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Help request - Cliff jack double check

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by D_Hallett, Jan 25, 2021.

  1. D_Hallett

    D_Hallett TDPRI Member

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    Hello,

    I had posted this question in my other thread, but it might get lost in the shuffle, and maybe anyone that can lend a hand won't see it. I'm building a JTM45 Micro, per @robrob design, and I'm going for full Marshall aesthetic. This includes using cliff jacks in place of switchcraft style input/output jacks. Cliff jacks are new to me, and judging by the amount of help requests here and other places online, they're sometimes not the easiest to wrap your head around. I think I got it figured out, but wanted to double check

    Input as shown in layout
    [​IMG]
    Cliff jack input
    [​IMG]
    FX Loop as shown in layout
    [​IMG]
    Cliff jack FX Loop - does this need to run to ground?
    [​IMG]
    Output as shown in layout
    [​IMG]
    Cliff Jack output
    [​IMG]

    Derek
     
  2. schmee

    schmee Doctor of Teleocity

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    My only advice is get actual Cliff brand. Many amps use a "cliff" style but they dont last. I got nuttin' else for you than that.
     
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  3. D_Hallett

    D_Hallett TDPRI Member

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    Yup, got the actual Cliff brand, not the knockoffs.:)
     
  4. Peegoo

    Peegoo Poster Extraordinaire

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    Your wiring looks good. Just make sure to pay close attention to the connections because one side of the Cliff contains switched contacts.
     
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  5. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Friend of Leo's

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    The Cliff jack with three terminals are TRS. Tip-Ring-Sleeve. The middle lug is the ring.

    The input jack will work. (GND stopper should read grid stopper.)

    The fx and speaker jack are not correct.

    The way it is wired NFB would not work on the speaker jack.

    The FX loop return would short out with a TS plug installed.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2021
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  6. D_Hallett

    D_Hallett TDPRI Member

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    Thanks for your reply @Lowerleftcoast

    For the speaker jack, should the wire going to NFB also connect to the lug that has the OT wire connected to it already?
    Also, in the diagram, the FX return has a TRS plug, not a TS plug. Shout it have a TS plug? I'm just going off the original diagram, which shows a TRS.
     
  7. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Friend of Leo's

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    Correct.
    I have seen many Cliff style TRS jacks in guitar amps where only the T and S are used. The switchcraft layout only shows the TS style jacks. If the Cliff diagram is just following the switchcraft layout, TS is all that is required. There are efx send/return circuits that use TRS plug/jacks. I would think most guitar amps would only be using TS because most pedals are TS. ???

    EDIT: The efx loop would need to include the ground connection to function.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2021
  8. Outlaws

    Outlaws Tele-Meister

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    TRS isn’t the same as a shunt. A lot of these fender switchcraft are not referencing a “s” sleeve from a TRS (as sleeve is ground, and already marked as ground) they are using a “s” for shunt/switch that either touches the tip or not based on the cable plugged in. The Cliff has that built in their TS as standard if I recall on most of the jacks for a Marshall built, which is why you have the two lugs for each.
     

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    Last edited: Jan 26, 2021
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  9. chas.wahl

    chas.wahl Tele-Meister

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    TS = tip & sleeve = mono
    TRS = tip, ring & sleeve = stereo (so long as the plug has a ring; if not, then also mono, but don't mix up the ring and sleeve)

    Switches (another confusing S) are another level of complication, and can be present on both ring and tip for a Switchcraft jack (but needn't be, such as on the venerable Switchcraft 12A, where only the tip is switched.
    In a Switchcraft jack, the threaded bushing is the sleeve contact. In any event the S in TS or TRS has nothing to do with switching.

    The "Cliff type" jacks are naturally isolated from chassis (unlike the Switchcraft, which isn't), so the Cliff have similar-looking contacts for S, R and T. They also appear to have switches for all 3(?) Dunno for sure, since I've never used them. They look more complicated, and perhaps less reliable to me (not having a great fondness for the use of plastic as a structural material, or as one in proximity to heat -- soldering, for instance). I admit that those may be unfounded prejudices, since a great many people use and swear by them, but I like products that don't have features one doesn't need, and are made as simply as possible.
     
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