Hybrid finish

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by TX_Slinger, Oct 20, 2019.

  1. TX_Slinger

    TX_Slinger TDPRI Member

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    Not a fan of campy relic jobs but wanted to do something interesting to this plywood body on my import copy. The finish is just too clean. Was thinking a cool effect would be to add forearm and belly cuts which would expose the layers of ply which I'd seal back up. Option#2, Sand down sides exposing ply but leaving front finish intact...image 1 is mine, other images for reference...

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Mr. Neutron and neilybob100 like this.
  2. Silverface

    Silverface Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    Not my preference, but whatever floats your boat. FWIW it may take some creative work with paste wood filler - multiple applications, progressively thinner - to avoid gaps, bubbles and outgassing.
     
  3. RodeoTex

    RodeoTex Poster Extraordinaire

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    What's the Tele pic for?
     
  4. harold h

    harold h Friend of Leo's

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    I agree.

    There is a reason the companies put solid paint over those plywood
    bodies.

    Those layers showing just scream "My body is plywood".
     
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  5. etype

    etype Tele-Afflicted

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    Exposed plywood edges worked for the Eameses!

    That being said, there is a difference between void-free Appleply or Baltic Birch and construction grade plywood.


    [​IMG]
     
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  6. EsquireOK

    EsquireOK Friend of Leo's

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    It'll look lame IMO.

    I'd start by steel wooling the entire body to make it matte. That step alone can sometimes appear to "class up" an overly plasticky looking finish. And if you don't like it, you can always restore the gloss by buffing, either all the way or only part of the way.
     
  7. hopdybob

    hopdybob Tele-Afflicted

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    and that is not always a bad thing.
    i had a hondo strat, great strat sounds with plywood.
    plywood and plywood are not always the same quality.
    but i recon that a good plywood, read a lot of layer good pressed, like the ones on this picture could get a better sound than a cheap and soft piece of wood.
    but that is my 2 cents
     
  8. Jim_in_PA

    Jim_in_PA Tele-Holic Ad Free Member

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    This is absolutely true...exposed multi-ply edges are best served by high quality materials because any fillers are going to jump out like a clown from a storm drain...
     
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  9. Silverface

    Silverface Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    Funny, that''s how I FEEL today!

    :lol:
     
  10. TX_Slinger

    TX_Slinger TDPRI Member

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    The Tele pic is my guitar. I'm thinking "embrace the ghetto" with this mod.
     
  11. MrGibbly

    MrGibbly Tele-Afflicted

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    Scary...that’d make a good concept for a horror movie...clowns, storm drains.
     
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  12. jvin248

    jvin248 Poster Extraordinaire

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    .

    Save some time, find yourself a black pickguard to put on there. Or an old vinyl record to cut out and use as a pickguard and control plate. If you ever might sell it later, buyers are frightened of plywood and ceramic magnets when those don't matter but they were the visible items on the old guitars that played poorly (because of retched fretwork).


    I'd put a 4-way switch in it to cover humbucker tones and rotate the control plate 180 deg for V-T-Switch to the rear. Roll the fretboard edges. Make the whole guitar a satin feel with 800 grit sandpaper done just enough to break the shine not wear through the top clear coat. It will feel like a guitar you've played for decades. If you decide to sell then just use higher grit sandpaper and then polish to get the shine back.


    If intent on a relic job, find the Fender Custom Shop Heavy Relic pages at the Fender website to use as a template of where and how to damage the guitar with excessive sandpapering.
    And don't just damage to damage, the relic work should be worn in so no sharp paint chips or splintered wood to jab you while handling the guitar. You can always over-spray white or black with a rattle can and then sand that back to reveal the burst. And if you later get tired of that look you can strip off the rattle can color.


    The LP here is a 1970 MIJ Global model with a plywood body. The body and neck are the only orginal items, it was trashed when I got it. I left the finish.
    [​IMG]

    This is my Relic guitar. It was also a mess when I got it, sharp paint chips and splintery gouges made by prior owners trying their hand at a relic job. I used the advice I gave above on this. I think this started as a Jackson or Charvel import model. Frets were terrible and it's unplayability caused the prior owners to relic it. I leveled the frets, replaced the broken nut, used hammered machine paint on the headstock as what was there looked terrible and no logo anyway. The body color and wear patches they did are actually the inverse of what the natural relic pattern gets done. But it is what it is.
    [​IMG]

    The trick with a relic is it needs to play flawlessly and easily, be comfortable like a favorite pair of jeans, and give you freedom to play it/dig in/and get your real tones out of it.

    .
     
  13. Fretting out

    Fretting out Tele-Afflicted

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    I don’t have anything to add about finishing but that it reference is just great!
     
  14. TX_Slinger

    TX_Slinger TDPRI Member

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    I've already upgrade the essentials including tonerider PU's. It sounds great and I don't want a traditional relic job. Looking at the body in the cavities, it appears not to have any nasty voids in the ply, pretty good grade of whatever they used.[​IMG][​IMG]
     
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