 

[StoneH]

After an hour of futile attempts to widen a hole in the endblock of my guitar for an endpin jack, I realize that the Harbor Freight T-handle reamer may be better suited for reaming holes in Cheerios or Kleenex boxes. Your $3.49 can be spent better elsewhere.

I like Harbor Freight, but I think that their strong suit is cable ties, sandpaper, LED flashlights and work gloves.

This is the right tool for the job. <Edit> This is a stock photo and not the tool I actually use. I use the Irwin in post #7.

 

[rand z]

You can use a "rat-tail" file for the end pin jack.

(Not as good as a t-handle reamer.)

But, go very slowly/carefully and make sure the hole is even (in circumference).

Keep inserting the end pin jack till it fits snugly.

And STOP.

(I've done this successfully.)

Good luck.

imo.

 

[notmyusualuserid]

This is the right tool for the job.

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I wouldn't be putting any of my guitars near that.

 

[OlRedNeckHippy]

My collapsible hand truck I got there is holding up well, considering I use it every gig. I'm pleasantly supersized.

 

[badscrew_projects]

This is the right tool for the job.

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The steps aren't tall enough

 

[Andy B]

Actually this works nicely for opening up an end pin hole if you get a step bit that has 1/2" as the largest step. I've used one for years. Makes a very smooth hole. Irwin Unibit #1.

 

[telemnemonics]

End pin jack needs a deep as in long hole through the block that is not tapered.
Step bits are suited for thin material, not really for the end block in an acoustic.
Might be best to pay a tech or luthier if you do not have the right tools for the job?

Even with a quality reamer, you do not want the end of the hole you plug into to be larger than the diameter of the jack, which it will be if you use a reamer or stepped bit that is smaller at the other end.

 

[StoneH]

I wouldn't be putting any of my guitars near that.

The steps aren't tall enough

"This is the right tool for the job."
Actually this is the right tool for the job if you get a step bit that has 1/2" as the largest step. I've used one for years. Makes a very smooth hole. Irwin Unibit #1.

This is the actual tool I used to install a K&K mini on my 1976 Yairi. It worked perfectly.

 

[Sparky2]

 

[Musekatcher]

The right tool to ream a hole, is a reamer. I'm sure you can make a step drill work. I could probably make a pocket knife work. But, the next person that diassembles my work, will find a correct repair or installation. I got a good fluted ream 20 years ago, still sharper than a razor. I think it was $30. I'm sure I've used it 20 or more times. You get the story.

 

[bottlenecker]

I'm pleasantly supersized.

Me too, but no one's ever put it so nice.

 

[Telenator]

"This is the right tool for the job."
Actually this is the right tool for the job if you get a step bit that has 1/2" as the largest step. I've used one for years. Makes a very smooth hole. Irwin Unibit #1.

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No no no! You can't drill deep holes of a consistent diameter with that. Those are only good for sheet metal and other thin materials that are less thick than each step of the bit.

Drilling an end block on an acoustic with that bit would be a big disaster.

 

[Boreas]

Assuming you have a tapered hole now, try to find a drill bit that is just slightly larger than the inside diameter but smaller than the outside diameter. Get yourself a drill that has a low RPM setting. Start by enlargening the ID first SLOWLY. Then get the next biggest bit and drill again - preferably no more than a 1/32" jump. Keep stepping up with small increments until you get to the right size.

I usually tape the area surrounding the hole to minimize chipping. I also usually do the first few turns by reverse drilling to make a little countersink. But you really want to use SHARP bits and hold the drill tightly to minimize the risk of it grabbing. You just want to "touch" the wood with no pressure. The advantage to doing it in stages like above is you get a feel for what the drill will do and how to keep it from grabbing

If you are drilling solid wood you should be OK. Sometimes cheap, laminated sides often have more of a tendency to chip.

If you are ham-fisted, pay a pro to do it.

 

[Freeman Keller]

When I started installing pickups in acoustic guitars I broke down and bought the StewMa reamer. Yes it is expensive, but I've probably done 20 or 30 guitars by now and it works perfectly, no chipping or cracks or any damage to the guitars



The other handy tools are the long brass rod with a male jack on the end to pull the jack into position, and Frank Ford's wonderful Jack-the-Gripper to hold it while tightening the nut.

Endpin Jack Reamer - StewMac

Enlarge an endpin hole for a 15/32" or 1/2"-diameter jack with this custom steel reamer.

www.stewmac.com

 

[Timbresmith1]

This is the right tool for the job.

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Noooooooooo

 

[Timbresmith1]

Forstner or brad point bit followed by chucking reamer.

 

[stxrus]

A fluted reamer is the only way to go. Any step bit is an invitation for disaster.

 

[maxvintage]

This is the right tool for the job.

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No, it's not!

 

[OlRedNeckHippy]

Man, as I recall, I just used a drill bit of the size stated in the installation directions for the Barcus-Berry piezo I put in my Guild D-35 back in 1983, about a month after I got the guitar (brand new off the showroom floor). I put painter's tape over it, and drilled out the hole. No biggie. A little spooky but, no biggie.
The pickup looked like this:

I still use that guitar (with that pickup), today, some 40+ years later.

I don't understand what the big deal is. Just tape it up and drill out the hole!