How to loosen saddle height adjustment screw?

[sloppychops]

My partscaster has Wilkinson brass saddles that were given a relic treatment by the guy who put it together. The low E string sits a little too low for my tastes, but I can't raise the saddle because the adjustment screw won't turn. I think it has rusted in place or something. I've tried putting a drop of 3-in-one oil on both sides of the saddle so it can seep into where the screw sits, but it has had no effect at all.

Can anyone recommend a way to get this screw to loosen? I don't want to force it with a hex wrench because I'm afraid it will just round out on me.

Would heating it with a blow dryer help? Or would that make it worse? Not sure how brass and steel respond to heat...does it expand or shrink?

 

[Freeman Keller]

Brass doesn't "rust" but the steel screws might. A little heat from a propane torch (take the saddle out of the guitar and/or soaking in WD40 might loosen it, if you strip it drill it out and retap or just buy a new saddle.

I guess your relicer did too good a job, eh?

 

[ChrisDowning]

Woah....take it out before trying stuff to free it up. And you know I got to the end of that text before realizing you can't get it off because the thread is jammed. Duh!

If it's this much mess buy some better bridge pieces anyway - not expensive for the best.

You have a real problem getting these screws to turn AND protecting the guitar - you need a towel or two over everything before you start. Now take the strings off and you'll be able to pull the bridge pieces up a bit. Don't use petrol or plus gas as you can't get this job away from the guitar and you'll damage the finish for sure. A pair of mole wrenches are what you need and apply some gentle turning force to the screw and brass bridge. If this doesn't happen reasonably easily then I'd take this to a pro. Too much risk. It was a dozey thing for the original owner to do as the bridge now doesn't work. (The same guy probably paints over his light switches and locks.)

 

[Wallaby]

You can try using a soldering iron, touching the tip to the screw in question, and see if you can get it to burn anything off. In case there's an adhesive in there like CA, lacquer, shellac, etc.

You could also try seeping a tiny drop of an actual solvent like acetone into the threads, but you've already soaked it in oil ( I think? ) plus there is risk to the finish doing that. Gotta be REAL careful if you try that, IMO.

 

[Peegoo]

Remove the entire saddle by pulling the intonation screw out. Use a small Vise Grip to get a tight hold on the bottom four threads of the stuck height screw and unscrew it from the bottom of the saddle.

 

[Boreas]

I am concerned 3-in-1 oil had no effect. Your man likely relic-ed the parts together with his process, BUT conceivably, the screw could be cross-threaded. If you have access to some actual penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD-40), apply a little to a toothpick and apply a fraction of a drop to the threads and let it sit overnight. Remove the tension on the string(s) resting on that saddle, then carefully try to turn it both directions. If it doesn't turn easy, then add heat, but don't force it. Sometimes, previous owners lose a screw and replace it with the wrong size threads and jam things up pretty good.

 

[Milspec]

I went through this on a '94 Strat-Plus that hadn't seen usage in more than a decade when I found it. Those screws are small and quite soft, there was no way to move some of them. I soaked them in various solvents, but no good. I finally had to just remove them and replace the saddles.

Ever since then, I make sure to put a drop of oil on them with every string change.

You could try the ultimate farmer's hack for removing rusty fasteners. A 50/50 mix of auto transmission fluid and acetone. Still the best rust breaker there is.

 

[ChrisDowning]

I hate the sound of these fluids near a body - so I'm assuming you would remove the whole bridge assembly?

 

[Wallaby]

Just removing the single saddle to work on would be sufficient, IMO.

I hate the sound of these fluids near a body - so I'm assuming you would remove the whole bridge assembly?

 

[Boreas]

I hate the sound of these fluids near a body - so I'm assuming you would remove the whole bridge assembly?

If you wanted to be safe you could - especially if you have any reservations about it. These chemicals can damage finishes. Let's not forget, this is a relic finish!!

I personally wouldn't bother because I have the ability to dispense a tiny amount of liquid to the screw threads via syringe or other specialty tool (toothpick). If the head is below the surface, even easier. And don't forget, there is basically a big metal tray under these saddles. A well-placed piece of paper towel can absorb a large mistake as well. But if you don't have the confidence in your ability to control your fluids, I would definitely remove them first. Better safe than sorry! With my luck, I would scratch or break something trying to remove the saddles! And who knows - those compensation screws may be frozen as well.

 

[ChrisDowning]

Yes agreed Boreas - just remember if there's a way to mess something up following our helpful tips - somebody will do it. "It used to be a relic and now it's bare wood......"

 

[Boreas]

Yes agreed Boreas - just remember if there's a way to mess something up following our helpful tips - somebody will do it. "It used to be a relic and now it's bare wood......"

That person would likely be me...

 

[Peegoo]

If you do occasional work on small parts that are constructed of dissimilar metals like this, a stupid-good idea is a small ultrasonic cleaner that has heat control. This little appliance, filled with water and a drop or two of dish soap, will free up stuck parts when they're left to simmer for about 30 minutes with the heat cranked all the way up. If you're cleaning really small parts, put them into a stainless steel mesh tea ball and toss that into the machine.

It's also great for cleaning the missus' jewelry and making it look new, getting varnish out of small carburetors, and other seemingly-impossible cleaning tasks.

I have this one that's the size of a four-slice toaster and it's a useful little beast.

 

[hd09]

I've had the best luck soaking a piece in Kroil overnight then put it in the freezer for a few hours. A screw will usually break loose.

 

[Boreas]

If you do occasional work on small parts that are constructed of dissimilar metals like this, a stupid-good idea is a small ultrasonic cleaner that has heat control. This little appliance, filled with water and a drop or two of dish soap, will free up stuck parts when they're left to simmer for about 30 minutes with the heat cranked all the way up. If you're cleaning really small parts, put them into a stainless steel mesh tea ball and toss that into the machine.

It's also great for cleaning the missus' jewelry and making it look new, getting varnish out of small carburetors, and other seemingly-impossible cleaning tasks.

I have this one that's the size of a four-slice toaster and it's a useful little beast.

I have one around someplace that my parents used to clean their dentures!

 

[BryMelvin]

I often lock screws with a drop of lacquer (aka clear nail polish) or dope so they don't loosen. In case someone did that oil won;t help but a drop of acetone will. Make sure you put somethinf underneath to protect the guitar

 

[old_picker]

Soldering iron has been suggested applied to the screw. This will in effect expand the screw and possibly make it more difficult to turn. I would apply the soldering iron to the saddle and hope it expands more than the screw. It will initially anyway so don't waste time between heating and turning the screw.

If there is enough thread showing at the bottom try the old double locking nut trick. Very fiddly being such small nuts but a powerful way to extract stubborn screws

 

[screaminblues]

i've run into this issue a few times, most recently on an old P Bass. my method is to remove the saddle completely and, from the bottom end, force the height adjustment screw with needle nose pliers, that way you don't strip the hex screw hole. once it's 'unjammed' it usually will adjust again