Ideas on Relicing a Poly CV50?

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SmattaHead

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So, I have been wanting to relic a guitar for some time. I decided to start with a new Classic Vibe 50s tele in butterscotch. I really like the guitar as it comes from the factory with all the correct pieces to start with.

Once you have it in your hands, you realize that these guitars have a very heavy finish on them, which the factory calls polyester. Talk about high gloss! I'm curious whether this finish could be worn of with 50 years of regular play! It's that tough!!!

As for relicing the guitar, I imagine this is going to take some serious elbow grease! Steel wool, sanding and scotchbriting.....

Any other ideas on how to age this tough outter skin????

BTW, I know that relicing is not everyone's cup of tea, and has drawn a tremendous amount of criticizm on this forum. I'm not here to run for forum president. This is a project that I am doing with my 8 year old to get him more interested in guitar generally, after he has been letting me give him some basic lessons over the past few weeks. I'm hoping he takes an interest to guitar like I have. I always think to myself that I would have been a much better player had I started as a kid instead of in my 30s. So, please don't flame me for wanting to relic my kids guitar.

Any help is appreciated! Thanks
 

tele12

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So, I have been wanting to relic a guitar for some time. I decided to start with a new Classic Vibe 50s tele in butterscotch. ..........................

Once you have it in your hands, you realize that these guitars have a very heavy finish on them, which the factory calls polyester. Talk about high gloss! I'm curious whether this finish could be worn of with 50 years of regular play! It's that tough!!!

As for relicing the guitar, I imagine this is going to take some serious elbow grease! Steel wool, sanding and scotchbriting.....

Any other ideas on how to age this tough outter skin????

....................

I would forget about Relicing the CV body. Save yourself a lot of work and start with something that is finished in Nitro, maybe a used Highway 1 body off Ebay.

As for the Relicing, look at pictures and real old guitars in person. Take it slow, don't try simulate 50 years or wear in a weekend. Start slow, make your guitar look 5 years old, don't be so careful with it, "accidentally" bang it into things. Then come back and simulate 10 years wear, then later 20 years etc.
 

bblumentritt

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In order to engage in relicing, doesn't licing have to come first? Why would someone add lice to a guitar? I don't get it.
 

hemingway

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I would forget about Relicing the CV body. Save yourself a lot of work and start with something that is finished in Nitro, maybe a used Highway 1 body off Ebay.

As for the Relicing, look at pictures and real old guitars in person. Take it slow, don't try simulate 50 years or wear in a weekend. Start slow, make your guitar look 5 years old, don't be so careful with it, "accidentally" bang it into things. Then come back and simulate 10 years wear, then later 20 years etc.

Yes, I'd imagine poly would not relic well or easily. More likely to just come off in big chunks.

I agree, I'd look at pics of actual old guitars rather than at pics of reliced guitars.

(What on earth am I doing on this thread anyway? I don't like relicing.)
 

Post Toastie

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You can always use a heat gun to get the thick poly coat off.Then finish the body in nitro.After that you can relic as you see fit. Try YouTube for videos on relicing guitars, there are some good videos.
 

stinkey

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My pal used an chisel to get it off and then some sandpaper to smooth it out.
And then he swapped the pick guard to Turtle. Nice.
 

FenderLover

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My '68 has a poly finish (first year for poly as I understand) and it still looks new. Poly doesn't age well if you're into a reliced look. The best you can do is scratch it and dent it for realism.
Depending on the results you're after, remember that Fender used to overspray poly with lacquer. You could try that and get it to crackle with the hot/cold treatment. The best option might be to refinish it in lacquer and then have at it.
 

Jeff R

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Play the snot outa the thing. Here's a poor shot of one with about four years of heavy use. Frets wore so bad I replaced the neck (and lost the neck pup) but the only paint wear is a small patch where my right forearm rubs.
 

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4telecaster4

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An sx tele poly tele I did...look late 60's early 70's. With poly the crack line aren't close...like nitro...with poly finish its difficult to due close anyways
 

telepath

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Thick ol' Poly rarely looks 'right' heavily relic'd. - IMO
It always seems to look like .. a Poly finish that someones had a go at.

If you just dull the typically overly glossy surface back a little (appropriately slightly glossier in places, slightly duller in other places), and apply some very subtle relic-ing / grubby-ing
it might work out 'better' - IMO.
Same for the neck.
And hardware on a CV50 is already nickel and dulls up easily enough, ready for 'grubby-ing'.

OK, Relic'ing is not everybody's idea of a 'good thing', but it is your guitar, and they are not rare - enjoy and do what you want.
Have fun .
And post some pics :)
 

SmattaHead

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Thanks for all the input!
I'm liking the heat gun idea. I was thinking I could strip the outter layer off, hit it with the sander, then respray, then relic. We'll see.
I don't think any signficant gains can be had with the poly finish.

I also am considering going very mild on the neck, but hitting the metal pieces heavy.

I will post some as we go.

Any recommendations on parts that are must upgrade pieces? What are the best noiseless pups anyway?
 

Frodebro

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Good call on not trying it with the poly, that stuff was designed to withstand a ton of abuse (it IS an automotive finish, after all!). My PRS is 23 years old and has a ton of miles on it, but it hasn't really "aged," it just has a nice collection of dings, chips, and scratches on it.
 

wrathfuldeity

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had a partscaster squire blond affinity, hated the poly...really now way to relic (there is quite the layer of filler), use a ceramic heater and it came off fairly easy....now the turdcaster ala a few coats on tung oil

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AngelStrummer

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Throw your keys at it for some good random dings and if you want some checking use a can of compressed air for paint guns.
 

crowhaven2000

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had a partscaster squire blond affinity, hated the poly...really now way to relic (there is quite the layer of filler), use a ceramic heater and it came off fairly easy....now the turdcaster ala a few coats on tung oil

IMG_0114.JPG

IMG_0181.JPG

Looks great, did you use tung oil on the back of the neck too? Not sticky? I used to do some woodworking and it's hard to apply tung oil "just right" Especially on pine.
 
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