Help - How Long for Clear Coat?

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by Laren, Jul 30, 2021.

  1. Laren

    Laren Tele-Holic

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    Hi guys,

    How long do I have to leave rattle can clear coat to cure? Even though I'm only putting on 2 thin coats a day, drying over night before adding two more etc and then leaving for a couple of days it's still too soft. It's fine for wet and dry but when it comes to polishing, even though I've used paper towel under it, it leaves an impression. It's really annoying. How do I get this buffing/polishing clear to work?

    Many thanks.

    IMG_20210730_143219.jpg IMG_20210730_143224.jpg
     
  2. jfgesquire

    jfgesquire Friend of Leo's

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    What clear coat are you using? Nitro lacquer, acrylic lacquer, polyurethane, catalyzed polyurethane, enamel?

    What brand?

    Did you use any seal coat?
     
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  3. Laren

    Laren Tele-Holic

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    Hi. Yes, it had a couple of coats of shellac sanding sealer and the clear I used was
    Rust-Oleum AE0040001E8 400ml Crystal Clear Gloss

    Perhaps it just needs longer to cure.

    An aside, would you know if 2K (using 2 part with a gun) sets up faster?
     
  4. jfgesquire

    jfgesquire Friend of Leo's

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    It's tough to find information on paint sometimes, but my research indicates that it's an acrylic enamel?

    Enamel has always been tough to sand for me. It's like it's really tough to scratch because the sandpaper's grit is denting the surface. Rubbery and scratch resistant at the same time.

    I haven't used enamel in ages if my plan was to wet sand and polish out. I may finish coat with a glossy enamel, but then that's it.

    You may have to wait at least a week from your last coat.

    As for the 2K stuff that has the catalyst in the bottom of the can, you puncture it into the main part of the can then mix it, that is pretty awesome paint for a rock hard finish, and pretty dangerous from what I've read. The catalyst is not good if it gets in your lungs and the vapor particulates are smaller than even the best 3M filters. I'm not usually one to say stuff like this, but I think 2K really needs a respirator with it's own fresh air supply, along with eye covering, too.
     
  5. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Poster Extraordinaire

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    I have no experience with catalyzed finishes so I would read carefully what the manufacture says. I shoot mostly nitrocellulose lacquer and as a rule of thumb I let it dry for at least a week before doing any rub out, longer is better. Our resident finishing professional says that some lacquers (noteably Colortone) contains naphtha which slows the drying time which is why they recommend 10 - 14 days.

    Waiting doesn't hurt.
     
  6. stratisfied

    stratisfied Tele-Afflicted

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    By and large I have found using Rustoleum Enamels an invitation to a disappointment party. Between not hardening, adhesion issues, recoat issues (new coat wrinkling the old coat) I just avoid their products whenever I can. Even the trusty Duplicolor Lacquers have been reformulated since Rustoleum acquired the brand and no longer paint reliably.

    My advice is to get a can of lacquer thinner or acetone and remove it completely. A foolproof, easy finish over bare wood is Minwax Wipe-on Poly. You wet a paper towel with a few drops and wipe it on finishing with long strokes. Apply multiple coats and scuff with a scotchbrite pad between coats and your neck will look factory finished.
     
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  7. Timbresmith1

    Timbresmith1 Tele-Holic

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    It needs to cure. Hang it and forget it for 10 days - 2 weeks.
     
  8. stratisfied

    stratisfied Tele-Afflicted

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    Here's a quick vid I just now shot of me applying a coat of Wipe-On Poly to a gunstock in real time (2 min and 18 secs). It doesn't get much simpler than this.

     
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  9. Danb541

    Danb541 Friend of Leo's

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    Rattle can enamels are terrible IMHO. The paint takes a long time to harden. I always go with lacquer. Usually Dupl-icolor perfect match from auto body stores. I also quit wet sanding with water, I ran in to situations with the paint clouding even when I know everything was dry. Now I wet send with mineral spirits.
    To answer your question, it's going to take as long as it takes. Hang it up in your garage and smell it every couple days, do the fingernail test in a spot that will be covered. Just wait it out basically.
     
  10. old wrench

    old wrench Friend of Leo's

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    The 2K clear-coat stuff I've used definitely sets up (actually cures) much faster than Rustoleum.

    Rustoleum dries - 2K does dry to certain extent by solvent evaporation, but it also cures through a chemical action

    In warm weather, I was able to buff the 2K finish out as quickly as the next day when I felt like it, although it did continue to get harder and harder for a couple of days.

    If you use a 2K clear finish over a base coat like acrylic lacquer, or N.C. lacquer, or whatever, - you need to make sure the base coat is completely dried ;).

    With 2K coatings, you need to pay particular attention to follow the safety protocol.


    .
     
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  11. Old Deaf Roadie

    Old Deaf Roadie Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Some clears take forever & a day to cure. I have had good luck with Krylon clear, but avoid Deft.
     
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  12. Sea Devil

    Sea Devil Friend of Leo's

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    Hell no to Krylon of any kind. They changed the formula years ago, and it's no longer lacquer. Totally worthless, IMO.

    I suspect you could do many more coats of the Rustoleum in one day. In fact, I think the manufacturer's advice to do successive coats "a few minutes apart" is the way to go. Then you wait only once for all of it to dry.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2021
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  13. stratisfied

    stratisfied Tele-Afflicted

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    Krylon Clear is an acrylic enamel, general purpose hobby paint unless it specifically says Lacquer on the can. Deft is a fine finishing lacquer for woodwork.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2021
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  14. SacDAve

    SacDAve Poster Extraordinaire

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    Mohawk is great best rattle can I've used
    Screen Shot 2021-07-31 at 6.58.34 AM.png
     
  15. MTPoteet

    MTPoteet Tele-Meister

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    Is that over an oil based stain?
     
  16. Sea Devil

    Sea Devil Friend of Leo's

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    Mohawk products are the best I've found, too. I've used them pretty much exclusively for years.

    The same company makes Behlen Stringed Instrument Lacquer. It's not available in spray cans.

    It's too late for the OP to go back now without starting over. Maybe next time.
     
  17. stratisfied

    stratisfied Tele-Afflicted

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    Yup. Bear in mind that was coat #5 or 6 over laminated walnut material, walnut oil based stain. The intent was to show the final coat and how ridiculously simple it is to achieve a fine finish. You see how little I needed to scuff the surface of nibs and raised grain before finishing.

    The seal and build coats go the same way but after the third coat, I lightly sanded with 220 dry paper to knock the finish back and get it flat before applying the last 3 coats which were just like the vid. With an hour drying time between coats and no worries about runs, temperature and humidity, its a slam dunk finish.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2021
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  18. stratisfied

    stratisfied Tele-Afflicted

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    I agree. After getting consistently bad results ("cratering" from spitting cans and poor coverage) with Watco Lacquer a couple years back, I switched to Ultra Flo.

    It goes on smooth as glass. I've sprayed many necks that didn't even need to be wet sanded and buffed they were so smooth. I even use it for spot touchups on polyurethane as it leaves no edge or ring when sanded back and buffed.
     
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