I played my 000-15 for the first time in a decade.

[tbp0701]

I wanted to share somewhere. I bought a Martin 000-15 in 2007 and played it quite a bit until I bought a Collings OM1 in 2012. Since then the Martin has only come out briefly.

But life through things at me, and I stopped playing guitar at all for a while (fingers couldn't handle it), but that improved a few years ago with major life/health changes.

I mainly played the electrics (and digital piano) though. I'd take the Collings out on occasion, but I mostly felt guilty about having it.

So a few days ago I took a trip and sold the Collings, along with a couple electrics and an amp.

I have been playing the remaining electrics a lot, but tonight something drew me to the Martin. I restrung it, gave it a going over, and played. I struggled with it quite a bit, but tuned down a half step, and started recalling the feel and got closer to the old groove. I only stopped to not keep anyone awake.

It never played as easily as the OM1, and is much mellower, but I like its tone when I get it right. (The Collings could get overly zingy).

But I didn't quite realize how much I loved and missed playing an acoustic (I'd often use electric at whisper volume or with headphones to avoid disturbing others).

So while I'll miss the Collings--the finest guitar I'll likely ever have owned--the satin sapele Martin has been waiting, and it felt good to hear its voice again.

Also, while selling the guitars I was looking around, a salesman trying to persuade me to consider a custom shop 335, and another customer making a derogatory comment about my Fender hoodie, when I stepped into the acoustic room and though, I've never had a nylon string. So maybe one will be next.

 

[sloppychops]

Just curious...did you keep those acoustics humidified all that time they were in their cases? Only asking because I've been paying more attention to this than I have in the past...putting Herco clay humidifiers in all my cases and watering them every 4 weeks. One guitar I just sold had gone dry and developed a bad string buzz. I put two of those dangler humidifiers in the soundhole along with a Herco and after a week it was fine.

 

[tbp0701]

Just curious...did you keep those acoustics humidified all that time they were in their cases? Only asking because I've been paying more attention to this than I have in the past...putting Herco clay humidifiers in all my cases and watering them every 4 weeks. One guitar I just sold had gone dry and developed a bad string buzz. I put two of those dangler humidifiers in the soundhole along with a Herco and after a week it was fine.

I have in the past, but not for the last few years. There is a full house humidifier, and I kept them away from outside walls, and both have pretty solid cases. Fortunately I've not had any issues that I can tell.

 

[Tricone]

Sounds like it all worked out for the best. I am an acoustic guitar/acoustic music fan. I sold all my electric instruments and amps a few years back. I have never regretted that decision, actually it is the best musical decision I ever made.

If you are thinking about a nylon string, here is a cool video on them the whole trip and buying a guitar would be cheaper than many Collings guitars.

 

[Boreas]

Silk&steel strings won't sound superb, but they may help get your fingers back into shape a little more gradually. I would start with a new setup to ensure best playability. If it was stored at full-tension, the action may be a little high, and the saddle may need to be dropped.

 

[Chiogtr4x]

Just curious...did you keep those acoustics humidified all that time they were in their cases? Only asking because I've been paying more attention to this than I have in the past...putting Herco clay humidifiers in all my cases and watering them every 4 weeks. One guitar I just sold had gone dry and developed a bad string buzz. I put two of those dangler humidifiers in the soundhole along with a Herco and after a week it was fine.

My perennial problem with the humidity issue mainly with my 30 year old Martin D-1...

(I gig with it and a 2018 Blueridge OM-28 style)

... is I can't keep this guitar in it's case; it has spent its entire life about 3' from my easy chair- including Winter. I am always picking it up.

It has a satin finish ( now 'semigloss' from wear), is a cheaper Martin, so I've never babied it, but rather played the heck out of it.

So in Winter, there are buzzing issues on the 12th fret only, of the G string (terrible place for that, as I play a lot of Bluegrass and blues lead in G/E/D etc.)

I try to humidify the guitar by putting it in its case with a humidifier, but it's never more than a few days, then back out.
( it's also on its 3rd set of frets, which are low/wearing)

I try to have 'no acoustic! weeks' so I can humidify both acoustics, play electrics only.
But it never lasts, the Martin comes back out! It is just a fantastic player. I may love it more than my wife! I said it! ( not really, 43 years married)

( I'm better with the Blueridge as it is maybe more premium, 28-style, new- it stays in the case mostly; ready for gigs)

Message to OP, just play, play, play, any guitar.

 

[tbp0701]

Sounds like it all worked out for the best. I am an acoustic guitar/acoustic music fan. I sold all my electric instruments and amps a few years back. I have never regretted that decision, actually it is the best musical decision I ever made.

If you are thinking about a nylon string, here is a cool video on them the whole trip and buying a guitar would be cheaper than many Collings guitars.

That looks very cool and would be a fun trip. I was looking at the Taylor Academy version. I've never owned a Taylor but really liked those I tried in the past.

And for Collings prices, I'm surprised how much they've increased. I bought mine used/mint for $2,400, which is now the price of some production Teles. I sold it for a fair amount more, just about enough to counter the loss I took on a G&L.

Silk&steel strings won't sound superb, but they may help get your fingers back into shape a little more gradually. I would start with a new setup to ensure best playability. If it was stored at full-tension, the action may be a little high, and the saddle may need to be dropped.

Thanks. I think I should be okay. I'm doing much better with it today (and lightly fingerpicking it while watching a movie last night). A setup may be a good idea, but the luthier I used is in semi-retirement, and I don't know of others in the area.

 

[Boreas]

A setup may be a good idea, but the luthier I used is in semi-retirement, and I don't know of others in the area.

It isn't too difficult on an acoustic.

1. Check neck angle with a straightedge. Ideally the neck should point to the top of the bridge plate. Too deep into the base plate and it may need a neck reset.
2. Check relief. I just use the strings fretted at the 1st and 14th frets. There shouldn't be a big gap between the middle of the string and the frets. Get the relief set if needed - typically requires a long Allen wrench.
3. Check nut slot height. Fret strings with a capo at the third fret. Should be enough space to slide a business card in between the 1st fret and the string. This measurement is likely OK unless you changed string gauges drastically.
4. If all of the above check out OK, then you check action (string height over frets at 12th fret using a gauge or feeler gauges. If it seems excessive, you can likely sand material from the bottom of the saddle to lower the strings - assuming the saddle is still standing pretty tall.

Semi-retirement doesn't mean much - believe me! If your luthier can't do it, he likely can recommend someone who can. Or ask Martin Guitars for the nearest authorized repair facility and they should be able to do it.

If you want to learn how to do the setup yourself, @Freeman Keller and others here can help you through the proper sequence/process.

 

[tbp0701]

It isn't too difficult on an acoustic.

1. Check neck angle with a straightedge. Ideally the neck should point to the top of the bridge plate. Too deep into the base plate and it may need a neck reset.
2. Check relief. I just use the strings fretted at the 1st and 14th frets. There shouldn't be a big gap between the middle of the string and the frets. Get the relief set if needed - typically requires a long Allen wrench.
3. Check nut slot height. Fret strings with a capo at the third fret. Should be enough space to slide a business card in between the 1st fret and the string. This measurement is likely OK unless you changed string gauges drastically.
4. If all of the above check out OK, then you check action (string height over frets at 12th fret using a gauge or feeler gauges. If it seems excessive, you can likely sand material from the bottom of the saddle to lower the strings - assuming the saddle is still standing pretty tall.

Semi-retirement doesn't mean much - believe me! If your luthier can't do it, he likely can recommend someone who can. Or ask Martin Guitars for the nearest authorized repair facility and they should be able to do it.

If you want to learn how to do the setup yourself, @Freeman Keller and others here can help you through the proper sequence/process.

Very helpful. Thanks.