Help buying used Deluxe Reverb

[marcflores]

Hey all. Hope I'm asking in the correct forum. I'm on the market for an amp, and I saw a used Deluxe Reverb (blackface) at Guitar Center for $799. I really want the newer '68 silverface for the shared reverb between the two channels (and the Bassman tone stack in the first channel), but this seemed like a good deal. It is in immaculate condition. It pretty much looks brand new.

Are there things I should look for specifically to see if anything is damaged or worn? I've never bought a used amp and I've never owned a tube amp besides the one I got from my dad years ago, which was a 70-watt Music Man head and a 4x12. I definitely don't need that.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[budglo]

Tubes first off and make sure the reverb and tremolo works . Make sure the pots work and aren’t scratchy. How does it sound with nothing plugged into it? Does it hum?

 

[telepraise]

How old is it? At that price you're looking at a reissue, they run around $1100 new depending on what speaker is in them. I have a blackface '65 DRRI and love it. I think some guys have clipped the bright cap on the reverb/trem channel and there's probably a mod for sharing the reverb. I actually use a HOF reverb pedal most of the time anyway because I like the extra control it gives me. It's a sweet amp, plenty loud.

 

[Recce]

It is a good price on something that is kind of like what you want but not exactly. So is that really a good deal? Will you continually go I wish I would have waited? Your call.

 

[schmee]

It's a decent price, I assume it's a Reissue. Not a great price, but they do seem to be holding their value better now. I've paid $350 for an "as new" one with switch and cover, but those days are gone I guess.
The 68 drip edge has more gain , are you sure you want that in a 22 watt amp? Guitar Center has some good deals but by the time they add tax and shipping sometimes it's not. They are higher shipping than Reverb. and Ebay sometimes. They used to ship to your local store free. They also dont know what the hell they are doing... so be careful. Can you test it or is it online? Test for scratchy pots, crackles, pop and etc. These things can be more than tubes.

I bought a small fender amp on line from GC about 10 days ago. I thought it was arriving weds. It didnt.
- I checked my order and it said "order cancelled". No notice, no anything. I called asking what's up.
-They said it was tested and not working properly. I told them it was advertised as not working properly!
-They sent me to another guy. After having to start all over with him I told him I'd give him less $ for it. He negotiated (not enough) but I said "OK".
-Then he sent me back to the first guy. I had to fill him in again.
-He asked how I wanted to pay for it. I told him they already had the money from Paypal payment before and he actually needed to refund some. He put me on hold.
-Finally another answered and asked how he could help me. I told him the situation. He said he'd get the first guy again.
-Then he came back and said "it looks like "so and so" is out of the building now.
-I effing hung up!

It's no wonder at all that GC is often in bankruptcy, I look forward to the day they are gone completely!

 

[1300 E Valencia]

If it's a recent build, it'll have a green frame Jensen C12K speaker. On the edge of the frame is a number like this:
"XXXYYZZ"
The first three digits will be "220". This just means it's made by Jensen.
The "YY" is the year of manufacture. "15" would mean the speaker was made in 2015.
"ZZ" is the week of the year of manufacture. "46" would mean the 46th week of the year 2015. Google it if this really matters.
This should give a close ballpark figure for how old the amp is.
Newer DRRIs (Deluxe Reverb Re-Issues) will have rubber covers over the power and standby switches on the rear panel.
Newer DRRIs will have a metal "cage" around the power and rectifier tubes. You should also make sure the six small, pre-amp tubes have a metal tubular shield cover as well. All six of them. Missing tube shields should be replaced.

With nothing plugged in, or at least with the guitar volume off, I'd let the amp warm up on standby for a minute, then switch it on.
Slowly turn up the controls on the Normal channel until they're all the way up. Take note of the noise, and if squealing feedback starts (again, with no instrument playing), feel free to back off the channel volume.

Do this for both channels. The Reverb control may be quite sensitive to squealing. Make sure you get the Foot Switch. The Tremolo will only work with the Foot Switch. With the channel volume raised, you can hear the Tremolo “throb”. You can tap on each tube with a pencil (not a screwdriver or anything metallic) to listen to each tube.

Increased noise levels for all this are not unusual, especially with all the knobs above five, but still shouldn’t be obnoxious. All tube amps make these kinds of background noises. We are trying to determine just how much background noise is coming from the tubes, and if the individual tubes are subject to microphonic feedback caused by vibrations coming from the amp and speaker.
This can indicate how much the amp has been thrown around or dropped.

If you can play loudly, hit a low E-string, and let the note ring out and decay without muting it. As the note fades away, do you hear a “furry” sound coming from the speaker. Not a hum or hiss, but a “furry” tone that dies out along side the note? That’s the sound of a voice coil rub, and it means the speaker has been abused with lots of high volume playing.

 

[backporchmusic]

It might be worth it to wait until a used 68 Deluxe comes available, if you prefer that feature set. With the size of the Bay Area, you might not have to wait for long. But basically, turn it on, play it at a variety of volumes and settings.

If all is well, buy it knowing that GC has a 45 day return policy. If you are not satisfied for any reason, you can return it, it doesn't need to be defective. By then you should know if you got a lemon.

No need to listen to whinging 'customers,' they are doing fine as a company. I have always been treated with respect at GC, but then again, I treat retail workers with respect, so maybe that helps.


https://www.rollingstone.com/music/...pice-now-its-growing-faster-than-ever-751787/

 

[jguitarman]

To the original poster: I see you're in SF. I'm nearby and see used Deluxe Reverbs on Craigslist often priced around $750. I sold one in real good condition on eBay for $650 and I think if you shop off CL you could negotiate a seller down close to $650.
$799. at GC is high but they are a retail seller; not wholesale.
BTW, I think a DR is a great choice assuming you will use it to play with a band. Probably too much amp for strictly bedroom use.

 

[marcflores]

Whoa, that is a lot more help than I thought I'd get! Thanks guys. And 1300, thanks for all the numbers to look for and details for testing. I greatly appreciate the feedback from everyone.

It is definitely a reissue and not an original. I can go back to GC this weekend and inspect it for everything everyone mentioned. I wouldn't have thought of turning all the knobs and checking for noise. I can probably talk them down in price if I offer cash and see what happens. Maybe they'll get closer to the $650-700 mark like jguitarman suggested. Otherwise, I may continue to search the SF Bay Area used market for the silverface.

I'm going to use it to gig. It was between that and a Hot Rod Deluxe, but someone told me the Deluxe Reverbs are better and sound better. I guess that's subjective, but I'm not picky so I am going with that friend's advice.

 

[nojazzhere]

Whoa, that is a lot more help than I thought I'd get! Thanks guys. And 1300, thanks for all the numbers to look for and details for testing. I greatly appreciate the feedback from everyone.

It is definitely a reissue and not an original. I can go back to GC this weekend and inspect it for everything everyone mentioned. I wouldn't have thought of turning all the knobs and checking for noise. I can probably talk them down in price if I offer cash and see what happens. Maybe they'll get closer to the $650-700 mark like jguitarman suggested. Otherwise, I may continue to search the SF Bay Area used market for the silverface.

I'm going to use it to gig. It was between that and a Hot Rod Deluxe, but someone told me the Deluxe Reverbs are better and sound better. I guess that's subjective, but I'm not picky so I am going with that friend's advice.

IMHO, a Deluxe Reverb is probably the most perfect single amp ever made. I still kick myself daily for selling a non original (changed speaker, replaced cabinet) 1967 Blackface DR, as well as a 1963 non-reverb Blackface Deluxe. Finances required, unfortunately.

 

[Festus_Hagen]

IMHO, a Deluxe Reverb is probably the most perfect single amp ever made. I still kick myself daily for selling a non original (changed speaker, replaced cabinet) 1967 Blackface DR, as well as a 1963 non-reverb Blackface Deluxe. Finances required, unfortunately.

I would have to second this. I have or have had most of them, and besides the Princeton (for home use, it's only 12 watts) my DR gets played the most. I don't gig out, but it would be plenty loud to do so. I've cranked mine to ~ 8-9 in the living room, but didn't wanna do it for long.

 

[RadioFM74]

.... and FWIW, whatever the feature set I think that the 65 is on average a better-sounding amp than the 68, by quite a long shot. Better components, less hiss and hum...

The ideal for you would be to compare them side by side... should not be too difficult as they're not rare amps.

PS: like your friend I think Deluxe Reverbs sound one hell of a lot better than Hot Rods, and they are fantastic. Plus just the right wattage for most situations. Too bright for some, but that's an easy peasy mod

 

[Tonetele]

It might be worth it to wait until a used 68 Deluxe comes available, if you prefer that feature set. With the size of the Bay Area, you might not have to wait for long. But basically, turn it on, play it at a variety of volumes and settings.

Sensible advice. I have a '65 Blackface PRRI and wish I'd bought the DRRI for a couple of hundred more.

 

[budglo]

I have always had a Deluxe Reverb in my stable for about 10 years now. The 65 reissues are great amps. I have the wine red version with the P12Q in it. I also like putting JJ tubes in them. Currently I have 6v6S power tubes and love the tone. I think you will be quite happy with the DRRI IMO.

 

[gitarjoe]

If you have your heart set on one amp, don't settle. wait for the one you want.

 

[Wally]

Hey all. Hope I'm asking in the correct forum. I'm on the market for an amp, and I saw a used Deluxe Reverb (blackface) at Guitar Center for $799. I really want the newer '68 silverface for the shared reverb between the two channels (and the Bassman tone stack in the first channel), but this seemed like a good deal. It is in immaculate condition. It pretty much looks brand new.

Are there things I should look for specifically to see if anything is damaged or worn? I've never bought a used amp and I've never owned a tube amp besides the one I got from my dad years ago, which was a 70-watt Music Man head and a 4x12. I definitely don't need that.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Marc, a good tech can take that BF DRRI and turn the Normal channel into something that is much more of what Fender claims to be achieving in the 68 Custom SFDR. Despite the hype, they did not create a ‘Bassman Tone stack’ there. The tone stack is identical to the BFDR tone stack but for the addition of one resistor. Much greater changes for more gain and a tone stack going into that midrangey tweed sound...with effects on both channels.

 

[scelestus]

It is a good price on something that is kind of like what you want but not exactly. So is that really a good deal? Will you continually go I wish I would have waited? Your call.

If you want the '68, wait for the'68.

A good friend once said, "You almost never regret not buying something."

 

[elihu]

IMHO, a Deluxe Reverb is probably the most perfect single amp ever made. I still kick myself daily for selling a non original (changed speaker, replaced cabinet) 1967 Blackface DR, as well as a 1963 non-reverb Blackface Deluxe. Finances required, unfortunately.

I too had a DR that had to be sold. And it was a 68 drip edge...miss that amp. But I wanted to throw out an idea from left field. What about a 60's Ampeg Gemini 1? They are damn close to the same wattage as a DR with arguably better reverb and tremolo and you can get an original one for about the price of a DRRI. It might be worth checking out.

 

[Silverface]

Are there things I should look for specifically to see if anything is damaged or worn?

I'm going to use it to gig. It was between that and a Hot Rod Deluxe, but someone told me the Deluxe Reverbs are better and sound better.

A few things to be aware of if you're new to tube amps:

But first - remember this - around 90% of players NEVER visit forums like this and don't know a thing about proper amp maintenance - because manufacturers DO NOT specify it in the instruction manuals! They assume amps will be sold before the warranty is up and it's not their problem. So very, very few players are aware of these things!

1. ALL newly purchased USED tube amps - even if just a few years old - should go to a tech for a checkup. You have NO idea what condition it's in electronically.

Virtually every used fixed-bias amp (a type of electronic design - and the Deluxe Reverb is one) I see needs the power tube bias adjusted for best tone and/or the power tubes are WAY out of balance and need replacement - and every time they are replaced the bias needs to be checked and usually adjusted (weirdly, "fixed bias" means it can...and needs to be...adjusted any time new or different brand/model tubes are installed. It's a very inexpensive job.

2. Never gig without a backup amp. Not necessarily because the amp is a bad amp, but tubes are made of glass and are fragile. Rough handling by others can cause problems. Tubes can fall out. Mic stands can get knocked around and break tubes! As a player and tech I have seen just about everything - and everything DOES happen sooner of later - maybe not to you, but have a backup on hand.

3. ALWAYS carry spare fuses, a pair of spare power tubes, and one of each type of preamp tube. And a flashlight. Tape spare fuses to the inside of the cabinet.

4. ALL tube amps need periodic service. Preamp tubes can last for 10+ years; power tubes 5-10 years unless they are either REALLY cheap or always pushed to the limit. Electrolytic filter and bias capacitors have a service life of roughly 15 years (the ones in reissues are generally NOT the same quality as used in the originals, which were good for 15-20 years).

They MUST be replaced! When they get old they can fail without warning, and a blown power filter can seriously damage the amp. Find out how old it is, and when it hits 15 take it to a qualified tech and request replacement of the filter and bias caps. You HAVE to ask - not all techs automatically do this stuff but it's critical to the life of the amp.

5. If an amp is over 10-15 years old I suggest asking if you can have it checked out by a tech BEFORE purchase. While it's less likely that a reissue amp will be "hacked" (badly modified and requiring restoration) it's not uncommon with older amps. And as previously noted, most older amps have not been properly serviced.

You can't tell much about the "condition" of any tube amp by looking at the outside. Many of the most beaten-up amps physically are the ones that have been electronically well-maintained - and many "pretty" amps, especially older ones, have NEVER been properly serviced!

You might want to print this and take it with you to the tech.

Hope this is helpful.

 

[ReverendRevolver]

I would have to second this. I have or have had most of them, and besides the Princeton (for home use, it's only 12 watts) my DR gets played the most. I don't gig out, but it would be plenty loud to do so. I've cranked mine to ~ 8-9 in the living room, but didn't wanna do it for long.

I prefer the controlabolity of just mic'ing a Princeton, but the bigger reverb tank in the deluxe sounds better.

These reissues are the best current production amps of thier size and feature range there are in the sub $1k range (you can always get a custom hand made DRish based amp from Dr.Z or whoever, but lose tons of money more than these cost in the process)

If you want the true fender sounds of a Deluxe, the DRRI, as 2 people prior stated, is IT. Not much point in a HRdlx if you want that sound. Want a non-linear volume pot and specifically want the HR gain channel, then HR makes sense. Not here.
Since the creation of the Supro Blues King, theres no real reason to buy a blues jr anymore.(unless you are going for a matching set of FSR finishes on a Jr, prri, drri for decorating....)

If you're in the SF bay area, you'll see local pickup reverb listings and ebay listings. Use this to your advantage negotiating at GC. I flat told them when I bought the Peavey C30 (that I returned) that I liked it but I couldn't justify the price they asked, because even in mint shape with the footswitch, $400 was my ceiling used, since I could but them all day used for that in that condition, with shipping comparable to sales tax. He walked away and came back (after googling?) Agreeing to $400 before tax.
I also basically got my teles strap for free when buying a 68 bassman years back, with it essentially eating the cost of taxes.

Negotiate them down. Use wanting the sf model more to your advantage with the insinuation that thier price is what youd pay for what you want, but not what they got.

FWIW, Reverb listings of the '68 you want run $680-$755, and it wont show me the price guide on the '65, but the listings run around $755-$800, and have offer options.

Good luck, enjoy when you get it!