Help needed...binding Spalt maple top

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by torodurham, Sep 12, 2019.

  1. torodurham

    torodurham Tele-Meister

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    I have two spalt maple drop tops I'm going to bind with 1/4" grained ivoroid cellulose .060 thick.
    I have no experience binding spalt maple and am expecting the binding channel will need to treated somehow prior to installing binding..? Can acetone be used as the adhesive with no prep...as I do all other binding installs?
    Any details from experienced installers would greatly be appreciated!
    Thanks! 20190908_200017.jpg
     
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  2. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Wow!!!!! and Wow!!!!!

    Beeeee U tifull !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Love the second one where the neck will go.....................looks like an old hound dog with something in his mouth!!!:)

    DC
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2019
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  3. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Just spotted another old hairy dog at the bottom of the same body!!! Just frame that one and hang on the wall ....it is art!

    Shame to cover them up with pickups and necks etc.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    DC
     
  4. Jim_in_PA

    Jim_in_PA Tele-Holic Ad Free Member

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    Those are two totally captivating tops! Wowsa!

    On your question, you'll want to insure that the edges are stable after you cut your rebate...in fact, I'd probably treat the edges before cutting the rebate, too, not just after. You can judge how much you have to pay attention to this based on what you need to do to to the face of those caps to get them where you are comfortable with the surface. You could use the same preparation, perhaps thinned a bit so it wicks, let it harden, lightly abrade it so you have a good surface to glue on your binding. I'm not familiar with using acetone directly as an adhesive for something like this, so others will have to comment on that.
     
  5. Meteorman

    Meteorman Tele-Holic

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    This is a good time for the old maxim “try it on a scrap cut-off piece first”....
     
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  6. torodurham

    torodurham Tele-Meister

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    Wise words...I was planning on that for sure
     
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  7. oldrebel

    oldrebel Friend of Leo's

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    Wow!! It would be nice if you would do a build thread so we could see the progress to the end.
     
  8. I_build_my_own

    I_build_my_own Friend of Leo's

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    Nice tops

    Route the channels. Then carefully pour the extra thin super glue on it with a syringe. Be careful it will run...

    I would do that to the entire top by the way. Put it 100% horizontal. Pour extra thin superglue in small batches on it. Slowly spread the super glue out with a razor blade (something that doesnt get dissolved with superglue. It will soak into the top and make it hard. Do it outside wear a mask and glasses and gloves - have some bottle of acetone close by in case your fingers get stuck somewhere. Below a top after the superglue treatment. And yes it will be a hell of sanding that superglue flat, but well worth it.

    I used acetone once for binding. It works ... With the stabilization (superglue treatment of the binding channel )you might want to look onto supergluing the binding too.

    83F99A9D-6E2F-4B04-B518-53D4FBF8A230.jpeg
     
  9. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    I haven't done a spalted top but each time I route the channels in soft wood like cedar or spruce I paint a coat of either shellac or thin CA on the edge to avoid blowout. I also also only use thin CA to glue binding on - I've had a failure with acetone and it is so much easier to fit the binding perfectly with no glue on it, then tack it in place with drops of CA, pull the tape and go back and run CA all around the seam.

    I use CA on both wood and plastic binding and have found that it doesn't seem to stand out under finish like some other glues do.

    It looks like you have already stablized your wood with epoxy or something - the advantage of the thin CA is it will soak into the wood itself where I think that epoxy mostly just fills voids. If you haven't already put epoxy on it you might consider a coat or two of Zpoxy cut with DA - it soaks into the wood like CA does, but it will also pop the color and figure. Like any finishing question I would certainly do a lot of testing on scrap.

    Stunning wood, by the way.
     
  10. Macrogats

    Macrogats Friend of Leo's

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    OMG. I wish we could get beautiful looking wood down my way like you guys do. :cry:

    Stunning stuff guys.
     
  11. Artslap

    Artslap Tele-Afflicted

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    I was watching a video of a guy using a tap and die to thread Oak.

    He coated the hole to be threaded with tung oil to prevent tear-out.

    It occurred to me that a similar thing could be done for figured pieces in guitar building.

    About 6:30 is where he explains the process. 8:20 where he threads a soaked dowel.



    CP.
     
  12. POS Guitars

    POS Guitars Tele-Meister

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    Your wood is lovely!

    It's been said - superglue. I would get a super gluesuch as the StewMac 10 (thin) or even 20 (medium) with a brush applicator. Acetone will stick after. If your superglue gets too thick, just scuff it a little.
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2019
  13. dented

    dented Poster Extraordinaire

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    That's beauty wood!
     
  14. dented

    dented Poster Extraordinaire

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    That's a beautiful piece also!
     
  15. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    One minor caution. I have become hyper sensitive to super glues and unfortunately I use them a lot. Consider wearing good breathing protection (I use my NIOSH respirator) and good ventilation.
     
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  16. Honza992

    Honza992 Tele-Meister

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    Another word of warning with spalted maple and CA glue. When I was testing out on scrap, I found that the CA glue turned the maple a terrible murky brown colour. It was clearly reacting with something in the wood. No amount of sanding would ever have rescued it because the thin CA glue gets wicked all through the top. So in the end I used something called UHU Hart, which is thick so isn't wicked. On another top I haven't had the problem of discoloration, so clearly it depends on the top itself. So test first.

    I would also advise you to rout the binding channel in many light passes. Tearout is a nightmare in soft wood.

    You also want to thoroughly test how strong the glue/wood combination is. My fear with a very soft 'airy' wood like spalted maple, is that pure acetone (which I' would normally use with plastic binding) would get wicked away so quickly that it would not provide a strong bond.

    They look great, good luck!
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2019
  17. torodurham

    torodurham Tele-Meister

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    Thank you all for many incite full tips and recommendations.. always look forward to as I progress as a builder and the support from this site is crucial.
    Cant agree more when it comes to sampling a procedure on scrap first..I always keep some as I go..just for these reasons.
    I have been using Zpoxy on tops to get the soft wood stable and level. I'll route channels on some scrap and see how it goes...
     
  18. torodurham

    torodurham Tele-Meister

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    Test 1
    No wood treatment prior to binding channel..no issues with tear out..2 stage rout..pretty confident channel rout will be ok...will treat with CA prior to gluing and see... 20190915_113801.jpg
     
  19. torodurham

    torodurham Tele-Meister

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    Binding installed...channels routed...no issues..zpoxy did its job.
    Treated channels with CA thin prior to binding...pre bent binding and installed with CA thin glue.
    Solid. 20190919_122822.jpg
     
  20. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

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    Those are Luscious. Really incredible guitars, dude.
     
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