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Discussion in 'Vintage Tele Discussion Forum (pre-1974)' started by Lotion12, Oct 7, 2019.
Love the guitar, but those are some huge frets compared to my '68.
Absolutely indeed, but as i read fender used that frets on some guitars . If not as i said i d be thankful and go replace frets
Bot of those are refrets, as far as I can tell.
I have no hesitation getting vintage guitars refretted if they need it - but get it done by an expert. The only exception would be a museum piece, especially with a bound neck.
Even a 68 neck should be a maple cap board neither of those are?
I believe 68 was the transition year for the maple cap neck, though I have never actually seen a one piece 68 neck. The bridge is not original either. It looks like a Mastery bridge at first glance, which is a wonderfully designed unit, but not original.
I have had a ‘68 Thinline with mahogany body and a one piece maple neck...not a capped board. I don’t care to speculate on anything about a refret, but I will say that the black discoloration near the fret slots gives me pause because I have had to deal with black rot when resurrecting a ‘54 Strat. I would want to see better pics of the top of the board to see is the board still has a seal provided by the finish on the board. If not, then the guitar has been refrett3d and done so in a non-professional manner.
When I was working that ‘54 Strat, I found that the slots in the middle of the board would not hold frets due to black rot of the maple. Not only were those slots blackrotted, but the truss Rod was inactive with excessive backbone...7 playable below the 6th fret. I saved the neck. Interestingly, Clapton’s Blackie was in a shop in England for a long time with the same black rot problem.
fwiw, that Strat was number 0729. I have been told that it is on the market....the complete restoration might fool someone at this point since it was done over 20 years ago
If any guitar is played with any frequency, you will have to have it refretted within a few years. Most people go with a slightly larger fret so long as the fretboard radius allows it(comfort). Guitars are a tool and at some time will require some maintenance. I get a little annoyed when people try to treat their guitars as if it was some rare artifact. Use them an enjoy them I say.
@Wally its amazing how much fret slots can affect a guitars action over all isn't it. Would love to have seen that resto you did, and who had blackie do you know ? Was it Charlie chandler?
How do you go about treating the Black rot and make the neck stable again ?
I don’t quite understand the first statement. As l9ng as slots hold frets, they have done their job. They have nothing to do with action as long as the fret job does not render the neck unplayable...and that can happen I suppose if someone does not understand what they are doing.
Re: the second post there... the black rot has to be removed and replaced with new wood. Then fret slots are re-established.
How does one return a neck to usefulness after the truss rod has become inactive and the line of neck is compromised? One understands how the neck/truss rod work together and return the neck to a properline during the Refret.
All I know about Clapton’s guitar is that it was in a shop in England. It got repaired before it was sold as part of the auction that benefitted his facility down in the Caribbean.
I just meant incorrectly cut slots can result in a back bow.
Do you take the whole board off and add a cap or just inserts under each fret? .
And I presume you mean levelling the fret s under tension on a jig ?
I am not going to go into an instructional session of necks, truss rods and regretting. I was trained on the original neck tension jig bench. i don’t see how incorrectly cut slots can a know a neck. Installing frets with tangs that are too,large for the slots can do all sorts of things. Don Teeter explains in his book how to revert necks that do not have adjustable truss rods. One can fret a neck that has proper relief without disturbing that line....or one could ruin the line...even using frets with proper tangs. One can correct a bad line in such a neck with different fret installation order.
and no....the neck was not corrected after it was fretted.That would not have worked because the problem was too severe. The resurrection of that guitar and saving of the neck would be worth a large amount of money....a surprising portion of what the finished guitar is worth. Today that would be thousands of dollars in hours spent. Here is a picture of some old pictures from way back....
Ok no problem thank you , whats the name and isbn of that book please if you have it to hand would like to read that , you seem very experienced so will take on board what your saying . Im in no way arguing with you. That's what I meant if the slots aren't cut right for the tang can result in problems .
Read anything you can find by Don Teeter and Dan Erlewine. I trained in the shop that was owned by Erlewine when the neck tension jig was ‘perfected’. Teeter was the first to address the neck in a similar manner. I trained in the shop that was bought from Erlewine by the fellow who had worked with Dan for five years. And.....the situation with that Strat neck is one which will not come around often. Tricky.....guitar work is that way. Sometimes the problem may never present itself again.
Yeah i ve the original bridge . Mastery is wonderful
So what do you say guys is it refretted or not ?
i think it has bigger frets and it makes truss rod useless. The neck is too strait. Even if i use 0.12 s I think larger frets causes this.
@Wally thank you will do , just getting back into the luthier side of things Dan erlewine of course ive heard of , must have been amazing working along side people like that . Would have loved to have seen your work on the strat bet it was very interesting.
I like all that sort of luthier work , replacing wood where routes have been that shouldn't and ground up restorations I find it fascinating the skill s involved and the patience.
It certainly looks re fretted and if tangs are too large then yes can cause relief problems ,its a bit like cutting lots of slots in the back of a piece of wood to make it bend or curve round something, unfortunately if you splay open the slots with tangs that are too big it will have a similar unwanted bending effect ,
I would take it to a respected vintage luthier in your area and get them to take a look .
Might not be that at all .
Have you tried slackening of the truss rod tuning to pitch and then checking the relief and adjusting from there? .
Ordering these of the Bay.