Help:Input not working, effects return does!

schmee

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Just an FYI for terminology, that's not a "Switchcraft" jack. Those are often called Cliff Jacks, although Cliff is an actual company brand.
You can find a replacement though at AES (Antique Electronic Supply) if you want.
 

tacomamc

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Just an FYI for terminology, that's not a "Switchcraft" jack. Those are often called Cliff Jacks, although Cliff is an actual company brand.
You can find a replacement though at AES (Antique Electronic Supply) if you want.

Thank you, you mean the black one with plastic, right? The switchcraft are metal with fiber board layers between, right?
 

tubegeek

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And the switchcraft is preferred, for durability?

If the full set of switching options are used on the Cliff jack, you'll want to use the exact replacement. It's capable of switching all three contacts.

If the jack is intended to be isolated from the chassis, then you'll need an enlarged hole and a shoulder washer to install a switchcraft jack.

That said, I greatly prefer the switchcrafts but DON'T GET A CHEAP KNOCKOFF version! They're pretty bad. The real ones will be most durable if you can make it work with the circuit. Most likely you can.
 

tacomamc

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If the full set of switching options are used on the Cliff jack, you'll want to use the exact replacement. It's capable of switching all three contacts.

If the jack is intended to be isolated from the chassis, then you'll need an enlarged hole and a shoulder washer to install a switchcraft jack.

That said, I greatly prefer the switchcrafts but DON'T GET A CHEAP KNOCKOFF version! They're pretty bad. The real ones will be most durable if you can make it work with the circuit. Most likely you can.

Good to know, thanks again!
 

Lowerleftcoast

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From the pictures it appears the Cliff style jack was not mounted to the board. Problems and dis-favorable reviews usually stem from a board mounted jack because of the stress involved, breaking the solder joints.

It appears the jack does use one of the switch points. (The schematic shows none of the switch points are used.)
So you have a choice of using a Cliff style jack or a Switchcraft 12a. The original setup has a ground *ring washer thingy* (that's a technical term). The ring washer thingy is part of the ground scheme for the amp. So if you choose to use the cliff style jack, just wire it like the original.
If you want the Switchcraft 12a jack, we will have to work up a diagram for you to follow. It will not use fiber washers to isolate the jack.

OMMV, but I do not have a preference between the Cliff vs Switchcraft for this amp. Both are acceptable.
 

tacomamc

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From the pictures it appears the Cliff style jack was not mounted to the board. Problems and dis-favorable reviews usually stem from a board mounted jack because of the stress involved, breaking the solder joints.

It appears the jack does use one of the switch points. (The schematic shows none of the switch points are used.)
So you have a choice of using a Cliff style jack or a Switchcraft 12a. The original setup has a ground *ring washer thingy* (that's a technical term). The ring washer thingy is part of the ground scheme for the amp. So if you choose to use the cliff style jack, just wire it like the original.
If you want the Switchcraft 12a jack, we will have to work up a diagram for you to follow. It will not use fiber washers to isolate the jack.

OMMV, but I do not have a preference between the Cliff vs Switchcraft for this amp. Both are acceptable.

hey, this discussion has been most helpful and educational for me, so thank you! I’ll get another Cliff style jack just to keep it easier on myself, haha. I’ll order it and when it’s time to do the replacement, it should be pretty straight forward. Again, thanks to all who’ve participated.
 

tacomamc

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Just an FYI for terminology, that's not a "Switchcraft" jack. Those are often called Cliff Jacks, although Cliff is an actual company brand.
You can find a replacement though at AES (Antique Electronic Supply) if you want.

just now getting around to ordering the replacement jack. Do I want stereo or mono?
 

schmee

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just now getting around to ordering the replacement jack. Do I want stereo or mono?
Sorry, I dont know that amp, I would assume it's not stereo, but match up the one you have with the picture/specification drawing of what you are buying. The one you have has 6 solder tabs that solder to the board...?
 

radiocaster

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That said, I greatly prefer the switchcrafts but DON'T GET A CHEAP KNOCKOFF version! They're pretty bad. The real ones will be most durable if you can make it work with the circuit. Most likely you can.
I would get a cheap Switchcraft knockoff over a cheap Cliff knockoff any day.

I bought about 7 or 8 cheap Cliff style knockoffs locally from different shops, they weren't even all the same knockoff brand. None of them were fully functional in that all the switching would work, I tested them with a meter after several had problems after soldering them in circuits. If you don't use the switching most of them seemed to work, although certainly not all of them, not that I would consider putting them in actual circuits.
 

tacomamc

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I would get a cheap Switchcraft knockoff over a cheap Cliff knockoff any day.

I bought about 7 or 8 cheap Cliff style knockoffs locally from different shops, they weren't even all the same knockoff brand. None of them were fully functional in that all the switching would work, I tested them with a meter after several had problems after soldering them in circuits. If you don't use the switching most of them seemed to work, although certainly not all of them, not that I would consider putting them in actual circuits.

good to know, thank you! Would you be willing / able to draw up a diagram for me to wire a switchcraft?
 

radiocaster

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Or just buy an expensive style Cliff jack, and use a heat sunk when you solder it? The one in the pics is mono switching, chassis (not PC) mount.
 

gusfinley

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You can certainly use the spare you have to do a debug and get the amp potentially working.

Here's what going on with the input jack:

1) The normally closed (switching) part of the circuit is all tied together, so that when no guitar cable is plugged in you short the input to ground (no signal = no noise). The ground portion of the jack is also connected to the normally open grpund point to maintain the ground reference.

2) The normally open part of jack has a 1 Meg grid load resistor on it. The capacitors are no really necessary and probably there to meet EMI standards.

You can remove the middle tabs from your spare stereo switch or just don't wire anything to them. Once you fully seat a TS (mono) plug into a TRS (Stereo) jack, it just short the ring to ground anyway.

That should be a quick and dirty way to get it working perhaps.

This could also be a tube issue. Or perhaps the old jack is a bit dirty. You could perhps try cleaning it.
 




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