I Don’t Understand Footswitches

Discussion in 'Modeling Amps, Plugins and Apps' started by soulgeezer, Jul 15, 2020.

  1. soulgeezer

    soulgeezer Poster Extraordinaire

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    So, I bought a Katana 50 amp thinking it would work with the footswitch from my Traynor YCV40WR. Well, it doesn’t. Even though the Katana says it needs a dual latching switch and the Traynor says it is a dual latching switch, it doesn’t work.

    Can anybody explain this to me? I really don’t understand what the issue could be.

    I guess not all latching switches are the same? It’s very confusing. Can anybody shed some light?

    in the meantime, I’m shopping for a used FS-6, which is the switch Boss specifies for this amp. I just hate the idea of spending half what I paid for the amp to buy a freaking foot switch, y’know?
     
  2. aging_rocker

    aging_rocker Tele-Holic

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    Strange, that should work. Does the Traynor footswitch cable have a TRS (stereo) plug on it? It needs that.

    I built myself a footswitch for my Kat50 - 2 latching footswitches, a 1/4 socket and a box to mount them in, plus a TRS cable with 1/4 jack plugs.

    Cost about $20, half an hour of my time and it works fine.
     
  3. tubejockey

    tubejockey Tele-Holic

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    Some footswitches have LEDs on them which can effect the way the thing works. Older Fender style switches just short a signal to ground. Newer ones use all sorts of different schemes to switch logic flip-flops, relays, etc. Both types can be described as "dual latching". The latching part just means "not momentary".
     
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  4. Ess Eff

    Ess Eff Tele-Holic

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    It might also be the center vs ring wiring.

    I have seen a foot switch that has all the options - center/ring swap, latching/momentary, monetary NO/NC (Normally open/normally closed).

    So many variables in something as simple as a switch?
    .
     
  5. Peegoo

    Peegoo Friend of Leo's

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    There is no industry standard.

    Find a schematic for your amp and it will show you the kind of switching you need to make it work.
     
  6. soulgeezer

    soulgeezer Poster Extraordinaire

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    Yes, I'm using a TRS cable. I checked and there are two black rings. So, TRS.

    Yes, the Traynor has lights on it, one of which lights when the button is pushed and it's connected to the Katana. But, nothing else happens. It just lights on that one channel on the switch.

    The switch and cable both work fine, when connected to the Traynor amp. So, I'm thinking there's some circuit design issue keeping the Traynor pedal from working. The FS-6 has a "polarity" switch that has to be set for it to work with the Katana. Maybe the Traynor is the opposite "polarity"? I think this means open vs. closed. If one is open and the other switch is closed, then it wouldn't work, right?

    I've also read that one of the firmware updates killed basic unpowered (the FS-6 needs a battery to work; I don't know why) latching switches. I installed the latest update last night. Maybe Boss made a decision to limit it to their own pedal in the programming somehow?

    This stuff is very confusing. I bit the bullet and spent half the price of the amp on a used FS-6. We'll see what happens when it gets here next week. Oy.
     
  7. Peegoo

    Peegoo Friend of Leo's

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    Some modern Fenders use not open/closed switching, but voltage polarity via diodes in the multi-button switch. It makes multiple control options switchable via a single TRS cable. I built a switch like this for my Super Champ XD years ago.

    This may be what the polarity switch is for on the Boss unit.
     
  8. soulgeezer

    soulgeezer Poster Extraordinaire

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    Yeah, the foot switch jack is also the expression pedal jack. So, I'm thinking there's more going on there than meets the eye.
     
  9. Bella

    Bella Tele-Meister

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    I bought the Hosa FSC-385 dual latching f/s and a TRS cable for my girlfriend's Katana 50 last month. It's very sturdy, costs about 20 bucks new, and works as expected. Switch 1 changes between ch1 and ch2, and switch 2 changes Banks.

    Only potential downside is that there are no LEDs , but I'm used to f/s's without them anyway and she has adapted to it fine (the Katana's channel buttons will still light up when switching channels and the Panel light button will change between on and off when switching banks. If I recall, Panel light OFF = Bank 1 and Panel light ON = Bank 2).
     
  10. soulgeezer

    soulgeezer Poster Extraordinaire

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    Good tip -- Thanks
     
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  11. Bella

    Bella Tele-Meister

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    She has the Katana 50 v2 and the f/s worked without any additional needs. I dunno what version you have, but I've read it also works with the original Katana 50, but that you may need to upgrade the firmware for it to access all 4 presets. I can't speak to the truth of that but throwing it out out there for ya just in case.
     
  12. soulgeezer

    soulgeezer Poster Extraordinaire

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    Yeah, mine's the version 1. It seems to behave differently than the MkII, if the Internet is to be believed.
     
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  13. 11 Gauge

    11 Gauge Doctor of Teleocity

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  14. soulgeezer

    soulgeezer Poster Extraordinaire

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    Yeah, based on comments here, it seems like the LEDs are probably the issue. Oh, well. I've already ordered the FS-6, used, for half the cost of the amp. I'm kicking myself, because I'm a cheapskate and I really wanted the Traynor switch to work.

    But, even at $150 for amp + switch, it's still a great deal. I just have OCD when it comes to getting a good deal and I feel like overpaid for the switch. (Mostly because I missed out on one that cost $10 less on eBay the night before; I don't know why I hesitated, but it was gone when I went back to buy it. Ten bucks isn't going to make or break me, but I've been obsessively kicking myself ever since for being an idiot and not pressing the Buy It Now button. You know what they say, "He who hesitates is lost... :( )
     
  15. 11 Gauge

    11 Gauge Doctor of Teleocity

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    I actually wouldn't be that aggravated over it, because a good footswitch will be with you for a lifetime, and can be used with other amps, too.

    ...When I rebuilt my Marshall to be more of a classic model, I no longer needed the footswitch, because I rebuilt it to be a single channel, w/o reverb. I tossed the footswitch up on the shelf, and it sat there for a decade and a half. But since it has dual latching switches, I didn't get rid of it, figuring that I might end up using it again. And the thing is a serious bulletproof brick, since it was made back in the early 80's.

    The FS-6 will probably be something to hold onto for a lifetime. First of all, it should have legendary Boss durability. Secondly, you can configure each switch to be either momentary or latching, which adds a whole lot of flexibility.
     
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  16. soulgeezer

    soulgeezer Poster Extraordinaire

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    I agree that the FS-6 is by no means a bad purchase, as it is a very versatile and useful tool. I'm just annoyed that I let a good deal go past me. I don't know why I always think I can do just a little bit better, if I just wait it out. I've lost a couple of really good deals that way!

    Usually, I just let it pass. This time, I actually needed the pedal. So, I had to pay up. I should have just jumped when I saw he better deal. Oh, well -- Lesson learned!
     
  17. soulgeezer

    soulgeezer Poster Extraordinaire

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    The FS-6 arrived today and it works perfectly. The seller said it was in very good condition. It has the original undamaged box, all the paperwork, the original plastic bag inside the box, the original battery which seems to have never been plugged in, and there’s not a mark anywhere on the pedal. If this is very good, I’d like to see perfect!

    It’s nice when sellers actually understate condition and show a little integrity, y’know?

    Take a look:

    72782DEA-BBD8-45D0-9969-3ADFE5A96F95.jpeg

    Nice, eh? :)
     
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