Help with 52’ RI ID

rad1

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I picked up a 2001 52’RI for a good price and would like some opinions regarding it being legit. I bought knowing there was no risk due to the 45 day return window.

Here is what I know, the bridge plate number is of very little help other than it has 5 numbers and that is correct for the a 2001.

The neck is dated 2001, that’s good. The neck pocket has no date but does have the correct numbering for the 2nd reissue series that includes the 2001. It does have a funky shim.

The wiring has been modified to the typical 3 position Tele style. I know that is not uncommon and the RI’s even came with that info/upgrade in the case.

The guitar came with no case and no COA, I know the COA ‘s were not always included.

I think it is legit, just would like some other opinions
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dannyh

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Looks legit to me. IIRC that 1835X number in the heel pocket is Fender's internal part number for the 52 AVRI body, you use to be able to pull up the technical data sheet off Fender's website and verify all the various detail numbers, if you were so inclined...

Whatever, it looks right to me. Nice Tele ,congrats!
 

TwangerWannabe

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You can also check the date codes on the pots.

Your pics look legit. What about the heel of the neck? Any pics of that and pics of the headstock, front and back? And full body pics of the guitar?
 

Mike Eskimo

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Your first pic, the neck looks to be the right shade of light pumpkin. I know that varies from year to year . There’s actually some place online which documents neck tint of the 52 RI’s by era. I stumbled upon it once.
 

rad1

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Contact Fender Customer Relations with the serial number.
52’ RI’s don’t have serial numbers that is why the info in the neck pocket and the control cavity is required for an ID
 

rad1

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Looks good to me, what’s it’s weight? How does it sound?
I don’t have a scale but it is far lighter than my mim tele but not as light as the roasted pine Tele I had once. Tone wise, I really like it and I have not even messed with the pickup heights yet.
 

rad1

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Your first pic, the neck looks to be the right shade of light pumpkin. I know that varies from year to year . There’s actually some place online which documents neck tint of the 52 RI’s by era. I stumbled upon it once.

Ya the pumpkin looks legit, I found that write up when I first started researching the 52’s. It gives a history of the three reissues.
 

John C

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52’ RI’s don’t have serial numbers that is why the info in the neck pocket and the control cavity is required for an ID

They do have serial numbers; they are on the original bridge plate - so if someone replaces the original bridge but doesn't keep it the serial number is lost. You have to check the other info to get an accurate date of production on AVRI '52s from 1982-circa July 2012 because it was just a number without any prefix.

When the revised "Pure Vintage" AV '52 came out in August 2012 it still had the serial number on the bridge plate but it now began with a "V" and the first 2 digits were the year of production (V12xxxxx for 2012, V13xxxxx for 2013, etc.).
 

rad1

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They do have serial numbers; they are on the original bridge plate - so if someone replaces the original bridge but doesn't keep it the serial number is lost. You have to check the other info to get an accurate date of production on AVRI '52s from 1982-circa July 2012 because it was just a number without any prefix.

When the revised "Pure Vintage" AV '52 came out in August 2012 it still had the serial number on the bridge plate but it now began with a "V" and the first 2 digits were the year of production (V12xxxxx for 2012, V13xxxxx for 2013, etc.).

I kind of agree, but it is not definitive. It is really just a bridge plate number from my understanding, they were just pulled from a bin by the assembly folks. It is one more clue in the ID puzzle but not an absolute ID indicator.

I would hope Fender still responds to inquiries based on the bridge plate number with corresponding info like neck pocket info.

I’m actually not worried about its authenticity anymore, it is legit.

Now the issue for me is a personal one. I love everything about the guitar except the 7 1/4” radius and the narrow nut. I haven’t been there in many years. I have 45 days to see if my old tired knuckles adjust after having played wider nuts and chunky necks for a few years.
 
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kuch

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Now the issue for me is a personal one. I love everything about the guitar except the 7 1/4” radius and the narrow nut. I haven’t been there in many years. I have 45 days to see if my old tired knuckles adjust after having played wider nuts and chunky necks for a few years.
Looks legit to me.

Neck issue: I picked up 2 AVRI 52's in the early 2k's because I wanted a BB tele. I ended up selling both of them due to the fretboard radius and the vintage frets. I eventually "stumbled" onto a AVRI 52 Hotrod and immediately fell in love. It has a 9.5" radius board and medium jumbo frets. Like a DA, I actually sold it and made quite a few $$'s. I totally regretted it and it took a few years but I found an almost identical one in mint condition for a great price. I'm never going to get rid of it. It's one of my 2 fav guitars.
I think the new 50's tele has a similar neck and frets.
Here's a pic of mine:

20220130_104847.jpg
 
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rad1

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Looks legit to me.

Neck issue: I picked up 2 AVRI 52's in the early 2k's because I wanted a BB tele. I ended up selling both of them due to the fretboard radius and the vintage frets. I eventually "stumbled" onto a AVRI 52 Hotrod and immediately fell in love. It has a 9.5" radius board and medium jumbo frets. Like a DA, I actually sold it and made quite a few $$'s. I totally regretted it and it took a few years but I found an almost identical one in mint condition for a great price. I'm never going to get rid of it. It's one of my 2 fav guitars.
I think the new 50's tele has a similar neck and frets.
Here's a pic of mine:

View attachment 1037249

Beautiful guitar.
 

John C

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I kind of agree, but it is not definitive. It is really just a bridge plate number from my understanding, they were just pulled from a bin by the assembly folks. It is one more clue in the ID puzzle but not an absolute ID indicator.

I would hope Fender still responds to inquiries based on the bridge plate number with corresponding info like neck pocket info.

I’m actually not worried about its authenticity anymore, it is legit.

Now the issue for me is a personal one. I love everything about the guitar except the 7 1/4” radius and the narrow nut. I haven’t been there in many years. I have 45 days to see if my old tired knuckles adjust after having played wider nuts and chunky necks for a few years.

Well that's how they did the neck plates for the other AVRI/AV models as well - just pulled them from the bin - and they are considered to be the serial numbers for all the other AVRI/AV models. So for the AVRI '52 Tele that number is considered to be the serial number of the guitar - assuming it was the original bridge it left the factory with - and the other numbers are the parts numbers for the neck, body, etc.
 

Twang Tone

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52’ RI’s don’t have serial numbers that is why the info in the neck pocket and the control cavity is required for an ID
Incorrect. The serial numbers for the US-built 52RI were always stamped on the bridgeplate, unless it was an FSR or Limited Edition model.
 
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Twang Tone

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Well that's how they did the neck plates for the other AVRI/AV models as well - just pulled them from the bin - and they are considered to be the serial numbers for all the other AVRI/AV models. So for the AVRI '52 Tele that number is considered to be the serial number of the guitar - assuming it was the original bridge it left the factory with - and the other numbers are the parts numbers for the neck, body, etc.
Correct. To the Op - Just e-mail Fender's Consumer Relations, quoting the serial number (41926), and they'll confirm the date that was written on the original (and presumably, lost) Certificate of Authenticity (which Fender used as their date of manufacture).

Fender stopped issuing 52RI Certificates in August 2006, after the death of Bill Schultz.
 
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