Hollow body II build

1bad914

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The horn will take just a little more work. So I will not
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break any trademark rules I am changing the design slightly.
 

1bad914

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When carving the inside you need a way to measure the thickness. Since I am notoriously frugal, I decided to make my own calipers. This is not done yet. I will clean it up and put cross beams on it so it stands on its own. I think I will also design a way to make the actuation faster and easier. Like a trigger. Ugly, but functional. Lol
To be honest, I may make another, the bit wandered on the bottom hole. Kind of crooked.
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1bad914

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If you were really frugal, you would have saved that gorgeous maple offcut for something better :D
I have more. It was that or a piece of mahogany. Maple will flex less. Lol

Started carving the inside. Holy moly, my wrists are killing me already. Lol. I was to cautious with my hog it drilling. I could have gone much closer. Learn on the back.
 

crazydave911

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Getting the back inside carve dialed in. I still have some cleanup work to do around the neck and center block areas. This is good practice for the F5 mando I have in my head. View attachment 1003671
If you can find a used Roger Siminoff book with the fold out plans still in the back you'd be better off. Jerry's first mandolins were built out of it and the second with a redwood top is still going and VERY loud 😉
 

1bad914

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If you can find a used Roger Siminoff book with the fold out plans still in the back you'd be better off. Jerry's first mandolins were built out of it and the second with a redwood top is still going and VERY loud 😉
Was looking at that book the other day. It is still in print.
 

Freeman Keller

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Roger's book guided me when I built mine. I'll also say that I cheated and bought one of his kits which had the top and back roughed out on a duplicarver.
 

Freeman Keller

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Well, the carving of this guitar should scare me away, but I keep thinking about it.

Some things to remember about a mandolin or archtop vs. what you are doing. Their tops are spruce which is infinitely easier to carve. Backs are usually maple but don't have to be carved as carefully or as thinly as the top. I was able to get the top to about 1/4 thickness on the archtop with the method I used and the rest was pretty easy to remove. I also used much bigger planes than I see in any of your pictures and I could put both shoulders into pushing the planes. The little guys are cute but big ones move wood.

Also many people are now using mills or duplicating routers to hog out most of the wood which was more or less where I started my F5.
 

crazydave911

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An F style mandolin also has a carved back so you'll need a wedge blank for that also. I have a local source for sycamore boards 15/16" thick if you can resaw FYI
 




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