Jerry garrcia
Tele-Holic
So it all started with a project to build a >10W SE amp with the 6SJ7 tone and maximised headroom with octal tubes and jazz tones. Since one of the purposes was to be utilised by an archtop I had to include a tone control. That’s where the problems started since the 6SJ7 tube is great for tone/gain but a bad driver for a tone stack and a 6L6 to a 16 ohm speaker. Lots of help from @2L man. Starter with a triode strapped 6SK7 as a driver and got a great tone but not more output from the 6L6 compared to a 6V6.
Redid a couple times and ended up with a pleasing amp.6SJ7 preamp -> gain pot -> 1/2 6SN7 tone stack driver -> 5F2 tone stack -> Master volume -> 2/2 6SN7 output tube driver -> 6L6.
417V at the output tube plate. SS rectification and 100.3% plate dissipation. A great sounding, loud amp with the SE touch. A @printer2 grid leak/cathode bias switch and a NFB switch.
A great sounding amp. the MV makes it useful for home practice and still loud enough for gigs
Need to find a faceplate since some drunk drilling occurred
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The layout looks like crap since it has been redone so many times. Also NOS tested tone caps that aren’t the quietest but brings a bit of mojo. That’s why I used some hated shielded wires that actually reduced background hum.
Redid a couple times and ended up with a pleasing amp.6SJ7 preamp -> gain pot -> 1/2 6SN7 tone stack driver -> 5F2 tone stack -> Master volume -> 2/2 6SN7 output tube driver -> 6L6.
417V at the output tube plate. SS rectification and 100.3% plate dissipation. A great sounding, loud amp with the SE touch. A @printer2 grid leak/cathode bias switch and a NFB switch.
A great sounding amp. the MV makes it useful for home practice and still loud enough for gigs
Need to find a faceplate since some drunk drilling occurred

The layout looks like crap since it has been redone so many times. Also NOS tested tone caps that aren’t the quietest but brings a bit of mojo. That’s why I used some hated shielded wires that actually reduced background hum.
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