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How much dicker in the sticker? (NTC)

Discussion in 'Bad Dog Cafe' started by snoglobe, Jul 7, 2005.

  1. snoglobe

    snoglobe Tele-Holic

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    So I'm in the market for a used (relatively cheap) pickup truck. I've got my eye on one at one of those corner used car lots. It's listed for $4000. Any ideas how much wiggle room there is these types of situations?

    I realize a lot depends on the shape of the truck, mileage, etc, but any help would be appreciated.
     
  2. Jakedog

    Jakedog Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Just start haggling and see where it goes, that's all you can do. Figure out what you really want to spend for that truck, and start $500 below that. If you are mechanically adept, go over it with a fine toothed comb, and make a big deal out of anything amiss. If you aren't mechanically adept, take somebody who is, or don't buy off of one of those lots. You have to keep it in perspective too, it's a $4,000 truck. Still alot of money to folks like me, but at the same time, you can't evaluate a $4,000 truck using $20,000 truck standards. Am I making sense? When I look at a $4,000 vehicle, I mean to pay $3,000-$3,500 cash, at the max.


    Jake
     
  3. e-merlin

    e-merlin Doctor of Teleocity

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    Here are a few sites to check to find out the value:

    www.nada.com

    www.edmunds.com

    www.kbb.com

    You'll have to jump through a few hoops on all of them but you'll be prepared with accurate information, and an informed consumer is a smart consumer.
     
  4. Sarge

    Sarge Friend of Leo's

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    Patience, grasshopper......

    Saw a 1990 Toyota 4x4 sittin' in a local lot for $1,200. AC,CD, new off road tires and 173,000 miles which is just getting broke in for Toyota trucks. Every morning I'd pass it on the way to work. A couple times each week I'd stop and look intrested. Each week the price came down some. I told him I have $800 and left my phone number. About a month passed and one morning I saw a towtruck backing up to it. I asked the owner if some one bought it.....No, it's going to auction, he told me. I told him give me 5 minutes and I'll be back with $600. Been driven' the truck daily for several months with no problems. The longer a vehicle sits on the lot the cheaper you WILL get it for. I look at it this way....a few hours of my time saved me $600 than if I would have bought it the first time. Car dealers are like fish, lure them in slowly, and when they bite, sink the hook deep!
    On a $4000 truck(I'd need to know milage, year, make) I'd say he'll make around 2 grand on you. Go to an auction someday.......it's amazing.
     
  5. Joe-Bob

    Joe-Bob Doctor of Teleocity

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    Looks like Sarge got lucky on his truck. The fact is that most people sell their cars for a reason. Or even a series of reasons. :(

    Any reputable place will let you take the car/truck to your mechanic to get it checked out. And it's money well spent. You may have to get several cars checked before one passes the test. It's worth a couple of hundred dollars to end up not buying a $4000 car that is only worth $400, or will cost $2000 to get back up to roadworthiness.
     
  6. Raymond

    Raymond Friend of Leo's

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    1. “Any ideas how much wiggle room there is in these types of situations?” – There’s always room for haggling! Forget about what the sticker says and start working on getting that truck. Once you set your mind into the task, you’ll be more physiologically ready to haggle.
    2. As e-merlin mentioned, go to edmunds and get the so called “true market value or TMV.” I think that’s a very fair assessment on the value of the car. With that in mind set right now the “I’m willing to expend x in this car.” Set also a “walk away” price and stick to it.
    3. Protect yourself from lemons, wrecks, and flooded cars. Go to CARFAX and with the vin get its history. Believe me, it’s money worth spent. A car I wanted to buy turned out to be a rental. I don’t know about you guys, but I drive a lot of rentals I wouldn’t buy one. Nowadays, serious dealers will give you the report for free if you ask.
    4. Despite of all the stereotypes, don’t go there thinking the dealer is a scammer and a thief. They’re people too trying to make a living and of course they’re gonna try to sell it for as much money as they can. Let the dealer know you’ve done your homework and threat the guy with respect.
    5. Walk away if the dealer doesn’t let you get the car checked by your mechanic, if he threats you with disrespect, and if he doesn’t want even to talk about the Edmunds TMV or the CARFAX report.
    6. Try to have fun! Buying a car doesn’t need to be painful.

    This website is also good:

    http://www.carbuyingtips.com/used.htm

    Though they like rental cars. I don’t, but that’s me…
     
  7. marshallmelloman

    marshallmelloman Tele-Holic

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    Good advice here. I made a similar inquiry in a post back around Christmas and was led to Edmunds. It helped me a great deal in getting the best plan of attack. I scored a Jeep at the price/mileage I wanted, over 500 bucks below the TMV listed at Edmunds.
     
  8. popthree

    popthree Poster Extraordinaire

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    I would personally never buy from one of those 'corner lots'. I prefer to buy from individuals....also try to find 1 owner cars.

    when i buy used, (which is always) I take the vehicle to my mechanic for inspection. he charges 20 bucks to give it the once over. puts it up on the rack and checks everything out. if he does find some stuff that needs repair, it can usually be negociated out of the asking price. 3 years ago i bought a pickup truck. talked the guy down 15% based on findings by my mechanic. almost none of that stuff had to actually be repaired. the trucks still going strong.

    also, do not get emotionally attached to a vehicle before buying it. believe me, there is always another car available....take your time. don't fool yourself into thinking if you dont buy this one today, you have blown it.
     
  9. Tim Armstrong

    Tim Armstrong Super Moderator Ad Free Member

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    My brother has had good experiences dealing with Carmax: http://www.carmax.com

    The nice thing about them is you can get a good idea of what any particular make and model is selling for (their no-haggle prices are quite fair), plus you can get a line on a particular car located near you, or else they'll ship to your local Carmax dealer (for a specified shipping price).

    Cheers, Tim
     
  10. tellypicker

    tellypicker Tele-Meister

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    somebody mentioned CarFax. that will cost you a few bucks to join up so you can use it. here's what happened to me. we needed to replace one of our vehicles recently. something used of course. we signed up for CarFax and another site similar. found some cars, punched in the vin numbers and got the results, cars looked ok. then i thought, what the heck, i'll test this system. the vehicle were were replacing was purchased new by us. an 88 corolla. bought new in june of 88. so i punched in the vin number on carfax and the other site. it gave us a clean bill of health on the car. the problem is, i know the entire history of the car, i put the history on it. i know the accidents it was in over the years, the body shop repairs, the insurance claims. carfax is supposed to catch things like accident reports, high insurance claims, body shop repairs. they missed it all. so i called my credit card company and asked them to refund my carfax payment and that was that.
     
  11. KokoTele

    KokoTele Doctor of Teleocity Vendor Member

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    At that price, I've learned that you gotta be careful. Like Joe-Bob says, cars at that age are often sold because they have a series of things wrong with them, or about to go wrong with them.

    Shocks, ball joints, exhaust, alternators, power steering pumps, CV joints, A/C, and things like that have a tendancy to go between the 150k and 200k marks, and they're usually pretty pricey. Unless they're about to fail, your mechanic's pre-purchase inspection will probably show that they're working just fine.

    So you gotta watch yourself. Know your states laws about lemons and warranties. If you buy from a dealer, make them fix anything amiss before you buy the car.

    I bought a high mileage Subaru last winter for about 25% less than the sticker and had the dealer fix a couple of things. Unfortunately, they failed to fix a couple of other things and I didn't realize it until after it was too late to go back and get them to fix them for free. And I've probably spent close to $2000 since then on ball joints, struts, an alternator, and a couple of other little things.
     
  12. snoglobe

    snoglobe Tele-Holic

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    Thanks

    Thanks for all the great tips.

    As luck would have it, there was a big auction at a local auction house this weekend. 1,400 vehicles including some 500 pickup trucks. I decided to get a cheap beater, and if it needs it do some fixing on it. So I picked up a 1993 Ford F150 V6 2WD with 200,000 kms on it (ex-fleet vehicle, but it sounded good running) for $700 Canadian. It has very little rust, but the box has been worked and banged about (and that's fine). It wasn't pretty enough for the dealers and curbers to bid on.

    I really only needed in the summers for dump runs, getting gravel, sod, drywall, and the odd fishing trip to small local lakes, etc., so it will only be insured for those months.

    I'll keep it 3 summers, then sell it for $700. If it requires repairs, I'll do them myself. If it requires serious repairs or dies, I'll donate the car to the Kidney Foundation (they'll part it out etc.) and pick up another beater for the duration.

    I couldn't really use Edmonds or the other sites as they were US based, so they may not accurately reflect the Canadian market. But having gone through the Auto Trader and the Bargain Finder (Buy and Sell) for the past two months, gave me a good idea of what trucks were selling for locally (both private sales and dealers)

    Thanks again.
     
  13. Raymond

    Raymond Friend of Leo's

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    Re: Thanks

    :oops: :oops: I didn't see that you were in Canada! Sorry about that... I should've read more carefully. I'm glad the deal worked out for you after all.
     
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