HR DeVille cuts out, then is fine

ddewerd

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I have a 2x12 HR DeVille, maybe 7 or 8 years old. Not beat up or road worn (yet!)

Sometimes when I turn it on, it will pass a signal, and then just fade out with a bit of crackle.

I usually turn it on but have it in standby for a while, but this doesn't seem to matter. If I just let the amp sit for 5 or 10 minutes, not on standby, then everything is fine, I can play for hours with no problems.

I am pretty sure it has the stock tubes, although years ago I had a similar (but not the same) problem, and a guy fixed it by rearranging the tubes.

I'm not well versed in tube stuff, I just plug in and play. Any words of wisdom or advice? Should I be looking at new tubes? If so, can I just swap them, or should the amp be rebiased? I've never done that, I don't want to mess anything up.

It's not super critical, maybe I just need to have more patience in letting it warm up. But just curious if there might be something else going on.

Thanks for any advice.

Cheers,
Doug
 

Wally

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You may have a problem with a connection in a tube socket. Pull and reinstall the tubes. Use some cleaner on the pins it you have it.
The standby is not necessary. If the amp works well by not using the standby don’t use the standby. Maybe the standby switch has some funky contacts?? Spray that switch with some contact cleaner.
 

Dacious

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Do you use the preamp out, Poweramp in sockets? Try running a cable between jacks. Might just need a clean. These keep connection by spring steel contact. Dust and corrosion builds up over time.

@Wally is also right (cluey guy). Maybe the same preamp tube as last time is going bad..

Worth a clean. Get some non lube cleaner, put it on a cotton bud and work it between the contacts. Ditto the tube pins. Don't spray it in the sockets. Take the tubes out and use the cotton bud and a clean tissue or cloth on the pins.
 
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Happy Enchilada

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Simple solution: Quilter Aviator Cub.
1659916354972.png

Mine delivers bucketloads of pure Fender clean, which is what I used to use my Hot Rod Deluxe for.
No tubes to create problems like this.
Weighs about half of the Hot Rod DeVille.
Can go LOUD 50 Watts ... or down to "bedroom" volume with Wattage selector switch, with SAME TONE.
Plug in your favorite dirt box and it'll sound amazing. Or your multi-FX unit. Or pedalboard.
Goes direct to the PA with a separate volume control for that.
Footprint is just a skosh bigger than Blues Junior.
But the best part is you can dial it down and practice, then dial it up for the gig and sound the same on both.
Or you can find a Quilter amp you love (i.e., Tone Block 202 or Reverb 101) that delivers all this too, and then run it into a cabinet with your favorite speaker (say, Texas Heat) - which is my next project.
Once you get your DeVille working, some schmuck will buy it from you and you'll have more than you need to buy your new Quilter.

Good Luck!
 

BFcaster

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My HR DeVille 2x12 from 1996 (1st edition and with original power tubes) started doing something similar last winter....after all these years with original power tubes from Groove Tubes! This included about 10 years of gigs off and on. Anyways, hoping it wasn't anything other than power tubes, I replaced them with JJ's and problem is gone. That is my experience, YMMV.
 

ddewerd

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Thanks for the suggestions!

I'll reseat the tubes and clean the contacts and see how it goes.

Thanks!

Cheers,
Doug

P.S. no preamp out or power amp in. just straight into the amp from my stomp boxes.
 

Dacious

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P.S. no preamp out or power amp in. just straight into the amp from my stomp boxes.
That's why I suggested cleaning them. They build up dust and film over time when not used. They are like a piece of wire, but when dirty they can act like a resistor. Plugging a patch lead in and out can create a solid connection. If that fixes it there's your issue.

They can work, then as temperature rises the signal is cut as resistance increases when things get hot. The signal is a tiny voltage.

As Wally says, that also applies to the tube pins, sometimes just working in and out is enough.to clean them in their sockets.
 

playforfun

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This happened to my twin it was a bad solder on the board. Thank goodness my tech was patient and just re soldered everything on the board that could be causing the problem. I hope it’s just the tubes.
 

JDB2

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Simple solution: Quilter Aviator Cub.
View attachment 1014427
Mine delivers bucketloads of pure Fender clean, which is what I used to use my Hot Rod Deluxe for.
No tubes to create problems like this.
Weighs about half of the Hot Rod DeVille.
Can go LOUD 50 Watts ... or down to "bedroom" volume with Wattage selector switch, with SAME TONE.
Plug in your favorite dirt box and it'll sound amazing. Or your multi-FX unit. Or pedalboard.
Goes direct to the PA with a separate volume control for that.
Footprint is just a skosh bigger than Blues Junior.
But the best part is you can dial it down and practice, then dial it up for the gig and sound the same on both.
Or you can find a Quilter amp you love (i.e., Tone Block 202 or Reverb 101) that delivers all this too, and then run it into a cabinet with your favorite speaker (say, Texas Heat) - which is my next project.
Once you get your DeVille working, some schmuck will buy it from you and you'll have more than you need to buy your new Quilter.

Good Luck!
Well as a recent Quilter convert who sold his tube amps I’m always tempted to offer this advice in the tube amp forum, but I resist . . .
 
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myfenderissues

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I have a 2x12 HR DeVille, maybe 7 or 8 years old. Not beat up or road worn (yet!)

Sometimes when I turn it on, it will pass a signal, and then just fade out with a bit of crackle.

I usually turn it on but have it in standby for a while, but this doesn't seem to matter. If I just let the amp sit for 5 or 10 minutes, not on standby, then everything is fine, I can play for hours with no problems.

I am pretty sure it has the stock tubes, although years ago I had a similar (but not the same) problem, and a guy fixed it by rearranging the tubes.

I'm not well versed in tube stuff, I just plug in and play. Any words of wisdom or advice? Should I be looking at new tubes? If so, can I just swap them, or should the amp be rebiased? I've never done that, I don't want to mess anything up.

It's not super critical, maybe I just need to have more patience in letting it warm up. But just curious if there might be something else going on.

Thanks for any advice.

Cheers,
Doug
i suspect a resistor going bad. when parts heat up their electrical performance changes. when a resistor starts to fail it can occasionally break the electrical connection and then the amp won't make sound. on a pc board amp that old, i'd have a tech look at it before i started buying new tubes. on their pc board amps, fender uses the smallest rated resistors possible (to save space on the pc board), and though they are 100% in-spec electronically, they aren't as robust as the old designs that used 1/2 watt and up rated resistors throughout the preamp. at 7 years out, depending on how much it's played, the low watt rated parts may be entering their unreliable stage.
 
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Ellen Faye

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If this amp is a reissue, you know its got circuit boards. If there is crackle and a fade out my guess would be a heater connection on a tube in the preamp. The signal will fade as the tube cools and stops conducting. The crackle is the noise of the connection opening. If I had to make just one guess I would look at the phase inverter first. It runs on the same voltage node as the reverb driver and runs hot naturally. Bad solder connection at the socket or the pin connectors have loosened from thermal fatigue. My best guess. The symptom as described is not power tube. To loose all sound both tubes would need to be affected. when it happens again, leave it on and take the rear panel off and see if you can find one tube that's cool(er) Good luck.
 

surfinguitar

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Another 2 components to check are the big ceramic power resistors, I had one go bad in an original blues deluxe, when it got hot the amp would cut out. I opened up the amp and looked around to see if it was something obvious and I notice a hairline crack in one of them. Resistor replaced, amp works great.
 

Ric5150

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Probably not your issue, but the input jacks are plastic and I must have tugged on a cable hard enough to strip the threads (for the nut securing it to the faceplate), so it got wobbly. Had weird intermittents before figuring that out.

That reminds me. It’s been over 5 years since my much younger cousin borrowed it. I should probably stop calling it mine…. ;)
 

John-By-The-Sea

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Possibly a transformer. I had a a Two Rock with the same problem. After checking tubes, connections etc., I took it to a local tech twice, they said it was fine. Sent it to Two Rock twice. First time they couldn’t find anything wrong, the second time they put in a larger transformer, end of problem.
 

Ed Storer

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Get some backup tubes. Matched pair of power tubes and a 12AX7. Try the new power tubes and see if the problem persists; if not, put the originals back in or save them as your backups. Then try the 12AX7 in each of the preamp positions starting with the PI (closest to the power tubes.

You can keep the backup tubes in a padded pouch velcro'd to the inside of the cabinet.
 

DrMorpheus

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I have a 2x12 HR DeVille, maybe 7 or 8 years old. Not beat up or road worn (yet!)

Sometimes when I turn it on, it will pass a signal, and then just fade out with a bit of crackle.

I usually turn it on but have it in standby for a while, but this doesn't seem to matter. If I just let the amp sit for 5 or 10 minutes, not on standby, then everything is fine, I can play for hours with no problems.

I am pretty sure it has the stock tubes, although years ago I had a similar (but not the same) problem, and a guy fixed it by rearranging the tubes.

I'm not well versed in tube stuff, I just plug in and play. Any words of wisdom or advice? Should I be looking at new tubes? If so, can I just swap them, or should the amp be rebiased? I've never done that, I don't want to mess anything up.

It's not super critical, maybe I just need to have more patience in letting it warm up. But just curious if there might be something else going on.

Thanks for any advice.

Cheers,
Doug
I have worked on many of these amps, and the problem I have come to find in most if not all is cold solder on tube sockets, as in the tabs are soldered to the board, as well as the crappy input jacks, as not like what was once used which were Switchcraft, and DEPENDABLE! My first run in was back in 1980 and the first Mesa amps had soldered the power tubes to the circuit board and they failed in a very short time, I called Bogie and they changed the soldering to the board to using wires to the board and that cured the problem. So, I would go through and re-solder everything, as sometimes in assembly they can be poorly soldered. Hope this helps! Cheers from Toronto Canada
 

radguitars

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I have worked on many of these amps, and the problem I have come to find in most if not all is cold solder on tube sockets, as in the tabs are soldered to the board, as well as the crappy input jacks, as not like what was once used which were Switchcraft, and DEPENDABLE! My first run in was back in 1980 and the first Mesa amps had soldered the power tubes to the circuit board and they failed in a very short time, I called Bogie and they changed the soldering to the board to using wires to the board and that cured the problem. So, I would go through and re-solder everything, as sometimes in assembly they can be poorly soldered. Hope this helps! Cheers from Toronto Canada
Yep, the board mounted Input jack solder joints are most likely the real culprit here. They see a lot of stress from the cable being push and pulled in and out.

Take off all the knobs and unbolt the pots and do your best to drop the board down from the chassis. It takes some force and finesse but it will drop down. Than reheat and resolder the terminals on the input jacks That should be all that’s required imho.
 




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