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Discussion in 'Stratocaster Discussion Forum' started by A1exand3r, Nov 30, 2019.
I may have to try this...
Hard to see the pics in iCloud as they come up tiny on my iPad when posting on the forum but the above gives an idea of the process.
Remember, Eric Clapton approves of blocking your trem.
What matters to sustain is the amount of string beyond saddles and nut that can stretch and the friction of the strings on the saddles and nut. Think of a car with good/bad shocks and how it reacts after a pot hole. So put No.2 pencil lead on the contacts for more sustain.
I want to remove the trem on one of my Strats, block the hole with wood, install a Gibson style rollor bridge and a JM style tremolo. Or I could buy a JM?Jag and put whatever pickups I want in it.
I swore off a trem in 1987, never again, never never, never again
I have the trem blocked on all three of my Strats. All three are blocked with a piece of ash. No difference from when they were unblocked. I should note that one of them was blocked by the Fender Custom Shop and the other two by a professional luthier.
I leave the trem floating, but rarely put on the bars. I like the extra slack when you bend with your fingers. One of the reasons I've always liked floating trems. It doesn't feel like a fixed bridge guitar.
Love this idea, but my wood working skills are a tad lacking to tackle something so precise.
Wow! Nice work, very well done!
You mentioned a lot of weight relief... It's not so significant as to cause neck dive, is it?
Came down to 6lbs 14ozs from 7.5 lbs so not that drastic but much more comfortable for my shot back.
Some wood removed under the guard as well.
I drank the TGP Kool-Aid, like an idiot. Swapped the 'thin' block in my favorite CV Strat for a big block. Guess what it did to the guitar? Tone wise, sustain wise, NOTHING.
ALL it did was add 1lb to it.
it's another "I wanna be like the cool kids" snake oil waste of money unless you like a heavier guitar.
That wood block is a great idea, patent it and make some money!
I'd buy some.
I have two with blocked trems. I used a block of wood in one (spring tension keeps it in place) and one with a stack of quarters (again, spring tension). They both sound more "alive" after the blocking.
I just bought an ash body for the MiM one that has the wood block. Next time, I'll build a block like telenemonics did. What a great solution! I have a trem cavity block-off that doesn't quite fit so it sits in the drawer awaiting the correct time to use it.
This. Is. Awesome. Gonna do this to my Strat copy! Where do you reroute your string/bridge ground?
I swapped the whole tailpiece on my CV for a Mex high mass an I think it made a significant difference. Best $30 I've ever spent on an upgrade. Maybe its not the block but it did make a difference.
I'd have to hunt back through icloud pics but I'm pretty sure I just drilled from the trem rout above into the control cavity and sandwiched some thin wire between the bridge plate and the maple "trem block". Not from the back rout, the wire is not visible like original.
Drilling through the block so the holes line up and don't wander out the side of the block is a little tricky, you can see the hole I drilled into the plywood drill press table and put a pin in, then flip the block and drill the ferrule holes from the back, followed by finishing the string through holes which were only drilled half way from the plate side.
To ensure the block stayed at 90 degrees to the drill I clamped it to a longer piece so it couldn't tip on the narrow top edge.
I kinda figured you ran the ground wire through a new hole so it could be sandwiched. I am going to try to build one of these here in the next week or so. Looks like a fun little project!