How to notch Tune-o-matic saddles?

[max_twang]

I'm going to be putting a new nut (pre-slotted Tusq XL) and bridge (Schaller, Nashville style) on my ES-335 that was recently re-fretted.

The saddles on the bridge are not pre-notched. I've watched a bunch of video how-to's and it seems that many people (especially in the Stew Mac videos) use nut files, while other folks use a small, three-sided file.

If anyone has experience doing this, I'd love to hear pointers. Do I have to shell out for the nut files? The reason I bought a pre-slotted nut was so I didn't have to buy them, as they're pretty speedy, and I doubt I'll use them very often. Will the "vee" cut with a three sided file cause and problems? Is there some other tool that you could use to do the job right?

Thanks for your advice

 

[guitarbuilder]

I would probably use a small round file from a jeweler's set if I didn't have nut files, but I don't think I ever notched a bridge in my life. The strings press down and make a little notch of their own. I've heard of guys using a plastic hammer and tap the string onto the saddle. That sounds like a way to ruin a new string set though...LOL.

 

[Freeman Keller]

On ToM bridges I score the string location with a small (0.010) razor saw just like I do when making a nut. Just a couple of strokes. That should be enough to hold the string from sliding sideways but if I was worried I would take a couple of passes with either a triangular file or nut files - both are hanging right there above my work bench so I could choose either.

The odds are pretty good that your pre slotted nut will require some work - I've never seen on that didn't, so you should have a set of nut files anyway.

 

[Boreas]

You may be able to get by with not adjusting the pre-slotted Tusq nut if you are very careful about sanding the bottom to the proper height. I have done it, but I am not overly-particular about the notches unless they are grabbing. If you don't want to invest in the tools, a luthier can do it for ya. You may get lucky and get it right first try. Or you could over-sand and possibly ruin the nut.

WRT the saddles, many people just get the string spacing exactly where they want it and tap the saddles with a soft hammer or a piece of maple. If that isn't deep enough, then file out the notches with a triangular file.

 

[BFcaster]

Really you're only making the tiniest of a divot. Saddle notches are never (IMHO) as deep as they are one on the nut. The notch/divot is just to keep the string in place, whereas at the nut it's to keep in place and final-adjustment for the string height. Making a drastic notch can create some buzzing on a fretted string past the curve caused by the truss rod (your guitar's action). Therefore, I think even a folded piece of 400-grit sandpaper could do the job. I myself have notched TOM bridges and used my nut files, but remember- it only has to be just enough to keep the string in place.
ALSO- on my TOM bridge for my Epi Sheraton I mis-filed the G string! Since it was the smallest of a divot, I just re-filed a notch at the correct place. So small, you don't even see my screw-up.
AND- the Stew-Mac spacing ruler is invaluable!. There's one or two other manufacturers out there (I think?) and they'd be cheaper, but it's worth it to have.

 

[brookdalebill]

This worked for me.
Your results may vary.
I installed the tune-a-matic on the guitar, and strung it with a new set of strings.
Obviously the gauges I intend to use.
I centered the strings on the saddles, and with a rubber mallet, I “rapped” the string onto the saddle.
It left a tiny indentation on the saddle, which I then finessed with nut files.
Perhaps not for the faint of heart, and you will probably have to dispose of the strings, but it worked beautifully.
Of course, be careful, don’t rap too forcefully.
Buena suerte!

 

[hnryclay]

I do the same as above but with a brass faced watchmakers mallet. It works, and is in the perfect spot. I have done 5 of these over the years never had an issue. Here is the thing, the sting is harder than the bridge, it does not take a lot of force to make the required slot.

 

[max_twang]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

I did see the bit about tapping the string with a hammer to indent the saddle. (The idea is you sacrifice a set of old strings for the job.) From what Dan Erlewine says (and I have no experience to confirm or contradict this, but hey, it's Dan Erlewine so I'm assuming he knows something...) it is "better" to cut the notches a bit deeper to keep the strings in place. I just wasn't sure if a three-sided file would make a notch that would cause problems...

As far as the nut goes, I was hoping that the slots would be properly shaped, and that careful sanding from the back could get it to the proper height. I did this once before with good results.

In retrospect, I should have taken the guitar to the shop that I've used in the past (12th Fret in Portland, OR) to have everything done. They're great, but were so backlogged that I brought it to another "highly regarded" luthier who I had never used before.

The luthier's assistant did the re-fret and left the fret ends pretty rough. I had to buy a fret end file and micro mesh pads to clean up his work. He also removed the original bone nut that was on my vintage ax, and left the edges of the new, bright white plastic nut pretty sharp.

Once I got the guitar back together, I saw that the b-string slot was cut too low, and also that the guitar wouldn't stay in tune. I figured a new, high quality nut was in order, and while I was at it, I thought I'd replace the bridge b/c the chrome was pitted and the saddles were kind of worn.

So that's where I'm at. I have the nut, and I'm awaiting the arrival of the bridge before I take everything apart again. Sheesh. All I wanted was a guitar that played well. I didn't know I'd have a project on my hands...

Thanks again for all the advice. I'll update once I get things fixed (or more likely when I run into problems.)