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How would you approach this color?

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by chillman, Mar 1, 2020.

  1. chillman

    chillman Tele-Afflicted

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    I'm starting another tele build after being tele-less for years. I have a specific vision in mind, and it includes getting as close to this color as I can:

    [​IMG]

    It's a Lexus color called Fire Agate Pearl, and it really wowed me when I saw one in the grocery store parking lot. It's a sort of chocolate metalflake with an iridescent spectrum from taupe to oxblood.

    I'm looking for advice on the application, or feedback on my current plan, which is:

    • Black base coat
    • Root beer metalflake coat
    • Red or gold pearl clear coat?
    My main question is in the pearl. I've never used pearl before, and I'm tempted to skip it. A tele is flat, and pearl is most noticeable in contours.

    I would be using basic SW Lo-VOC lacquer, not automotive urethanes.

    Any advice?
     
  2. old wrench

    old wrench Tele-Afflicted

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    It sounds like you've got your own spray rig, since you're using LoVoc.

    My suggestion is to use real Fire Agate Pearl; if it's only available in urethane, so be it.

    I think that's the only realistic way of getting that same color with the pearl effect.

    I've found that pearls will make any flaws in a painters technique (like, my own;)) show up pretty quickly :).
     
    eallen likes this.
  3. Buckocaster51

    Buckocaster51 Super Moderator Staff Member Ad Free Member

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    You could go to an automotive paint supplier and get a pint of base coat... that is why they open their doors in the morning
     
  4. Silverface

    Silverface Poster Extraordinaire Platinum Supporter

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    Pearls aren't hard to spray - with practice. Like any unfamiliar coating you should apply the ENTIRE system on scrap several times to refine your technique and learn how products interact. A single product in a 4 or 5 product system can change the way another product not even in direct contact with it will affect the overall look.

    One tip - I never use pearlescent additive in the clear coats. I use them in toners orr in the initial clear coat, with several straight clears over it. Buffing can really foul the look of a pearl if the pigment is in the final coat; and because lacquers melt into each other it's best to do the best job possible and do NO wet sanding - just buffing.

    Any pearl pulled into the final clear coats can really be screwed up by wet sanding, which is actually a repair process except with certain systems. Most lacquers finishes should not be wet sanded unless mistakes were made in application. No professional finishers I know wet sand (except when doing certain vintage type Gibson finishes, which take years of experience). I even use aerosol's for small jobs or when I'm lazy and don;'t want to pull out one of the HVLP's, and I haven't wet sanded in years.
     
    dan40 likes this.
  5. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

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    100% right on, it often takes someone unfamiliar with finishing products more than a few attempts to get to this way of thinking and ability (it did for me). I use to swear getting the perfect coat without wet sanding was like seeing a Unicorn, now not so much. Prep as always is key to a great finish.
     
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