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Help Needed - Flaky Old Paint Protection

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by bl28, Aug 27, 2020.

  1. bl28

    bl28 Tele-Meister

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    74E3967D-4418-4BBF-B187-1983F0CBB2DD.jpeg A5C353C6-670B-48D5-8715-97A92AE3EDC5.jpeg 657F88FC-64F3-44C4-B6E6-9BA9C6390709.jpeg

    So I picked up what appears to have been a table at some point from an alley near my house. The patina is fantastic. Think it was marine wood in a former life, as I found barnacle remnants.

    When I saw it, I decided it had to be a Tele.

    The paint is flaky.

    I’m looking to preserve the paint and color, so I was thinking a light clear coat of lacquer (spray can).

    I did a test piece, and it darkened the bare wood, darkened the paint, and almost seemed to accelerate the peeling process in spots, guessing because the lacquer got under the paint.

    Any experience or thoughts or ideas on how to preserve and stabilize the paint? And make it durable?

    Should I clean the wood/paint before applying anything, if so with what?

    I’ve never done anything with paint like this before, so any help is greatly appreciated.

    Thank you!
     
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  2. Jim_in_PA

    Jim_in_PA Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Consider that if those boards are beyond a certain age, that may be lead paint, so great care must be taken. Lacquer may also be incompatible with it chemically.
     
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  3. jvin248

    jvin248 Doctor of Teleocity

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    .

    You might want to flood the tops of the boards with 'Thin' CA adhesive (hobby lobby has about the best price).
    That is to soak under and around the existing finish and wick into any cracks to stabilize it.
    Then use two part catalyzed clear finish over the top.

    Test on scraps beforehand.

    There is a Billy Gibbons Tele with a barn wood top that I think they did by converting a photograph to print and then coating over that like the paisley guitars get made.

    .
     
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  4. Peegoo

    Peegoo Poster Extraordinaire

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    I'd build a dam around the sides with masking tape and pour in a thin layer of 2-part epoxy. This stuff:

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NLPCA5Y/?tag=tdpri-20

    Make sure your work surface is perfectly level before you pour.


    While it's still liquid, you can break all the surface bubbles by quickly passing a flame over the surface. Watch a few YT vids to learn how to do this. It's pretty simple.
     
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  5. fenderchamp

    fenderchamp Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    I love the flakey paint. you could certainly try to flood it under epoxy.

    A light coat of anything isn't going to do the job...that is some thick crusty stuff.

    I would take an offcut and just sand it it down and look at the patina underneath and see what you think...you'll have a certain amount of patina before you get to cleanish wood again. you of course wouldn't preserve the flakey paint that way. I find the way things like nails and dirt stain the wood and leave a patina below the immediate surface of the wood to be interesting as well. I don't like the idea of anything on a guitar that I might catch a splinter off of though... I also don't like thick layers of plastic good on my guitars...

    the photo paper idea, probably isn't the worst, but...yeah..it seems kind of inauthentic to me.

    In any case it's fun to work with reclaimed wood, and I'm looking forward to seeing what your tele*s turn out like.
     
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  6. Macrogats

    Macrogats Friend of Leo's

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    Dude, that is some seriously good looking guitar wood. Definitely Tele material for a totally rustic vibe.

    I have no advice on what to do, but please keep us posted on this, cos I wanna see the finished product!
     
  7. Jim_in_PA

    Jim_in_PA Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    THis was also my thought as it encapsulates the paint (necessary if there's any lead) and also mitigates the rough surface which is helpful if this instrument will be a "player". Top coating with a matte clear helps to retain the more rustic look, although it clearly (pardon the expression) will be smooth rather than rough.
     
  8. bl28

    bl28 Tele-Meister

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    2EB78156-F666-48D5-B457-3DBC3C290B6B.jpeg Thanks for the comments! Much appreciated. I thought about the epoxy, but that would result in too high of a shine and no texture. I want this to be rustic.

    I did another test piece, after a damp cloth wipe down. And it went well. So... I gave it a coat of lacquer. The paint seems stabilized. I can’t pick any off currently. It did darken the wood and paint a bit, but I still dig the look.

    I’m off to get some mahogany for the back. This top is 3/4” thick, and I’ll lose some when I plane it before glueing.

    I may grab something for a neck as well. I’ve got some low grade birdseye maple, but I’m thinking this would look nice with some flamed something or other dyed dark brown. Standard tele pups and controls, but no pickguard.

    Currently undecided on the finish on the back and sides. We’ll cross that bridge later.
     
  9. bl28

    bl28 Tele-Meister

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    Can anyone identify the wood?

    0E03B111-81B3-46ED-8020-959D2270D6B9.jpeg
     
  10. bl28

    bl28 Tele-Meister

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    So far, so good...

    F3DB2095-157E-4AEA-BCE5-011EDE994B79.jpeg
     
  11. yepyep

    yepyep TDPRI Member

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    I am guessing sugar pine or kin.
     
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  12. tubegeek

    tubegeek Friend of Leo's

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    Super cool, and behaving itself nicely as you work with it.
     
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  13. Macrogats

    Macrogats Friend of Leo's

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    Dude, that looks awesome. I know you’ve already put some light lacquer on it, but would some sort of sealer help with a few more satin lacquers over top?

    And as for your neck choices, fb wise I see it going nicely with a light maple. Not heavy amber finish though! This sort of look:-

    DE019AB3-0F39-48CF-8516-270BD8CAE5E4.jpeg
     
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  14. bl28

    bl28 Tele-Meister

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    the contrast is awesome! Love it.

    I bought a 9+ foot long curly maple board today, and started on the neck. There’s something about the look of a roasted curly maple neck I dig.

    The main issue is: this top is 1/2” thick. So I’ll be glueing it to another slab. I’m torn as to how to finish the rest of the body. I could paint the back/sides, but I’ll have an issue with the paint break at the top. Or I could stain/dye/oil the sides and back, but leave the seam visible. Or I could paint the back and sides and put a binding on the top to cover the changeover. Hmmm...
     
  15. Macrogats

    Macrogats Friend of Leo's

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    Hmmm.... 1/2 inch is too much for a binding look, so you’d have to plane the top down to 1/4 or 3/8ths?? - depending on the binding? - unless you make your own wood binding??

    My first question is what do the sides of the cut top look like?

    Here’s my latest build which I went for a total rustic look. Build thread is here.

    https://www.tdpri.com/threads/macrogats-2020-brotherhood-build-route-66-barbycaster.1015020/

    The top is from a plywood shield I purchased that was about 7mm thick. The body is made out of planed down pine pallet pieces I sandwiched together. I used a walnut stain on the back and sides to bring out the grain and features, then topped that with a light oak stain. You can see that I was not fussy about the sides, leaving natural nail holes, gouges and wood grooves to give it that rustic used look.

    The top was finished natural with a fine buffing oil which gave the natural pale pine ply a nice amber type look. I also used the same oil on the body and sides. The neck was made from Merbau and finished the same way.

    63B0C054-BC20-49D5-86D3-38F3B9C75F48.jpeg
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    D81B5598-DE0A-4E85-AD6B-D20A73661E99.jpeg

    I guess what I’m getting at is that if you can blend the tops edge with a nice definition to the sides, you’ll get a great looking finish. Using a nice satin lacquer over the whole thing for final finishing will not be a bad thing.

    I’d like to see your mahogany body blank, particularly the sides after some machining.

    Good luck and keep us posted. Either way - it’s gonna be a great looking guitar!

    I’ll just add that we have an old rustic door laying out the back that I’d LOVE to get my hands on for guitar bodies, but the missus just won’t have it! :lol:
     
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  16. Jim_in_PA

    Jim_in_PA Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    May be Tulip poplar...definitely "common boards".
     
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