Hercules Stand mods..?

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duckfatnoise

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I have wall hangers for a strat and an acoustic, both flappy paddle Hercules types that took all manner of engineering to fix to dot and dab drywall/plaster board.
I have tucked a floor stand beside this cabinet to try to keep my Tele out of direct sunlight. It’s not quite how it’s meant to be used.. the prop that should support the lower back of the guitar is stowed folded, to let the guitar hang vertically and avoid the sun that would otherwise catch it.
The headstock of the guitar is profiled in such a way as to cam out of the rubberised hanger.. it has taken an inordinate amount of experimenting to come up with a bodge that keeps it where I want it!
Anyone got more elegant solutions? Am sure I’m not the first to stumble over this 😅
HNY - TIA

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jchabalk

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I haven't modified my hercules stands for telecaster headstocks but i'm aware of the problem. I use String Swing hangers on the wall, they rotate to fit the instrument and provide a secure hold on telecaster necks. I use the CC11K hanger specifically.
 

Peegoo

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I've always believed the cams and little levers are an unnecessary complication on these hangers and stands, because the guitar's own weight keeps it well in place on the yoke. And especially when on a stand, any bump or knock that's hard enough to push the guitar off the stand is going to knock over the entire stand anyway.

The real trick to keeping a guitar safe on a stand is to always have the stand nowhere near where people are walking, and keep cords kicked out of the way so they don't tangle in anyone's feets.
 

duckfatnoise

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I haven't modified my hercules stands for telecaster headstocks but i'm aware of the problem. I use String Swing hangers on the wall, they rotate to fit the instrument and provide a secure hold on telecaster necks. I use the CC11K hanger specifically.
Thanks - good to know it's not faulty as such (It was given to me, and despite one of the rivets falling out on day one, I have decided to trust it)
I noticed yesterday that yoke on the stand doesn't rotate like the wall hangers..
 

duckfatnoise

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I've always believed the cams and little levers are an unnecessary complication on these hangers and stands, because the guitar's own weight keeps it well in place on the yoke. And especially when on a stand, any bump or knock that's hard enough to push the guitar off the stand is going to knock over the entire stand anyway.

The real trick to keeping a guitar safe on a stand is to always have the stand nowhere near where people are walking, and keep cords kicked out of the way so they don't tangle in anyone's feets.

Agreed on both counts. New to stands, and this one is too near a doorway.. unless I permanently fix it there. Hmm..
 

Pcs264

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+1 for Loudboy's suggestion; I'd just mount a wall hanger on the side of the cabinet. Depending on one's S.O., that might be fine or it might be a "better to ask forgiveness than permission" situation.
 

duckfatnoise

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+1 for Loudboy's suggestion; I'd just mount a wall hanger on the side of the cabinet. Depending on one's S.O., that might be fine or it might be a "better to ask forgiveness than permission" situation.

I think I will - my problem lies in the walls being made of fine meringue, with no studs, at least that I can find. It's called 'dot and dab' construction in the UK... the only fixings I can find that I almost trust are a nightmare to install and I have so far ended up using epoxy around the plugs.. it's not elegant, and the weight of the guitar is all on the nylon (?) plug.. getting the 2x 1" holes perfectly aligned challenges me.. so much so that I think I only use the fixing on the top of the two screws, figuring that the lower screw is pressing into the wall under the guitar's weight and only the top one is trying to pull out..

IMG_9288.jpeg
 

ChicknPickn

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I've always believed the cams and little levers are an unnecessary complication on these hangers and stands, because the guitar's own weight keeps it well in place on the yoke. And especially when on a stand, any bump or knock that's hard enough to push the guitar off the stand is going to knock over the entire stand anyway.

The real trick to keeping a guitar safe on a stand is to always have the stand nowhere near where people are walking, and keep cords kicked out of the way so they don't tangle in anyone's feets.
“Danger Will Robinson, Danger!”
 

Pcs264

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"and the weight of the guitar is all on the nylon (?) plug.. getting the 2x 1" holes perfectly aligned challenges me.. so much so that I think I only use the fixing on the top of the two screws, figuring that the lower screw is pressing into the wall under the guitar's weight and only the top one is trying to pull out.."

I've had this experience with what we in the States call "drywall" or "sheetrock" (though nothing about it bears any resemblance to any rock). I can tell you from personal experience that while the top screw tries to pull out first, as soon as it's out just a bit, the lower screw tries to follow it. Had much better results with toggle bolts like the pic here - you drill a shockingly larger hole than you think is needed (deep breath, it's ok, and the package tells you what size holes to drill). Then the "wings" fold up & pass through that large hole, and being spring-loaded, they open again once they're fully inside the wall. They are actually strong enough for the purpose, and you can't see the hole once they are tightened down on the hanger.

Come to think of it, if you install a wall hanger on the side of the white cabinet, that one may be the most sturdy one of all!
 

duckfatnoise

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View attachment 1199967

"and the weight of the guitar is all on the nylon (?) plug.. getting the 2x 1" holes perfectly aligned challenges me.. so much so that I think I only use the fixing on the top of the two screws, figuring that the lower screw is pressing into the wall under the guitar's weight and only the top one is trying to pull out.."

I've had this experience with what we in the States call "drywall" or "sheetrock" (though nothing about it bears any resemblance to any rock). I can tell you from personal experience that while the top screw tries to pull out first, as soon as it's out just a bit, the lower screw tries to follow it. Had much better results with toggle bolts like the pic here - you drill a shockingly larger hole than you think is needed (deep breath, it's ok, and the package tells you what size holes to drill). Then the "wings" fold up & pass through that large hole, and being spring-loaded, they open again once they're fully inside the wall. They are actually strong enough for the purpose, and you can't see the hole once they are tightened down on the hanger.

Come to think of it, if you install a wall hanger on the side of the white cabinet, that one may be the most sturdy one of all!

Thanks for your detailed reply - I forget now, if I've tried those fixings.. The board is around 1" from the blockwork that it's stuck to, which makes it super awkward to let the wings open.. I guess the hole needs to be deep enough into the block, and wide enough to let the wings open - a big old hole!

But you'r absolutely right - I suggested hanging it on the cabinet to my Mrs... she wasn't thrilled, but she might come round to the idea.. the cabinet is only just deep enough, but it would be much the safest.
 

Wrighty

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I think I will - my problem lies in the walls being made of fine meringue, with no studs, at least that I can find. It's called 'dot and dab' construction in the UK... the only fixings I can find that I almost trust are a nightmare to install and I have so far ended up using epoxy around the plugs.. it's not elegant, and the weight of the guitar is all on the nylon (?) plug.. getting the 2x 1" holes perfectly aligned challenges me.. so much so that I think I only use the fixing on the top of the two screws, figuring that the lower screw is pressing into the wall under the guitar's weight and only the top one is trying to pull out..u

View attachment 1199960
There’s a type of Rawlplug available in B&Q for fixing things to plaster board. I have your problem since I strated using them it’s gone away. The trick is to drill the hole very slowly and about 2mm under the recommended diameter.
 

duckfatnoise

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There’s a type of Rawlplug available in B&Q for fixing things to plaster board. I have your problem since I strated using them it’s gone away. The trick is to drill the hole very slowly and about 2mm under the recommended diameter.
Thanks - I couldn't make the link work, but am curious what you made work - I have fixings collected from years as a decorator, and by and large, they're all a but rubbish at holding tension in plaster board..
 
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