how to satin finish

[copachino]

hi all, i have read about fnishs and cure times leveling the laquer after curing time on the last hand, but after leveling the laquer you need to polish in order to get a nice smooth finish, but that its for a shiny finish, im planning to use Behelen instrument laquer, but how do i get the satin finish i want??

 

[Kennedycaster]

You can hand rub it with 0000 steel wool & mineral oil after you level it with 600 grit. Done properly, a hand rubbed lacquer finish produces a beautiful, level, satin sheen. There is a process that should be followed, but it's not hard & it doesn't take long at all. Google how to do a hand rubbed lacquer finish.

Bob

 

[Vizcaster]

There are two ways to get a satin finish, and with both of them you want to make sure you've level-sanded to get out any orangepeel texture leaving a flat surface.

The first way is to use a satin lacquer, generally at the sealer stage to build a film. The satin laquer has a 'flattener' or fine powder suspended in it to refract light and give the satin appearance. Some finishers use gloss on top of that for predictable results rubbing it out, some use satin topcoat depending on the brand/system.

The second way can be difficult to get uniform over large surfaces (ask a piano shop how much they'd charge to take a gloss piano finish to a hand-rubbed satin), but involves some abrasive used to rub the finish after it has been sanded level. In other words instead of a buffer for your last step you use exceptionally fine steel wool (or a felt block and pumice and mineral oil). Either way it's done when the finish is cured and sanding gives you a fine white powder without gumming up the paper too much.

 

[Wally]

I don't care for satin finishes on instruments because the 'satin' will polish out as the surfaces come into repetitive contact with the body and arms and hands. I so kind of like the patina of a buffed satin finish guitar, though.....it looks like an old guitar that hasn't been abused but has never been polished.
YMMV...

 

[seekir]

...the 'satin' will polish out as the surfaces come into repetitive contact with the body and arms and hands.

This is true, it happened on my satin-finished Takamine Santa Fe, but it's not difficult to de-buff the shiny areas that show up if they bother you, especially if you are the original finisher and still have the pumice, compound, or steel wool that you used to make the satin finish. Some might actually like the road-worn effect of shiny areas I suppose. I do like the slidey feel of satin finishes though I've never deliberately done it to shiny guitars. I know many people do it to neck backs.

 

[Wally]

And every time one 'ruffs' up that polished area to take it back to a dulled finish, some finish disappears. Over time, the finish is gone. I buff 'em out and let the finish stay where it was applied for as long as it will stay there. Like I noted....ymmv. Let's face it. I am old school. A good finish is a good, well-applied nitro-celllulose gloss finish for me.

 

[Silverface]

Great comments regarding satin finishes. Unless treated with extreme care the will burnish in spots, resulting in an inconsistent look. Starting with actual satin lacquer is the best way to keep it looking satin longer - but it will still burnish if polished to any degree at all.

 

[Wally]

Here is a 2002 Gibson ES-137P in a satin red finish. There is only one way to keep the original satin finish like this over 13 years.....don't play the guitar. The finish is exactly as it was the day it left the factory....because nothing has rubbed up against the finish because it is an unplayed instrument.
Fwiw, I am considering pinstriping it and applying a gloss nitro finish over the pinstripes....maybe with a pin-up girl??? And a Bigsby? Rockabilly dream. That is if I get the trade for it done, right?
Side note: this guitar should have had P-90's in it. Only the ES-137C's...Classic and Custom models...should have humbuckers, and the C's have glossy nitro finishes.