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How to remove stripped phillips head screw from strap button?

Discussion in 'Tele-Technical' started by Digiplay, Nov 13, 2020.

  1. Digiplay

    Digiplay Tele-Afflicted

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    No nearby Ace Stores :)

    What does Carded mean?

    Amazon has this, so will it work?
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D3WGS1D/?tag=tdpri-20


    Any suggestions on how to cut teeth in the tubing, and will aluminum or other material tubing work?



    Sorry for all the questions!
     
  2. AntoStrummer

    AntoStrummer TDPRI Member

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    I'd go along with cutting your losses and putting a new screw hole in adjacent to the existing, if you drill a plug out you will be hanging your strap off whatever you glue back in.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2020
  3. wolfman2020

    wolfman2020 TDPRI Member

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  4. BlueTele

    BlueTele TDPRI Member

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    Bummer...I have not had to use one myself, but I am aware that a special tool is available to extract the screw. I recently bought some other items from the Stewart McDonald guitar repair website, and as I cruised their website, I saw a cool-concept tool that they created. I am sure others make similar tools, but I just remember that one, thinking “wow, pretty smart idea.” Good luck.
     
  5. schmee

    schmee Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    I've found that certain screwdrivers work with certain screws, even if they are all the same "size". A good clean phillips screwdriver with sharp fresh edges may work. hardened tip variety.
     
  6. Digiplay

    Digiplay Tele-Afflicted

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    UPDATE:


    To those just now coming into this Thread, the strap button is gone, the screw head is gone, and the screw has broken off barely below the surface of the body.
     
  7. lammie200

    lammie200 Friend of Leo's

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    I believe that it means that it is packaged as a card to hang for display purposes.
     
  8. cjp60

    cjp60 Tele-Meister

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    Use the 1/4” screw extractor in post 95 to remove your screw then plug it with a 1/4” dowel, drill new hole for screw in the dowel, install old strap button. The strap button will cover the dowel.
     
  9. Digiplay

    Digiplay Tele-Afflicted

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    Thanks!

    How about any uggestions on how to cut teeth in the tubing, and will aluminum or other material tubing work?
     
  10. lammie200

    lammie200 Friend of Leo's

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    With a file. The tube has to be rigid enough not to crush in your drill chuck. If it crushes it won't spin true. If it were me I would use the 1/4" tool made to do what you need it to do. The felt washer and the strap button should hide the glued in dowel.
     
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  11. Digiplay

    Digiplay Tele-Afflicted

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    There is no felt washer lammie200, and are you saying that as far as strenght, stainless steel is preferred over aluminum or other material tubing?

    On another note, I need to find out the exact size wood screw that the Dunlop strap button uses.
     
  12. lammie200

    lammie200 Friend of Leo's

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    I don't know what tubing will crush in the drill chuck but I am sure that the proper tool won't. I use felt washers under my strap buttons. They are common to protect the finish. I would also just buy new strap buttons so I can be sure to get the correct screws, but if you have the time to hunt for screws that will work with the old strap buttons have at it.
     
  13. npilger

    npilger TDPRI Member

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    Sometimes placing a broad rubber-band over the screw slots provides enough friction to allow the screwdriver to bite in and extract the stripped head. Another option (if you are willing to replace the strap buttons (or clean them out later) is to pack the hole with epoxy - let it cure (carefully not to get any on the finish), then after 36 hours use pliers to 'gently' rotate the strap-lock button (use the rubber band to protect the chrome from scratching and/or slipping). Last resort is to drill the head down and tap the strap button with a rubber mallet, or blcok of wood to snap the top off, then use pliers to carefully extract the rest. If the screwhole gets damaged, a toothpick and some wood glue with fix it up easily. I've had this problem many times with buy and sell guitars.
     
  14. Digiplay

    Digiplay Tele-Afflicted

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    I'm replacing the Dunlops with the original reliced strap buttons lammie200.


    I will have an Irwin cobalt drill bit and Irwin screw extractor (that is designed to remove a 1/8" diameter screw) delivered tomorrow.


    If I can extract the screw, obviously that will be the perfect solution for me, but if not, it seems the hole saw method will be a good alternative.
     
  15. Wallaby

    Wallaby Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

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    This problem is quite a bummer to read about, so sorry.
     
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  16. TeleNutt

    TeleNutt TDPRI Member

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  17. EsquireOK

    EsquireOK Friend of Leo's

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    Why/how did this happen? You were given much good advice on how to avoid this. All you had to do was drill off the head of the screw, then pull the screw with a vice grips. What did you do that broke the screw off in that manner?

    At this point, I would carefully and slowly attempt to drill the screw away to dust where it sits, then dowel the hole.

    To do this, I would grind a flat onto the screw using a Dremel. I would mark a center depression. I would then grind a vee into it with the Dremel, following with a drill bit, going bit by bit by bit, so as not to roast the wood.

    As for what YOU should do…based on your posts here and at earlier dates, I would advise you to probably just drill a new hole 1/32 of an inch over.

    Do not use a run of the mill plug cutter for this job. It’s major overkill, and will do a lot of unnecessary and obvious damage to the guitar.

    I’m telling you, the best option, as you, is to simply leave the screw where it sits, and drill a new hole immediately adjacent to it. One tool required. Almost nothing that can be screwed up. The least affect on the originality and resale value of the guitar. All you have to do is make the right decision to realize your limitations, recognize good advice, and actually follow it.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2020
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  18. Digiplay

    Digiplay Tele-Afflicted

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    Points well taken, and it should never have gotten to this point, NO question about that EsquireOK.

    But as it is as it is now, I like your suggestion to carefully and slowly attempt to drill the screw away to dust where it sits, then dowel the hole!

    Please explain what Dremel attachment do I use to grind a flat onto the screw that is even/slightly below the surface?

    As far as then grinding a vee into the screw with the Dremel, following with a drill bit, going bit by bit by bit, so as not to roast the wood, that I completely understand, so it seems the part I'm missing is what attachment to use on the Dremel to grind a flat and grind a vee as I start to go deeper below the surface, while at the same timing keeping any damage to the body at a minimum?


    BTW, I at least have a Dremel that I purchased about 20 years ago, as well as several attachments for it :)


    Thanks!
    Jerry

    PS
    Why wouldn't simply using a strong/sharp carbide 1/8" bit, and then slowly drilling/grinding away at the screw until it's gone not work?
     
  19. LutherBurger

    LutherBurger Poster Extraordinaire

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    I'm curious about this, too, @Digiplay.
     
  20. Digiplay

    Digiplay Tele-Afflicted

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    I went to Lowe's Sunday looking to buy the SpeedOut, but they didn't have any in stock.

    So the clerk that was in charge of the Tool Department that day suggested buying the Irwin 2-piece (one bit and extractor) Set instead, so I did.

    When I get back home, drilling the pilot hole about 3/8" went as planned, and when I used the extractor bit, in reverse as directed, no matter how long and hard I used it, nothing seemed to happen, or so I thought.

    So I then tried using some pliers on the button to see if I had loosened it any, and with a little grabbing muscle, it came off pretty easy, so I thought I had it made until I saw what was left of the screw :)



    Now here's the punch line!


    I called Irwin and commented that their darn extractor didn't work that good, and when they asked me to give the model number on the packaging, it turns out the Tool Department clerk sold me a Irwin Kit that was a Self-Aligning Tap and Drill Set (it's packaged almost identical to an Extractor Kit), which explains why using the drill in reverse didn't work :)


    And that my friends..............................................................................................


    is the REST of the story!
     
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