Help with this sh*t Body !

you can look on the reranch site for fairly exhaustive, and somewhat exhausting, instructions on how to use spray cans of lacquer to finish guitar bodies. I have had some success and satisfaction using those methods. Just read it all a few times.

Usually you don't have to grainfill pine, but you want to go to 220 to paint it probably. 150 will probably still show scratches. Use a block for sure. If you hand sanded all of that without a block, that will be kind of a mess. Usually you can use a sanding sealer and a block to figure you high spots and low spots, so you can get the whole thing flat before you prime it, or start with color coats or whatever you're doing.

The better you prep it, the better it will turn out in the end, so take your time.

 

That's awesome! Love the color. Congrats!

 

What a beauty! The white PG was a great choice, you could eat off that thing!

 

And twice as stanky!

 

I second that emotion!

 

You have to decide what type f finish you want and weigh the plusses and minuses. For example, doing a wood stain type finish on that body would require much more sanding. You would have to sand to the depth the old paint penetrated the wood to prevent a blotch color. Then there is the knot. If your relicy looking pinecaster fan, you could live with that. The part worse than the knot is the light color wood ring around the knot which will make it look like a bullseye. If a wood finish is what you desire, a bit of additional sanding and an application of stain in your choice of color isn't that much more work. Be sure to use a pre-stain conditioner or even a light coat of rattle can lacquer before staining to prevent the blotching and blackening that pine does when stained.

If you don't like the look, a quick wipe down with lacquer thinner and you can paint it your color of choice. I would spray it with high build gray or white primer (white under white finishes, grey under dark finishes), build up a few coats and wet sand it until flawless smooth. Then spray multiple base color coats followed by clear coats followed by wet sanding and buffing. I would suggest Duplicolor brand aerosols for primer, color basecoat and clearcoat though you can substitute any rattle can lacquer for the clearcoat. Do not sand the color basecoat before the clearcoat, the clear will magnify any sanding scratches and if a metallic color is used, it dulls the metallic. The key is to build the clear up as a finish coat and use wetsanding and buffing to smooth the finish.

 

Ghost, that came out really nice! Congratulations.