eddiewagner
Poster Extraordinaire
Hello, I try to do that all the time. It works on most guitars.
I would change the pots if they don't give you the taper you desire. The stock pots are the small, dime-sized pots and are not true audio taper, so the roll-off is at the lower end of the dial. I prefer the audio taper for swells and quicker roll-off. Affinity pickups are ceramic. Alnico are fine. Ceramic pups tend to be more edgy, but that can be dialed in by adjusting the pickup height and using your tone control. I like them both.Interested in what you're going to do there fretknot, I've some Classic Vibe pickups from the next Squier model up from the Affinity, I believe they are Alcino while the Affinity I think are Ceramic? I wonder if I need to change the pots?
Doug
90% of the guitars I've bought to mod and re-sell are neglected for that very reason. Many still have the plastic film on the pickguard and neck plate. A proper setup takes less than an hour in most cases, sometime longer if the frets need attention, yielding a playable guitar. I started playing in the 1960s, when cheap guitars were barely playable no matter what you did to them. We're living in some great times for inexpensive, yet decent quality instruments. CNC production has taken things to another level.Who knows how many guitars have been returned or left in a closet for want of nothing more than a setup.
So true. For those of us who remember the guitar scene of the seventies and eighties, the availability of affordable and excellent guitars today is astonishing. We're spoiled, really. My $400 EART 335 came already set up precisely to Gibson specs, is a superb instrument. I have no intention of "upgrading" it. But knowing how to set up a guitar and perform some essential luthier tasks opens up the market for us even more.90% of the guitars I've bought to mod and re-sell are neglected for that very reason. Many still have the plastic film on the pickguard and neck plate. A proper setup takes less than an hour in most cases, sometime longer if the frets need attention, yielding a playable guitar. I started playing in the 1960s, when cheap guitars were barely playable no matter what you did to them. We're living in some great times for inexpensive, yet decent quality instruments. CNC production has taken things to another level.
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Regularly!
Many of the new Indonesian Squiers and the Harley Benton/Glarry/Eart/etc brands have actually figured out if they do top-end fretwork that starting guitar players learn how to play guitar and then move up the price market buying more and more gear. They are competing against video games that have an easy first level and harder tenth level, old guitar days gave the kids a tenth level hard guitar to play and they soon quit, while the pro players bought the guitars that were easy first level playability. Look up the Glarry brand as they were selling Strat-like guitars for $75 including shipping on Amazon and getting great reviews.
Note: Squiers tend to have skinny necks and bodies while the clones copy Fender MIA neck carves and body thicknesses. I like chunky necks so I stopped messing with Squiers. Perhaps Squier can have two neck carve styles and mark them clearly to see in photographs on retailers and used market.
When buying cheap beaters off Craigslist/FB-MP/Pawn Shops, fix the obvious problems like broken parts but these are the only worthwhile upgrades you should pursue, the rest are wastes of time and money:
-Fretlevel/crown/polish (if needed, some are ok like noted above). Do the fret level with the neck under string tension (either actual strings or simulated). A regular fret level like you'll see on youtube improves a typical guitar from below average 'D' or average 'C' to 'B+' playability (which is a huge improvement). To get to 'A' you need the neck in tension. That's how the PLEK works, how the Stew Mac neck tension jig works, the Vinson neck tension jig works (that's what I use), and how the Sam Deeks 'banana' method works.
-Full setup including nut adjustments
-Set pickup heights by ear, not some factory spec.
-Swap Pots/Switches/Jack with the same branded parts as used in MIA guitars. Better feel, durability, reliability and fairly inexpensive.
-Push guitar tone around with pickup height/pickup bass or treble tip/screw pole adjustments and then measure and swap pots and caps. You don't need pickup swaps unless you want to change pickup type like single coil to humbucker.
-Deck the trems. They are just distraction devices to playing (either doing massive dive bombs to see where tuning goes out or searching why tuning goes out). Just play.
-Learn to string a guitar by bringing the string up from the bridge, wrapping 3-4 times on the post, thread the hole, tug tight. You are only a few twists from tuning up, just like those folks with locking tuners.
-Only 'tune up' a guitar, if you blow by pitch then drop a half note lower and 'tune up'. If you try to hit the pitch on the way back down you put slack in the system that comes out with the first strum and you complain the nut/tuners/saddles are at fault and players start swapping parts then toss the guitar. Tuning stability problems are always the nut or the nut tuning the guitar.
No pickup swaps to 'upgrade!', no bridge swaps, no tuner swaps.
The Frudua channel has good setup walk throughs, example here.
Last item: 'Upgraded!' cheap guitars sell the same or even less than factory working guitars (some players put expensive pickups in cheap guitars and those brands of pickups other players don't like so it's a down grade). Doing a full fret level on a cheap guitar hoping to sell it for more, while it plays well and easy, a buyer doesn't care and you won't 'get your money back'. They just see a Squier model X that sells all day long for $100 with or without your mods. Any new parts you put in a guitar are used parts when you sell them, so those $100 pickups are only worth $50 in the guitar or separate from the guitar. Often it's best to keep the original wiring harness and pickups so when you sell the guitar you pull your custom parts and put it back to factory.
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Yes - - rarely have I found that a great setup is wasted, even on an entry-level guitar.Thanks everyone for sharing. I should clarify that I’ve been playing guitar forever, have a gaggle of great guitars and have also been doing my own setups forever. But not on the more recent inexpensive guitars. I also have three under-three children who would be great at professional guitar relic-ing, so I’m looking to add a non-precious couch guitar. (And, I know I could also buy an already reliced guitar - but why pay for that when I have that talent in-house!)
Thanks everyone for sharing. I should clarify that I’ve been playing guitar forever, have a gaggle of great guitars and have also been doing my own setups forever. But not on the more recent inexpensive guitars. I also have three under-three children who would be great at professional guitar relic-ing, so I’m looking to add a non-precious couch guitar. (And, I know I could also buy an already reliced guitar - but why pay for that when I have that talent in-house!)
I do a great setup on every guitar I work on, what's the point of doing a bad setup? I wrote a little article about how to do itHas anyone here set up an inexpensive guitar to play great, as a practice guitar? I’m thinking of getting a non-precious solid body guitar (the guitars I see listed for $150-$200, new or used) just for a couch guitar - where I wouldn’t bring my good guitars - to grab it whenever. But only if I can set it up to play as well as some good guitars. No critical need to plug it in, that would happen rarely. And I can spend time setting it up, just curious about other people’s experience doing this, if there’s anything about those inexpensive guitars that would defeat the purpose.
How many have set-up POORLY an expensive guitar seems to be more relevant!Has anyone here set up an inexpensive guitar to play great, as a practice guitar? I’m thinking of getting a non-precious solid body guitar (the guitars I see listed for $150-$200, new or used) just for a couch guitar - where I wouldn’t bring my good guitars - to grab it whenever. But only if I can set it up to play as well as some good guitars. No critical need to plug it in, that would happen rarely. And I can spend time setting it up, just curious about other people’s experience doing this, if there’s anything about those inexpensive guitars that would defeat the purpose.
what's the point of doing a bad setup?