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How about some S-ish build fun!

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by eallen, Dec 25, 2020.

  1. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's

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    I always love a new challenge to build. The requests for this one are right up that alley!

    I haven't been on as much since the app went away and over busyness in a crazy year. Thanks for George (old wrench) fr messaging me and shaking me back into realizing how much I miss this place!

    So why not share a new 2021 build? Ok ai started in 2020 but won't be done until sometime in 2021.

    The request...A Stratish double humbucker thinline for heavy grunge rock and dark tone. But what's the challenge on that? Well, follow along for the fun!

    The wood: African mahogany body with quilted maple top, Mahogany neck and ebody fretboard.

    I gotta admit to skipping some early picks when I was just cutting a bunch of body blanks out to reorganize my stock pile.

    Start with a mahgany body blank from my stash. The curly maple with it goes back on the shelf for another day. Some of my fun crotch walnut blanks roughed out as well.

    I won't take to narrate every pic so feel free to ask questions.

    For those wondering about planing figured wood, wet the surface good with a damp cloth before each pass to get rid of tear out. I resawed book match glue the top before running it thru the planer for final thickness.
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    Last edited: Dec 25, 2020
  2. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's

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    I like to seal all the non glue surfaces on the interior when doing a semi-hallow. I mark the glue contact areas with the routing template to avoid sealing a glue area and impacting the bond.

    Glue and clamp it all up before hitting it with the band saw and sander. I route the outer body on the mahogany before putting the top on and sand the top to match. Routers can be hell on chipping out figured wood tops on the edge grains so why bother.

    The young lady this one is far also prefered an electrosocket tele style jack rather than interrupt the gorgeous top grain with a typical strat jack.

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  3. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's

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    On to doing a matching rear cover!

    The mahogany was left about a 1/4" thick to allow me to route around the eventual template.
    I put 2 side marks on the 2 templates and body to keep it aligned. Route around the cover and then remove the eventual cover with a fine tooth japanese pull saw.

    Run it thru the planer for final thickness to 1-3/4".


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  4. lowatter

    lowatter Tele-Meister

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    Noice! Keep it coming.
     
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  5. RobRiggs

    RobRiggs Tele-Meister

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    Nice looking build. More please!
     
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  6. SweetClyde99

    SweetClyde99 Tele-Holic

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    Very cool idea on the cover. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out. Thanks for sharing.
     
  7. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Doctor of Teleocity

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    A beautiful guitar in the making here :)
     
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  8. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's

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    Continued!

    Making the cover. I also move the cover template onto the front to mark my switch and pot area. Nothing like cutting a switch slot and not being able to get it on later.

    This one gets a hard tail and double humbuckers I like to set in place to make sure control locations are good.

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  9. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's

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    And on. My ADHD doesn't always follow a sequence other than the next squirrel so forgive me if I skip around!

    The lady also wants a a sloped cutaway on the horn both for looks a her smaller hands to reach the last frets easier for leads. I do so few of these I just sketch it out and head to the drum sander.

    I also, went ahead and located the bridge. I have the half way point marked on my neck template that I use to locate it as well as from side to side checks.

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  10. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Doctor of Teleocity

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    Perhaps the most beautiful Strat I've ever seen :)
     
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  11. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's

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    More fun there is!

    One of the most common complaints I get about the strat design is people saying the hit the switch while playing. Another is having to mess with 2 tone knobs. Since this one opted for a master tone and master volume I am able to move the switch back a good bit. I just let my 1/8" shaft dremel bit ride in the switch slot templates as a guide to cut the 1/16" slot.

    She also prefers a tele style jack.

    Next is finishing up the magnetic latch on the cover.

    Eric

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  12. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's

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    20201126_163918.jpg 20201126_164253.jpg 20201126_170147.jpg 20201127_192457.jpg 20201127_192538.jpg 20201127_192548.jpg 20201128_134245.jpg 20201128_134601.jpg 20201128_135731.jpg Madness continued! When putting the magnets in the top it is essential to make sure all the polarities match the body! Nothig like a magnetic latch that repels the top from staying on rather than securing it. I make a magnetic removal tool that goes with the guitar.

    You can also leave the lip off on one end of the body resting flange to allow a push to remove. I prefer the removal tool as I find using it to both remove as well as to put the cover back on gently reduces chips in the finish that can happen from the magnets slamming the cover on.
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2020
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  13. maple

    maple Tele-Meister

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    Tidy, very tidy.
     
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  14. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's

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    2021 and more to come!

    I wanted to give the top on this one a little variation with recesses around the switch and pots. I use a 1-1/8" bowl bit. I do the pot locations with the drill press on 3000 rpm mainly because I have been too lazy to make a template tall enough for the bearing to be in contact before I turn on the plunger router.

    For grain filling the back and sides I like the way ZPoxy accentuates the mahogany shimmer rather than blocking it. I usually end up doing about 3 coats with the 1st two full strength and the last on thinned with acetone. When it comes to the sides I usually just end up rubbing it on with my gloved hand.

    Years of heavy 2 part adhesives in the military aircraft industry in early years led to a nice allergy development to epoxies and CA but I never fail to get some on bare skin every use! Then it is on to the necessary choice of evils between wiping it off with acetone or some nice painful spots!

    Eric

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    Last edited: Jan 1, 2021
  15. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's

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    Time for necking! Nothing like disappearing from a build thread. Bern so busy in the life thing I forgot.

    How about ! Neck!
    I do my truss rod routes on the rputer table while the neck is still a rectangle blank. I have my fence marked for 1.5" from the low e edge to the enter of the route. I have a marking blank I generally use to mark the start stop locations of the route. I lower t blank down on to the 1/4" bit set to depth and route the length. I also route a 5/16" bowl bit into the head stock the distance of the headstock radius for the trussrod adjustment access. I basically lower the blank progressively deeper as I go the length into the rod route

    Follow by rough cutting the headstock thickness on the bandsaw followed by final material removal using a fence on the router table.

    Next is routing the periphery. I leave a good part of the headstock for the ROSS sander to avoid potential tearout.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's

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    Next!
    Fret slots.

    This one gets a matching quilted maple headstock. Since the body gets a faux binding I wanted a thick enough headstock veneer to have a smaller version which means bending the veneer to match the headstock radius. I wet the .080 veneer and clamp it in place using pipe at the radius with som heat applied. Repeat over a couple days until formed. Next is glue it in place

    I missed the fretboard glue on so I threw in pic from another mahogany neck in works. 20201213_123212.jpg 20201222_182027.jpg 20201222_183826.jpg
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  17. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's

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    Trim the fretboard to size and radius to the headstock.

    On the the contour jig followed by transitioning the back contour on the drum sander and smooth it all out.
     

    Attached Files:

  18. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Doctor of Teleocity

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    Sweet! :)
     
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  19. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's

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    Nothing like the @oldwrench (George) fretboard radius jig to knock out a top notch 9-12" radius. The Dewalt trim router micro adjustment makes for outstanding results. I have a tendancy of starting with a 5/16" thick raw board. It is really more of a habit than a need.

    Per George's advice, leaving the board wide before radiusing gets rid of any chipout issues. A little run over with 220 up to 400 makes for one excellent board.

    I like to use a SM drill block and 1/4" to full size step reamer to pop in the tuner holes. Don't even think a good about not using a drill press. 20201214_185143.jpg 20201214_185504.jpg 20201214_190422.jpg 20201214_190453.jpg 20210116_141515.jpg 20210116_151957.jpg 20210116_153225.jpg
     
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  20. eallen

    eallen Friend of Leo's

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    Time for a little neck pore filling. I normally would wait until after fret install but the headstock gets a little dye work and I like to seal the the edges wherever I am going to dye.

    This one also gets glow in the dark side markers. I have found pore filling or sealing before keeps runaway powder from getting in the wood pores to show up after the coating is done as well as CA.

    I like to use a 7/64" drill bit for a little larger glow surface. I use a mixing bulb to suck the glow powder up and a micro tip to to drop it in the hole. Wipe off any excess and drop fill with super thin CA. There will inevitably be some air bubbles in the powder that will come to the top and require adding more powder and CA. Sand flush and ready to go.

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    Last edited: Jan 19, 2021
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