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I hate double sided tape

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Collin D Plonker, Oct 17, 2020.

  1. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    I'll tell another double sticky tape story. I build mostly acoustic guitars and I had neared the end of one, one of the last steps is to glue the bridge in place. I had built a nice little wood caul to distribute the clamping pressure to the inside of the top but it just wasn't staying in place while I aligned the bridge, got the clamps in place, tightened everything down. The darn caul kept moving around inside the guitar so I got the bright idea of sticking it in place with a piece of double stick tape.

    Worked beautifully, clamped the bridge in place with four of my nice deep clamps, gave them all an extra turn to make sure they were really tight. Next day I took the clamps off and reached inside the sound hole to pop the caul out. It wouldn't budge. It was (almost) permanently taped to the top. Almost....
     
  2. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity

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    I did exactly the same thing... while working on a very, very, very expensive classical guitar... when I tried to remove it, I could hear the insider surface of the top, the soundboard, beginning to crack... :eek: .. jury rigged a support to hold a bridge heater blanket in place on it inside the guitar while it warmed the adhesive on the tape.... sweating bullets all the way... worked perfectly though...

    r
     
  3. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    ^^^ I don't feel so bad now. I also directed some heat inside at the caul , then managed to reach inside with a thin pallet knife and work it under the edge of the caul. With enough wiggling I finally managed to get it loose.

    IMG_1236.JPG
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2020
  4. pshupe

    pshupe Tele-Meister

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    Double sided tape works for me and I use the really thin stuff. 3M carpet tape. The secret is to still use the painters tape on both surfaces. It is exactly the same as using the CA glue trick but with double sided tape. The CA glue could work just as well, I think, but I just have not experimented with it about quantity to use and wait time etc. Both methods can work extremely well. I hold down most things with the double sided tape with the painters tape on my CNC machine and as long as I clean the surface and burnish the tape down there are no issues.

    Cheers Peter.
     
  5. kingvox

    kingvox Tele-Meister

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    "WK KAIWO Double Sided Heavy Duty Carpet Tape, for Carpet to Floor and Rug to Carpet Applications,Multi Purpose Tape, Residue-Free,2 Inch x 40 Yards"

    Copy-pasted from Amazon. I've been using this stuff for a year now and find it much, much more reliable than the thinner double stick tape. It is very strong.

    Never heard of the CA glue and tape method. So you use painter's tape under the template and on the bottom of the template, and use a small amount of superglue to fix it in place. Interesting. I may have to try this next time I work on something important. Always up for learning new tips and tricks.

    I will use dowels when feasible -- toothpicks or bamboo skewers. I have a few templates I made that rely on this. Double stick tape the template, put the dowels into the workpiece, and then lower the template onto the dowels. Not only does it center it perfect, but the dowels provide rock-solid contact. Between the double stick tape and the dowels between both pieces, there is no way for the template to shift even a little bit.

    Another thing I'll mention: if you're not using the CA glue method or are worried about something being secure, try using the Stewmac plunge router base, and one of those Amana 1/8" shank, 1/4" guide bearing bits in your Dremel. I usually use my Colt router for the entire rout. But if you're really, really paranoid, the Dremel tool is so much smaller and lighter, it's very unlikely to make the template slip, even if the double stick tape is not the strongest.

    You can simply go 1/4" deep with the Dremel, so you can use the actual rout as the template, and finish it to depth with your trim router or full sized router. Yes, it takes a little longer, but if it's a critical job and you don't want to mess it up, better safe than sorry. With trim or full sized routers I find it very easy to apply way more force than you actually need to, in order for the bearing to butt up against the template. With the Dremel tool, you can go slow and cut the bare minimum with the smallest possible force against the template.

    Personally I prefer mylar film for protecting the finish of the guitar from the router base. Tape is OK but mylar film is reusable and also much more protective. I've made a number of mylar film protectors for protecting set neck body tops during fretwork, among other things. It's great stuff.
     
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