I applied transtint to maple. It’s a little dark. Should I sand it?

[bassplayer82]

I applied Transtint to my maple neck. The color is a bit darker and more orange than my test. I’d like to lighten it slightly. Would sanding help? What grit? I’ll be adding a couple thin coats of tru oil afterwards.

Pics attached

 

[Freeman Keller]

Assuming you haven't sealed it try pulling some of the stain back out of the wood with s cloth dampened with your solvent (water or DNA). Sanding tends to remove surface stain but not what has been absorbed by the woodl

 

[Boreas]

I agree with Freeman. Light sanding will often yield an uneven result. Regardless of what you do, you may need to add stain again. Just cut it by half again.

 

[bassplayer82]

Assuming you haven't sealed it try pulling some of the stain back out of the wood with s cloth dampened with your solvent (water or DNA). Sanding tends to remove surface stain but not what has been absorbed by the woodl

Thanks it’s helped a lot. The curvy area of the heel is still dark though and I know why. I had read you can pull back color when you apply Transtint by using DNA. When I was applying Transtint, that area blotched and I applied a small amount of DNA on a cotton pad. That was several hours ago so I’m guessing the alcohol sealed the wood.

what if I sand the curvy area of the heel to bare wood and re-apply my Transtint—after diluting it with more water? I could pull back color with water after.

 

[pypa]

No the alcohol doesnt seal the dye. It’s probably darker because there is end grain there and it absorbs more than side grain.

The way to remove dye is to apply more dna and attempt to draw it out.

Contrary to intuition and internet lore, dye and stain doesn’t penetrate that deeply. It can be planed or scraped off. Sanding isn’t always aggressive enough.

Beware that once the dye is dry, it will be way more muted than once you top coat it.

 

[Freeman Keller]

What pypa said. When I stain wood I keep a rag wetted with the DNA and keep working with it to get the results I want. I also use alcohol as the solvent to dilute my stains and I make them quite dilute -one of two drops of dye in an ounce of alcohol. Its easy to add more, hard to take it away. The other thing to remember about stains (as opposed to tinted finish) it that the wood absorbs it at different rates, end grain and figured grain (flame, quilt etc)) will absorb a lot more than side grain. If you decide to sand I would suggest removing enough wood to pretty much remove all of the stain. Your oil finish will also add some amber.

 

[pypa]

Also beware that typically a “stain” contains a binder which does seal the pigment in the stain in the wood. This is why it’s not that effective to apply multiple coats of a pigment stain.

But a “dye” - which Transtint is - typically doesn’t contain a binder.

 

[Freeman Keller]

Also beware that typically a “stain” contains a binder which does seal the pigment in the stain in the wood. This is why it’s not that effective to apply multiple coats of a pigment stain.

But a “dye” - which Transtint is - typically doesn’t contain a binder.

I use the term "stain" to mean changing the color of the wood itself by means of a liquid that is absorbed into the wood fiber as opposed to "tint' which means the color is in the finish itself. Both can show the wood grain. A "dye" is the concentrated color that can be diluted with an evaporative liquid to make a "stain" or with a finish to tint it. There are combinations and often people mix up the terminology, but that is the way it was explained to me and I try to use that terminology.

 

[TheFuzzDog]

What is DNA?

 

[schmee]

It looks fine to me.

 

[bassplayer82]

I sanded the heel area and then applied a heavily diluted mix of Transtint and water. Happy with the result. I’ve since applied two thin coats of tru oil.

I knew I’d have a witness line by the headstock. wondering if there’s a way to fade it… say by sanding the area on the other side of the witness line slightly. Any tips? Or better to quit now? Witness line is more noticeable in person than in this pic.

 

[RobRiggs]

What is DNA?

De-natured alcohol

 

[pypa]

I use the term "stain" to mean changing the color of the wood itself by means of a liquid that is absorbed into the wood fiber as opposed to "tint' which means the color is in the finish itself. Both can show the wood grain. A "dye" is the concentrated color that can be diluted with an evaporative liquid to make a "stain" or with a finish to tint it. There are combinations and often people mix up the terminology, but that is the way it was explained to me and I try to use that terminology.

Sorry freeman. I wasn’t trying to be smart. It’s just that the “stain” we might buy at Home Depot is a different beast that some may not assume is any different from the Transtint.

 

[Freeman Keller]

Sorry freeman. I wasn’t trying to be smart. It’s just that the “stain” we might buy at Home Depot is a different beast that some may not assume is any different from the Transtint.

Not a problem. This is an area where people use different terms for the same thing and the same terms for different things. I try to be consistent with my useage - berry juice might stain my fingers, we dye easter eggs or clothe, paint our houses. I think it is important when we talk about methods of application.

What is DNA?

Denatured alcohol. Concentrated trans(parent)tint dye such as Colortone can be diluted in either water or alcohol - there are advantages to each. I mostly use alcohol fro mine, it doesn't raise grain like water does and is compatible with the finishes I use.

 

[surge98]

I'm a few weeks late on this one, but a pre-stain conditioner will solve almost all of your issues when staining blotch-prone woods. I consider it a mandatory step when staining maple. The Minwax water-based formula works very well for any dye/stain that is not oil-based.