How much clearance should there be between edge of speaker frame and edge of inside of cabinet?

Discussion in 'Amp Tech Center' started by itsGiusto, Sep 23, 2021.

  1. itsGiusto

    itsGiusto Tele-Holic

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    I installed a speaker in my cabinet, and it's very very close to the edge:

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    The frame is not quite touching the edge, but it's really close. The gap is just wide enough that I can slide something the thickness of a plastic ziploc bag through.

    I don't know whether the frame will move when I play through it, or how much. Could something this close cause warping to the frame over time? If so, should I chisel away at the cabinet frame where the gap is smallest to give some more clearance?
     
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  2. telemnemonics

    telemnemonics Telefied Ad Free Member

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    That's fine, and if you need to you can chisel a bit of the cleat away but it's fitted nicely.
     
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  3. arlum

    arlum Tele-Afflicted Platinum Supporter

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    Not a problem. Looks good.
     
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  4. 24 track

    24 track Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    as long as the speaker frame is laying flat to the cab , no issues at all ,
    are you going to put baffle ports on the front tp allow the speakers to vent when the speakers push back?
    if not it could create a negative standing wave inside the cabnet causing the speaker coil to overheat and ( possibly) damage the speakers ,I had to do that with my Iso cab I built to allow the spls to escape .even the marshall 1922 has ports in the front to release the back pressure of the speakers

    just a thought!:D
     
  5. itsGiusto

    itsGiusto Tele-Holic

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    Oh, is that true? I'm pretty sure that not all cabs are ported, for example, I think my Marshall 1960a has no opening in the back or in the front, it's completely closed up.
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2021
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  6. 24 track

    24 track Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    the marshall 1922 hs them My cerwin vega has them the peavey and my fender 4X12's have them, all of these are closed back cabs

    I know it was a major issue for Iso cab I built so i designed tunable ports , in the cab

    it stands to reason that when the speaker pumps back if there is no room for the compressions to move air it will heat up the voice coil , prematurely , just some thing to bare in mind if you push the cab hard , and it is an easy fix if you find this is the case and need to remedy the situation , just saying!
    nice cabnet by the way! kudos

    note the ports on the bottom of the 4560 cabs i built just for that purpose ( these 15's in here are 600.00 each I'm not taking chances LOL)

    P1011178.JPG

    here is the iso box I built and no matter what design I followed there was a lot of relavent issues to burn out voice coils especially at high spl's there is a 100 watt jensen in here big enough to handle my Marshall JCM800 and the BF 65 fender twin RI at 85 watts P1011343.JPG P1011346.JPG P1011350.JPG Scan 1.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2021
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  7. 24 track

    24 track Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    although i can spout out about the principals of cabnet design , dont get me wrong here , My recomendation would be to try it out with your idea in mind wholly , and if you run into issues fix it , your ears will be your guide and what you like personally , and never change that!,
    I was making you aware of a potenial issue if it arises and it may never, thats all

    :D:D:D:D:D:D:D
     
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  8. PhredE

    PhredE Tele-Afflicted

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    Very nice. That's WGS' take on the old EVL IIRC. 99+ db @ 200WRMS -- punishing!
    Those spring-loaded connectors are really nice too. I've got a 12" PA speaker I use in a similar fashion and it also has those same connectors. Super convenient and no solder too.

    It'll sound great once broken in (if it doesn't already..). Let us know how it all turns out.
     
  9. Old Deaf Roadie

    Old Deaf Roadie Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    I wouldn't sweat it. What matters more is the total size/volume of the box (LxWxH) in relation to speaker size & whether it is ported or not.
     
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  10. itsGiusto

    itsGiusto Tele-Holic

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    Yep, makes sense, and you're not the first person I've heard raise the question of whether a cab needs to be ported to prevent overheating. But I'm still unsure if I trust it, due to the fact that I do know examples of cabs that are entirely unported, and are quite popular and well-used (even really really loud, like the Marshall 1960 cabs). To reconcile these, is it the case that for some lower-bound of air-volume or cab depth, you'd need to port the cab to prevent overheating, but for larger cabs, you don't need to? If so, what is that volume or depth? I'd love to hear more people weigh in on this issue to see what they think.

    Either way, that won't be an issue for this cab. This cab has panels on the front and back that I will unscrew to either have it be front-ported or rear ported. This is because EVM12L-style speakers often get people saying that they sound really good front-ported, and also a bunch of Dumble cabs had that oval rear port. I'd like to be able to run the speaker in either configuration to try these sounds out - this cab is primarily being paired with my ODS clone.
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2021
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  11. 24 track

    24 track Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    like I said earlier , Kudos and nice design , I am curious to hear how the cab sounds once loaded and operational, let your ears be your guide , keep us posted !
     
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