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Help my bandsaw is out of wack

Discussion in 'The DIY Tool Shed' started by soggybag, Jul 4, 2019.

  1. soggybag

    soggybag Tele-Meister

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    One of the tires exploded on my bandsaw a couple weeks ago. I bought some new tires and installed them.

    Now the blade keeps falling off. I can't seem to get the adjustments right. What do I do?

    I have a really old Jet 14" saw. It looks like it came out of your shop class in the 60s.

    Currently the blade stays on when I turn the wheels by hand but it runs off the wheel when I turn the power on.

    I'm not sure I have the tension correct. It's hard to tell because the gauge on the bandsaw really doesn't have any markings that are helpful. You can barely read what's there.
     
  2. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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  3. soggybag

    soggybag Tele-Meister

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    Well that looks all too easy. I’ll have to give it a try tomorrow...
     
  4. yepyep

    yepyep TDPRI Member

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    You have to crown the tires in most cases to keep the blade riding on the high center, otherwise it will run off the wheels just like you describe. Owwm.org has many topics and even more methods to crown tires.
     
  5. jvin248

    jvin248 Poster Extraordinaire

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  6. soggybag

    soggybag Tele-Meister

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    I didn’t use any belt adhesive. The new tires are urethane. They seem to sit pretty tight.

    I’m sure the tension is too loose at the moment. I’ll try and adjust that first.

    I played with the tracking. When I adjust the upper wheel so the belt tracks in the center as I turn it by hand. The wheels seem way out of alignment when I check with a straight edge. Then the blade falls off when I start the machine. When I align the wheels parallel with the straight edge the blade tacks off to one side when I turn by hand.

    It’s all very frustrating and mysterious.
     
  7. SacDAve

    SacDAve Poster Extraordinaire

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    I watched that video somebody posted it hear. setting the deepest part of the blade gullet to the center of the wheel is against everything I've ever heard I gave it a try huge improvement.
     
  8. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Go with the Alex Snodgrass setup as per jvin's post above. It is the the only way I have found to get reliable repeatable performance from your bandsaw. It improved mine's performance tremendously!!!

    DC
     
  9. schmee

    schmee Doctor of Teleocity

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    There's an angle adjustment on the top wheel. I have never checked wheel alignment on my little ancient one, maybe that's a plus! But yeah, tension first.
     
  10. Vizcaster

    Vizcaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    It's ironic that the instructions on my bandsaw go into great length about how to make a special straight-edge jig to check that the wheels are "coplanar," but then doesn't tell you how to adjust it if it's out - i come to believe that it's such a non-issue that the manufacturers don't design an adjustment into it (other than shimming the lower wheel). Snodgrass does a good job of debunking the "coplanar" myth. If your blade tracks, it tracks. And yes, with the gullet centered it tends to be less finicky.

    There are good instructions on the Timberwolf site about how to set the tension, and it does not rely on the gauge. Essentially you tighten it quite a bit, then back off until the blade flutters (with the guide blocks/bearings totally backed away from the blade) and just snug it up a bit. Reminds me of trimming a sail so there's just a hint of "luff" (am I remembering that right?).

    I fitted a winch crank handle to the top knob on my bandsaw; makes it easier to loosen the blade five revolutions on the crank at the end of a work session and then tighten it back up the same number of turns before using it again and it's in the same tension position.

    Keep in mind I don't have a wealth of experience on this, I don't do much that would require anything bigger than the usual 1/4" blade, but this is what works for me.
     
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